28 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS 1.41, (13) 2.43, 0.34, 4.66, 10.47, 6.48, 6.41, 15.87, 13.32, 8.29, 11.51, 6.84, 2.27, 2.89, 5.28, 1.33, 1.58, (14) 2.14, 0.22, 4.66, 11.56, 6.26, 5.81, 17.36, 13.42, 7.00, 11.58, 7.03, 2.06, 2.85, 5.05, 1.53, 1.46, (15) 2.72, 0.64, 5.93, 11.78, 6.05, 7.94, 11.61, 14.14, 7 (16) 3.12, 1.01, 6.45, 10.67, 7.05 2.72, 8.36, 3.22, 2.52, (17) 2.84, 6.93, 6.95, 5.68, 6.22, 3.65, 7.97, 6.09, 9.12, 12.65, 6.48, 6.91, 6.00 .91, 7.40, 5.25, 5.67, 2.99, 6.83, 1.32, 1.81, , 6.14, 11.38, 13.70, 5.94, 7.95, 5.54, 4.23, 0.74, 7.51, 10.06, 6.79, 6.34, 10.36, 12.73, 2.64, 2.58, (18) 3.21, 0.79, 7.20, 10.36, 7.15, , 6.18, 3.57, 8.55, 2.88, 2.85, (19)2.84, 0.85 6.79, 11.55, 5.96, 6.13, 11.05, 10.95, 6.43, 9.56, 5.12, 5.39, 2.87, 7.31, 4.48 2.70, (20) 3.07, 0.94, 6.85, 10.61, 6.40, 6.53, 10.30, 11.98, 5.96, 8.65, 5.36 5.55, 3.14, 7.72, 3.99, 2.93, (21) 2.72, 0.81, 7.06, 10.18, 6.55, 6.15, 10.48 12.90, 6.55, 8.27, 5.34, 5.65, 3.23, 7.56, 3.83, 2.72, (22) 2.33, 0.70, 7.28, 11.41 6.09, 6.62, 10.41, 12.34, 7.66, 8.32, 5.05, 5.12, 2.83, 7.05, 4.27, 2.52, (23) 2.84 0.80, 7.12, 10.70, 6.49, 6.31, 10.29, 12.26, 6.67, 8.11, 5.42, 5.68, 3.22, 7.69 3.68, 2.72, (24) 2.81, 0.70, 6.83, 10.34, 6.73, 6.12, 10.24, 12.15, 6.32, 8.63 5.62, 5.72, 3.21, 8.43, 3.41, 2.71, (25)2.31, 0.70, 6.53, 12.95, 6.32, 7.03, 10.54, 12.65, 7.03, 7.53, 5.42, 5.72, 3.31, 7.33, 2.41, 2.21, (26) 2.65, 0.88, 6.79, 12.49, 6.10 6.45, 10.80, 12.48, 7.11, 8.15, 5.29, 5.37, 2.98, 7.04, 2.98, 2.44, (27) 3.48 7.42 9.76 6.36 3.99 2.27 1.23, 5.90, 12.09, 7.08, 5.73, 9.41, 13.01, 6.67, 8.61, 5.85, 5.21, 3.06, 3.12, 2.15, (28) 2.88, 0.82, 5.85, 15.28, 5.52, 5.63, 9.35, 10.92, 8.71, 5.40, 5.62, 2.06, 6.45, 3.25, 2.49, (29).91, 2.12, 2.93, 13.22, 5.55, 3.53, 3.53, 10.29, 27.85, 5.25, 4.84, 2.52, 2.62, 5.65, 2.83, (30) 0.70, 0.39, 7.15, 5.53, 4.13, 14.92, 6.17, 9.90, 13.27, 8.30, 7.47, 3.11, 9.09, 3.61. (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (lO) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) REFERENCES D. R. Goddard and L. Michaelis, A study on keratin, J. Biol, Chem., 106, 605-614 (1934). D. R. Goddard and L. Michaelis, Derivatives of keratin, J. Biol. Chem., 112, 361-371 (1935). W. G. Crewther, Primary structure and chemical properties of wool, Proc. 5th Int. Wool Textile Res, Conf., Aachen, 1975, Vol. 1, pp 1-101. M. Feughelman, A two-phase structure for keratin fibers, Textile Res. J., 29, 223-228 (1959). M. Feughelman, The physical properties of alpha-keratin fibers, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 33, 385-406 (1982). E. Menefee, A mechanical model for wool, Textile Res. J., 38, 1149-1163 (1968). E. Menefee, Relation of keratin structure to its mechanical behavior, Appl. Polymer Symp., 18, 809- 821 (1971). M. Spei and H. Zahn, Low angle x-ray investigations of extended keratin fibers, Monatsh. Chem., 102, 1163-1181 (1971). M. Spei, Small angle x-ray studies of an ordered matrix in alpha-keratin, KolloidZ.-Z. Polymere. 250, 214-221 (1972). M. Spei, X-ray studies on the microfibril-matrix complex, Proc. 6th Int. Wool Textile Res. Conf, Pretoria, 1980, Vol. 2, pp 263-272. G. Heidemann and H. Halboth, Fibrillar swelling of alpha-keratin, Textile Res. J., 40, 861-862 (1970). M. Spei and H. Zahn, X-ray small-angle examination of swollen fiber keratins, Melhand Textilber., 60, 523-525 (1979). R. D. B. Fraser, T. P. MacRae, G. R. Millward, D. A. D. Parry, E. Suzuki, and P. A. Tulloch, The molecular structure of keratins, Appl. Polymer Symp., 18, 65-83 (1971). E. Menefee and S. J. Tillin, Determination of crosslink density by end group analysis after partial degradation: 2. Experimental application to keratin, Polymer, 22, 1219-1222 (1981). E. Menefee, "Physical and Chemical Consequences of Keratin Crosslinking, With Application to the
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