472 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS lipid stratum corneum disruption, 21 plasticization collagen, 163 stratum corneum membrane lipid removal, 295 sunscreen chemical, 193, efficacy, 209 Sorbitan monostearate HLB-value determination copolymer synthesis, 419 Spectrophotometer measurement atmospheric levels of NO 2, 29 Spectroscopic technique electron spin resonance, 1 Spectrum alkyldimethylamine oxides, 43 di-t-butylnitroxide in ethanol ESR spectra, 1 hair coloring bleaching, 179 hair elements, 233 infrared absorption linalool decomposition, 385 siloxane deposition on keratins, 247 skin polymers and lipids, 295 ultraviolet absorption sunscreen chemicals, 209 Spreadability skin care products, 443 Stability cosmetic products shampoo preservative, 307 hair extensional properties, 125 permanent waving, 125 synthesized copolymers emulsifiers, 419 water-in-oil-in-water multiple emulsions, 353 Staphylococcus aureus death rate shampoo preservative stability, 307 test organism interaction of cosmetic pigments with preservatives, 83 bacteria growth efficacy of triclosan, 223 toothpaste, 435 Static coefficient hair friction, 263 relaxation tests rubber deformation, 125 Stearalkonium chloride rinse solution comparisoti of alkyldimethylamine oxides, 43 Stearic acid barrier cream component skin conductivity, 63 n-nitrosodiethanolamine formation, 29 Stearyldimethylamine oxide physical properties (see didecymethylamine oxide), 43 Stick-slip profile frictional properties viscoelastic fibers, 371 Strain keratin fibers mechanical properties, 263 Stratum corneum aluminum complex sweat gland inhibition, 109 barrier function, 397 biophysical properties, 171 disruption, 21 electrical resistance effect of sodium lauryl sulfate, 63 keratinized living skin equivalent, 141 membranes polymer and lipid adsorption, 295 turnover time dansyl chloride fluorescence, 321 Stress depilatory activity thermomechanical analyzer, 287 fluidity in semisolid systems, 1 hair extension, 125, fiber charge density, 341 strain methods mechanical properties of keratin fibers, 263 Stretching hair fiber depilatory activity, 287 Structure hair damage, 263 sunscreen chemicals shifts in absorbance, 209 Substantivity conditioning polymers on hair substrate, 233 humectants, 353 Substituents effect on sunscreen materials, 193 Substrate hair substantivity of conditioning polymers, 233 Sulfacetamide antimicrobial activity mouthwash, 435 Sulfonate hair adsorption, 233 Sulfur acid group disulfide band scission, 359 hair fiber spectra polymers, 233 spectrum untreated skin, 295 Sulisobenzone sunscreen chemical, 193, absorbance, 209 Sulphur stratum corneum turnover time, 321 Sunburn cell formation effect of bergamot oil, 11 Sunlight exposure effects on skin, 193, protective value of bergamot oil, 11 microrelief periorbital and leg skin, 145 Sunscreens, 193, formulation, 11, solvent efficacy, 209 Supercontraction solvents hair damage, 263 Surface hair fiber properties triboelectric charging, 341 modification, 263 topical conditioning agents, 233 keratin fiber siloxane deposition, 247 morphology acid/chlorination, 371, wool/ chlorine reaction, 359 skin microrelief, 145 stratum corneum adsorption lipids, 295 tension measurements copolymer synthesis, 419 Surfactant anionic alkyldimethylamine oxide reaction, 43 concentration shampoo preservative testing, 307 effects on corneocyte adhesion (see solution), 21 hair surface charge generation, 341 in cosmetics interaction with preservatives, 83 nonionic emulsifier, 419, simulated

SUBJECT INDEX 473 shampooing, 233 stratum corneum membrane lipid removal, 295 surfadone, 353 Surgery facial, 141 Sweat glands aluminum chlorohydrate application, 109 Swelling hair, 287, liquid retention technique, 263 Tactile depilatory activity testing humans, 287 Talc cosmetic pigments bactericidal effects on preservatives, 83 degradation of linalool, 385 Tangle control hair comparison of alkyldimethylamine oxide solutions, 43 Tanning sunscreens bergamot oil, 11 Taste, 141 T-butyl alcohol decomposition linalool decomposition, 385 Technique chamber irritation test erythema, 451 electron spin resonance, 1 oscillatory semisolid fluidity, 1 process development creams and lotions, 353 wilhelmy plate surface tension measurements, 419 Teflon comb effect triboelectric charging of hair, 341 Temperature chlorination effect on hair, 371 collagen, 163 ESR signals using DBNO, 1 fiber bundle method hair reduction, 99 formula preparation conditioner, 43, shampoo, 43 keratin fibers mechanical properties, 263 linalool decomposition pigments, 385 lotions surface nitrosation, 29 shampoo preservative stability, 307 skin permeation bioconversion of provitamin, 333 Tensility collagenous tissues, 163 keratin fibers chlorination, 371 halogenation, 359, stress-strain relations, 263 surface measurements wilhelmy plate technique, 419 surfactants corneocyte adhesion, 21 Terpenoids decomposition by pigments, 385 Terpinolene linalool decomposition, 385 Testosterone (TST) percutaneous absorption, 141 skin penetration, 397 Tetrahydrofuran nonionic surfactant emulsifier, 419 Tetramethylsilane internal standard for methyl p-hydroxybenzoate measurement, 83 Tetra sodium EDTA shampoo ingredient preservative activity, 307 Theophylline percutaneous absorption stratum corneum, 397 Theory linear viscoelastic extensional properties of human hair, 125, using ESR technique, 1 molecular orbital (MO) ultraviolet absorption, 193 rubber elasticity crosslinks in collagen, 163 Thermomechanical analyzer depilatory preparations relative activity, 287 Thickness diffuse reflectance infrared fourier transform spectroscopy siloxane deposition, 233 hair bundle depilatory activity, 287 measurement stratum corueum adhesion, 21 surface morphology hair chlorination, 371 Thioglycolate depilatories relative activity, 287 Thioglycolic acid extension of permed hair setting treatment, 125 hair damage waving, 263 Thiol disulfide interchange extension of permed hair, 125, rubber deformation, 125 hair damage waving, 263 Thiosulfonate hair adsorption, 233 Tightness bar soap irritancy, 153 Time depilatory preparation relative activity, 287 formation of nitrite, 29 hair charge density, 341, chlorine reaction, 359,371 reduction exogenous disulfide, 99 keratin fibers mechanical properties, 263 shampoo preservative stability decimal reduction, 307 stratum corueum concentration percutaneous absorption, 397 Tissue collagenous, 163 elastotic skin microrelief, 145 integrity cell proliferation, 141 skin measuring turnover time, 321 Titanium dioxide cosmetic pigmentation bactericidal effect on preservatives, 83 sunscreen chemical, 193 Toluene solvent nitrosation rates, 29 Toothpaste microbial content, 435 Topography periorbital skin, 145 Toxicology depilatory formulation animal model, 287 drug concentration percutaneous absorption, 397 properties of didecylmethylamine oxide, 43 Transepidermal water loss measurements moisturizing properties of