458 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS soap material irritation, 153 solvent sunscreen chemical, 209 Alcohol benzoate solvent sunscreen absorbance, 209 Alcohol/ether group peak envelope hair samples, 233 Alkaline chlorination effect on hair properties, 359, 371 n-nitrosodiethanolamine formation, 29 solubility test hair, 263 Alkanolamines nitrosation, 29 Alkyl component coco range, 43 Alkyldimethylamine oxides commercial applications (see didecylmethylamine oxides and stearylmethylamine oxides), 43 Alkylmonohalides hair treatment, 263 Alkyl quaternary ammonium salts long chain effect on hair surface modification, 341 Allantoin anionic surfactant composition cleanser, 353 Alloocimene dehydrated linalool decomposition, 385 Alpha-globulins fourier transform infrared spectroscopy sweat gland inhibition, 109 Alpha-terpinene linalool decomposition, 385 Alpha-tocopherol provitamin bioconversion skin, 333 Aluminum comb effect triboelectric charging of hair, 341 sweat glands infrared characterization, 109 Aluminum chlorhydrate (ACH) antiperspirant deodorants efficacy of triclosan, 223 sweat gland inhibition, 109 Amide carbonyls peak envelope hair samples, 233 Amine nitrosation, 29 shampoo preservative testing, 307 siloxane deposition keratin fibers, 247 Amino acid analysis hair keratin hydrolysates, 99, hair waving, 263 halogenation chlorine/hair interaction, 359 Ammonia pH adjustment extension of permed hair, 125 Ammonium lauryl sulfate shampoo formulation containing amine oxide, 43, preservative testing, 307 Ammonium thioglycolate hair reduction, 99 Amorphous phase polymers, 163 Analysis ANOVA skinfeel attributes, 443 Anatomy influence on penetration level, 397 Animals collagen shampoo preservative testing, 307 models depilatory activity, 287, skin irritation, 353 skin tanning pigs, 11 Anionic catalytic effect on nitrosation, 29 detergents keratin fiber surface, 263 skin cleanser antimicrobial optimization, 353 surfactant alkyldimethylamine oxide reaction, 43, acylglutamate, 353 ANOVA skinfeel analysis personal care products, 443 Anthranilates ultraviolet absorbance shift, 209 Antimicrobial optimization in anionic skin cleansers, 353 topical deodorant products, 223 Antiperspirant aluminum-keratin interaction sweat gland inhibition, 109 effects on aerobic axillary microbial populations, 223 Appearance skin care product, 443 Aqueous chlorination hair, 359 fluid didecylmethylamine oxide preparation, 43 mixture hair waving, 99 solution bioconversion of provitamin, 333, chitosan viscosity, 295, copolymerization of keratin fibers, 263, effect on corneocyte adhesion, 21, irritation by soaps, 153, polymer treatment, 233, depilatory action of sodium thioglycolate, 287 Ascorbic acid provitamin bioconversion in skin, 333 Assay guinea pig immersion test skin irritation, 353 HPLC provitamin bioconversion, 333 Atomic absorption (AA) silicone deposition on hair fibers, 247 Axillae region aerobic bacteria efficacy of triclosan, 223 Bacillus rate of death shampoo preservative stability, 307 Bacteria aerobic topical deodorant products, 223 growth in cosmetics plate count method, 83', preservative inhibition, 307 mouthwash, 435 Bands absorbance spectra hair bleaching, 179 absorption di-t-butylnitroxide, 1 fourier transform infrared spectroscopy keratin oxidation, 263 hair growth rate via fluorescence, 77 hair protein siloxanes on keratins, 247 model of contact charging hair, 341 Barrier properties epidermis sodium lauryl sulfate exposure, 63 skin function, 397, tissue surface, 295

SUBJECT INDEX 459 Base polyethylene glycol fluidity, 1 Bathochromic shifts in sunscreen chemicals, 209 Beeswax barrier cream component skin conductivity, 63 Behenyl derivatives cosmetic applications, 353 Bending hair extensional properties, 125 Benzoic acid (BA) percutaneous absorption, 141 skin penetration, 397 Bergamot linalool perfumes, 385 Bergapten in lotion skin tanning, 11 Biochemical engineering (book review), 351 Bioconversion skin provitamin, 333 Bischloroformate surface polymerization of keratin fibers, 263 Bleaching hair adsorption of cellulosic polymers, 233, changes in physical properties, 263, chemical, 179, photo, 179 keratin fibers damage, 247 Blond hair chlorination, 371 Bonding disulfide hair bleaching, 263, wool/chlorine reaction, 359 electron density polymers on hair, 233 extension of permed hair, 125 methyl p-hydroxybenzoate ionic, 83, covalent, 83 molecular orbital theory, 193 peptide wool/chlorine reaction, 359 Boron trifluoride ethyl ether complex refluxing solution synthesized copolymer, 419 Breaking hair fiber depilatory activity, 287 keratin fibers chlorination 359, 371 strength stratum corneum, 21 Bromine water tyrosine peptide bromination peptide bond, 359 Brown hair coloring bleaching, 179, chlorination, 371, depilatory action, 287, siloxane deposition, 247, triboelectric charge distributions, 341 Burning soap bar irritancy, 153 1,3-butadiene molecular orbit theory ultraviolet absorption by sunscreens, 193 1-butanol solvent nitrosation rates, 29 Butylmethoxy dibenzoylmethane sunscreen chemical absorbance, 209 Butyl p-hydroxybenzoate (BP) cosmetic preservative bactericidal effect of pigments, 83 Caffeine percutaneous absorption stratum corneum, 397 Candida microbial contamination mouthwash, 435 Candida albicans test organisms interactions of cosmetic pigments with preservatives, 83 Carbon polymers hair, 233 spectrum untreated skin, 295 Carbonyl groups in sunscreen chemicals, 193 Carboxylate aluminum chlorohydrate coordination sweat gland inhibition, 109 Carboxymethyl derivatives sodium iodoacetate, 99 Castor oil emollients polymers and lipids on stratum corneum membrane, 295 Cationic polymers adsorption on stratum corneum, 295, effect on hair surface modification, 341, electron spectroscopy of chemical analysis, 233, uptake by bleached fibers, 263 Cell count method effect of cosmetic pigments, 83 cuticle hair damage, 263 diffusion skin conductivity, 63 division and proliferation, 141 Centrimide broth microbial activity, 435 Cetearyl alcohol barrier cream component skin conductivity, 63 Cetylpyridinium chloride detergent solutions conductivity of skin, 63 Chapping skin damage effect of sodium lauryl sulfate, 63 Chemicals damage keratin fibers, 247 in vivo percutaneous absorption, 397 sunscreen, 193,209 Chemical absorbers sunscreens, 193 Chemical properties keratin fibers chlorination, 359 polymeric materials crosslinking, 163 stability nonionic surfactant systems, 419 Chitosan adsorption stratum corneum, 295 Chlorine effects on hair, 359, 371 friction measurements, 263 hair properties pH levels, 353 Chloroform hair sample purification triboelectric measurements, 341 solvent physical properties of hair, 263 with methanol stratum corneum disruption, 21 with triethanolamine/diethanolamine nitrite reaction, 29 Chloromethylisothiazolinone (CMIT) shampoo preservative stability testing, 307 Chloroxylenol antimicrobial activity skin cleansers, 353 Cholesteryl sulfate stratum corneum adhesion, 21 Circadian rhythm stratum corneum turnover time, 321 Cis-ocimene linalool dehydration perfumes, 385