j. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 39, 393-396 (November/December 1988) Abstracts The Annual Scientific Meetings and Seminars of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists are important venues for informing the participants about the state of the art and recent technical advances in the field of Cosmetic Science. To provide broader dissemination of that information, the Publi- cations Committee has decided to publish abstracts of the technical presentations made at these Meetings and Seminars in the Journal.--The Editor. Society of Cosmetic Chemists Annual Seminar May ! 1-12, 1989 Buena Vista Palace, Orlando, Florida Program arranged by the Society's Committee on Scientific Affairs, James Akerson (Clairol, Inc.), Chairman, 1989 The 1989 Annual Seminar is a joint meeting with the American Academy of Dermatology. SESSION A ACNE Acne vulgaris: An overview Peter E. Pochi, M.D., Department of Derma- tology, Conte Medical Research Center, 80 E. Con- cord Street, Boston, MA 02118-2394 Acne vulgaris, the most common skin disorder treated by physicians, affects susceptible pilo-seba- ceous follicles of the face and upper trunk. The pri- mary defect is an altered follicular epithelium, ef- fected by increased epithelial proliferation and by retention hyperkeratosis. The endogenous follicular microflora, predominantly the anaerobic diphther- oid, Propionibacterium acnes, which derives its nu- trient source from the triglyceride moiety of seba- ceous gland secretion (sebum), is, because of the keratinizing abnormality, capable of chemoat- tracting neutrophils to the follicular site. Subse- quent phagocytosis of these organisms by the neu- trophils releases a variety of hydrolytic enzymes re- sulting in follicular wall breakage with ensuing inflammation, manifested clinically as erythema- tous papules, pustules, nodules, or cysts. Therapeutic approaches are thus directed toward (a) reversal of the faulty keratinizing process (b) re- duction of P. acnes and/or its substrate, sebum and (c) inhibition of inflammation. SESSION B SKIN CARE FOR PEOPLE WITH SPECIAL NEEDS Interactions between dermatologists and cos- metic companies regarding patients with spe- cial skin care needs Myra O. Barker, Ph.D., Mary Kay Cosmetics, Inc., 1330 Regal Row, Dallas, TX 75247 Dermatologic patients want to be able to use color cosmetics, skin care and hair care products, fra- grances, and functional products such as antiper- spirants and sunscreens, to allow them to groom themselves attractively and be "like everyone else." Cosmetic company scientists are in an excellent po- sition to assist dermatologists in treating patients with allergic or photoallergic contact dermatitis, atopic eczema, vitiligo, acne, or other skin condi- tions. Cosmetic scientists can offer advice about in- 393

394 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS gredients and formulations, patch test kits for diag- nostic purposes, experimental or custom formula- tions, and other services to dermatologists to assist them in treating patients. An improved relation- ship between practicing dermatologists and cos- metic scientists should result from this information exchange designed to benefit the patient, who is also a cosmetic consumer. Specific suggestions will be offered on types of services the cosmetic scientist can offer and what information can be gathered in such situations. Instrumental and historical methods to identify sensitive skinned individuals Howard Maibach, M.D., University of California, School of Medicine, Department of Dermatology, Box 0989, San Francisco, CA 94143 Kaija Lam- mintausta, Turku University, Finland and Enzo Berardesca, Pavia University, Italy Many consumers and patients feel that they have "sensitive" skin and cannot tolerate soaps, deter- gents, cosmetics, textiles, moisturizers, sun screens, dermatologic drugs and fabric softeners. This paper will update our efforts to define facile and robust methods not only for demonstrating that these subjects' skins are different, but for categor- izing some of the dermatologic abnormalities. "Look Good .... Feel Better" Bernadette Toomey, B.A., M.A., The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, 1110 Vermont Avenue, N.W., Suite 800, Washington DC 20005 Ms. Toomey, Vice President, CTFA Foundation, will discuss the national public service program "Look Good . . . Feel Better." This program is being developed by the CTFA Foundation in part- nership with the American Cancer Society and the National Cosmetology Association, and deals with the negative appearance changes that occur because of chemotherapy and radiation treatments. "Look Good . . . Feel Better" will provide a net- work of support by utilizing volunteers from the ACS, cosmetologists, and health professionals, to offer "Look Good . . . Feel Better" programs in a variety of settings, including hospitals, community centers, and salons. It is being piloted this fall at Memorial Sloan-Kettering in New York City, the Lombardi Cancer Center in Washington, D.C., and through the NYC Division of the American Cancer Society. A national announcement of the program will be made when the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association Board has its Annual Meeting at Boca Raton in February 1989. "Look Good . . . Feel Better" will then be phased into approximately ten states and Comprehensive Cancer Centers through- out the United States. "Look Good . . . Feel Better" is a unique opportunity for the cosmetic in- dustry to provide a valuable public service. SESSION C SUNSCREENS Sunlight, skin cancer, and aging of the skin Frederick Urbach, M.D., Center for Photobiology, Skin and Cancer Hospital, Temple University School of Medicine, 3322 North Broad Street, Phil- adelphia, PA 19140 Examination of the sun's role in the production of human skin cancer does not lend itself to direct ex- perimentation. However, extensive astute observa- tions have strongly suggested the etiologic signifi- cance of light energy in the induction of these tumors. Skin cancers in Caucasians in general are most prevalent in geographic areas of the greatest isolation and among people who receive the most exposure, i.e., men who work outdoors. They are rare in Negroes and other deeply pigmented indi- viduals who have the greatest protection against UV light injury. Further, the lightest complexioned in- dividuals, such as those of Scottish and Irish de- scent, appear to be the most susceptible to skin cancer formation when they live in geographic areas of high-UV exposure. "Aging" of skin is also due to chronic UVR expo- sure. Proper use of sunscreens can reduce all these effects. Prevention of skin cancer in mice by sunscreens Hans Chr. Wulf, M.D., Department of Derma- tology, Laboratory of Photobiology, University Hospital, Rigshospital, Blegdamsvej 9, 2100 Co- penhagen, Denmark Sunscreens have been tested for their capability of delaying or preventing skin cancer in hairless, pig- mented mice exposed to artificial ultraviolet (UV) radiation four times weekly. Increasing UV doses were used, so that the dose delivered to the un- treated control group was kept close to the tolerable dose. The same dose was used in the mouse groups to which sunscreens were applied. Tumorigenesis was demonstrated to be increasingly delayed the higher the SPF. However, all UV-irra- diated mice got tumors within the study period of 18 months. Histologic examinations revealed that all irradiated mice had squamous cell carcinomas. Metastases to lymph nodes and lungs were found in only 10% of the mice.