HUMAN HAIR CUTICLE 45 cortex, and 0.3 of a monolayer layer associated with the intercuticular cell membrane complex. REFERENCES (1) L. N. Jones and D. E. Rivett, Role of 18-methyleicosanoic acid in the structure and formation of mammalian hair fibres, Micron, 28, 469-485 (1997). (2) J. A. Swift, Human and other animal hairs: Morphological and functional comparison, Retinoids, 13, 114-119 (1997). (3) M. L. Garcia, J. A. Epps, and R. S. Yare, Normal cuticle wear patterns in human hair, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem, 29, 155-175 (1978). (4) J. A. Swift and A. C. Brown, The critical determination of fine changes in the surface architecture of human hair due to cosmetic treatment, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 23, 695-702 (1972). (5) J. A. Swift, "Morphology and Histochemistry of Human Hair," in Formation and Structure of Human Hair, P. Jollbs, H. Zahn, and H. H6cker, Eds. (Birkh•/user Verlag, Basel, 1997), pp. 149-175. (6) J. A. Swift and B. Bews, The chemistry of human hair cuticle. Part 3. The isolation and amino acid analysis of various sub-fractions of the cuticle obtained by pronase and trypsin digestion,.]. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 27, 289-300 (1976). (7) J. A. Swift, Minimum depth electron probe X-ray microanalysis as a means for determining the sulphur content of the human hair surface, Scanning, 2, 83-88 (1979). (8) R.J. Ward, R. E. H. Willis, G. A. George, G. B. Guise, R. J. Denning, D. J. Evans, and R. D. Short, Surface analysis by X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy and static secondary ion mass spectrometry, Textile Res..], 63, 362-368 (1993). (9) J. Shao, D. C. Jones, R. Mitchell, J. C. Vickermann, and C. M. Cart, Time-of-flight secondary-ion mass specrromerric (Tof-SIMS) and X-ray photoelectron spectroscopic (XPS) analyses of the surface lipids of wool,.]. Textile Inst., 88, 317-324 (1997). (10) B.C. Powell and G.E. Rogers, "The Role of Keratin Proteins and Their Genes in the Growth, Structure and Properties of Hair," in Formation and Structure of Human Hair, P. Jollbs, H. Zahn, and H. H6cker, Eds. (Birkh•/user Verlag, Basel, 1997), pp. 59-148. (11) G. E. Rogers, Electron microscope studies of hair and wool, Ann. N. •5 Acad. Sd., 83,378-399 (1959). (12) J. M. Gillespie, "The Structural Proteins of Hair: Isolation, Characrerisarion and Regulation of Bio- synthesis," in Physiology, Biochemistry and Molecular Biology of the Skin, L. A. Goldsmith, Ed. (Oxford University Press, Oxford, 1991), Vol. 1, pp. 625-659. (13) B. J. Jenkins and B. C. Powell, Differential expression of genes encoding a cysteine-rich keratin family in the hair cuticle,.]. Invest. Dermatol., 103, 310-317 (1994). (14) P.J. Mackinnon, B.C. Powell, and G. E. Rogers, Structure and expression of genes for a class of cysreine-rich proteins of the cuticle layers of differentiating wool and hair follicles,.]. Cell Biol., 111, 2587-2600 (1990). (15) J. A. Swift and B. Bews, The chemistry of human hair cuticle. Part 2. The isolation and amino acid composition of the cell membranes and A-layer,.]. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 25, 355-366 (1974). (16) K. Yoneda, M. Akiyama, K. Morita, H. Shimizu, S. Imamura, and S.-Y. Kim, Expression of trans- glutaminase 1 in human hair follicles, sebaceous glands and sweat glands, Br..]. Dermatol,, 138, 37-44 (1998). (17) M. Nienhaus, Beltrag zur Enzymatischen Hydrolyse yon Keratinfasern und lhren Komponenten, Ph.D. thesis, Rheinisch-Westoealischen Technischen Hochschule, Aachen, Germany (1981). (18) H. Zahn, H. Messinger, and H. H6cker, Covalenrly linked fatty acids at the surface of wool: Part of the "cuticle cell envelope," Textile Res..]., 64, 554-555 (1994). (19) I. K. Allwt3rden, Die eigenschaften der schafwolle und eine neue untersuchungsmethode zum nach- weiss gesch•/diger wolle auf chemischen wege, Z. Angew. Chem., 29, 77-78 (1916). (20) J. H. Bradbury and J. D. Leeder, Keratin fibres. Part 6. Mechanism of the Allw6rden reaction, Aust. .]. Bid. Sci., 25, 133-138 (1972). (21) P.M. Steinerr and L.N. Marekov, The proteins elafin, filaggrin, 1oricrin, and small proline-rich proteins 1 and 2 are isopeptide cross-linked components of the human epidermal cornified cell envelope,.]. Biol. Chem., 270, 17702-17711 (1995). (22) R. H. Rice, V.J. Wong, and K. E. Pinkerton, Ultrastructural visualisarion of cross-linked protein features in epidermal appendages,.]. Cell Sd., 107, 1985-1992 (1994).
46 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE (23) J. A. Swift, "The Hair Surface," in Hair Research, C. E. Orfanos, W. Montagna, and G. StCittgen, Eds. (Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1981), pp. 65-72. (24) J. A. Swift, The mechanics of hair fracture, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. (in press, 1998). (25) P. Kassenbeck, "Morphology and Fine Structure of Hair," in Hair Research, C. E. Orfanos, W. Mon- tagna, and G. Sttittgen, Eds. (Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1981), pp. 52-64. (26) S. D. O'Connor, K. L. Komisarek, and J. D. Baldeschwieler, Atomic force microscopy of human hair cuticles. A microscopic study of environmental effects on hair morphology, J. Invest. DermatoL, 105, 96-99 (1995). (27) T. L. Phillips, T. J. Horr, M. G. Huson, and P.S. Turner, Imaging wool fibre surfaces with a scanning force microscope, Textile Res. J., 65,445-453 (1995). (28) C. Orfanos and H. Ruska, Die Feinstruktur des menschlichen Haares. I. Die Haar-Cuticula, Arch. Klin. Exp. Dermatol., 231, 97-110 (1968). (29) L. N. Jones, D. E. Rivett, and D. J. Tucker, "Wool and Related Mammalian Fibers," in Handbook of Fiber Science and Technology, E. M. Pearse and M. Lewin, Eds. (Marcel Dekker, New York, 1997), pp. 355-413. (30) R. M. Bon6s, The Effect of the Histological Structure of Wool Fibres on Some of Their Elastic Properties, Ph.D. thesis, University of Leeds, England (1966). (3l) D. F. G. Orwin, A polysaccharide-containing cell coat on keratinising cells of the Romney wool follicle, Austral. J. BioL Sci., 23, 623-635 (1970). (32) A. K. Allen, J. Ellis, and D. E. Rivett, The presence of glycoproteins in the cell membrane complex of a variety of keratin fibres, Biochim. Biophys. Acta, 1074, 331-333 (1991). (33) J. A. Swift and A. W. Holmes, Degradation of human hair by papain. III. Some electron microscope observations, Textile Res. J., 35, 1014-1019 (1965). (34) A. Negri, D. A. Rankin, W. G. Nelson, and D. E. Rivett, A transmission electron microscope study of covalently bound fatty acids in the cell membranes of wool fibres, Textile Res. J., 66, 491-495 (1996). (35) D.J. Evans, J. D. Leeder, J. A. Rippon, and D. E. Rivett, Separation and analysis of the surface lipids of the wool fibre, Proc 7th Internat. Woo/Textile Res. Conf, Tokyo, 1, 135-142 (1985). (36) P.W. Wertz and D. T. Downing, Integral lipids in human hair, Lipids, 23, 878-881 (1988). (37) P. W. Wertz and D. T. Downing, Integral lipids of mammalian hair, Comp. Blochem. PhysioL B., 92B, 759-761 (1989). (38) D.J. Peet, R. E. H. Wettenhall, D. E. Rivett, and A. K. Allen, A comparative study of covalently- bound fatty acids in keratinized tissues, Comp. Blochem. Physio/., 102B, 363-366 (1992). (39) N. Yorimoto and S. Naito, Physical and chemical properties of integral lipids in hair cell membrane complex, Proc Internat. Syrup. Fiber Sci. TechnoL, Yokohama, 215 (1994). (40) D. Evans and M. Lanczki, Cleavage of integral surface lipids of wool by aminolysis, Textile Res. J., 67, 435-444 (1997). (41) C. Protrey and T. F. M. Ferguson, Measurements of lipid synthesis in mouse auricular skin cultured in vitro, Br. J. Dermatol., 87, 475•495 (1972). (42) J. Dancis and M. Levitz, "Abnormalities of Branched Chain Amino Acid Metabolism," in Metabolic Basis of Inherited Disease, J. B. Stanbury, J. B. Wyngaarden, and D. S. Fredrickson, Eds. (McGraw-Hill, New York, 1978), pp. 397-410. (43) S. Naito, N. Yorimoto, and Y. Kuroda, The structure of bound lipids of human hair fibres and its physical properties, Proc. 9th Internat. Wool Textile Res. Conf, Biella, 2, 367-374 (1996). (44) L. N. Jones, D.J. Peet, D. M. Danks, A. P. Negri, and D. E. Rivett, Hairs from patients with maple syrup urine disease show a structural defect in the fibre cuticle, J. Invest. Dermatol., 105, 461-464 (1996). (45) C. Validoff, Kovalent gebundene Fetts•'umn a•fHumanhaa•. Ph.D. dissertation, Rheinisch-Westoeischen Technischen Hochschule, Aachen, Germany (1995). (46) A.W. Weitkamp, The acidic constituents of degras: A new method of structure elucidation, J. Am. Chem. Soc., 67, 447-454 (1945). (47) F. M. Menger, M. G. Wood, S. Richardson, Q. Z. Zhou, A. R. Elrington, and M. J. Shetrod, Chain- substituted lipids in monolayer films. A study of molecular packing,J. Am. Chem. Soc., 110, 6797- 6803 (1988). (48) F. M. Menget, M. G. Wood, Q. Z. Zhou, H. P. Hopkins, and J. Fumero, Thermotropic properties of synthetic chain-substituted phosphatidylcholines: Effect of substituent size, polarity, number, and location on molecular packing in bilayers, J. Am. Chem. Soc., 110, 6804-6810 (1988).
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