78 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE developing agents that more specifically target these mechanisms. While most approaches relied. on anti-inflammatory or immunoregulatory agents, more recently, a new area of development has been initiated and that is targeting agents which alter growth of blood vessels or angiogenesis. Neo vascularization is an essential step in turnout growth and metastasises but is involved in normal hemostasis as well as many benign processes. Vascularity is also part of the inflammatory response and we have recently shown that angiogenesis-inhibitors are capable of moduling the cutaneous inflammatory response. This type of intervention suggests a new target for our therapeutic armentarian in advancement in skin biology.

PREPRINTS OF THE 1998 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC MEETING 79 UNIQUE SOLUTION PROPERTIES OF A POLYAMPHOLYTE --ANIONIC SURFACTANT COMPLEXES G. Matz, B. Durost, R. LaMar and A. Melby Calgon Corporation, P O. Box 1346, Pittsburgh, PA 15230 Introduction: Polyampholytes are polymers synthesized from monomers containing a quaternary ammonium group and monomers containing an ionizable acid group. Unlike cationic polymers, which have been used in hair care formulations for over twenty five years s-2 ,polyampholytes are a more recent addition to the tool kit available to formulators aaø. The mode of action for cationic conditioning polymers in shampoos has been well documented in the literature •'•2. The generally accepted mechanism involves the coulombic attraction of polymer cationic sites for the anionic head groups of the surfactant. In the presence of excess polymer or excess anionic surfactant, clear solutions are obtained. However, the complex precipitates as it approaches a 1:1 stoichiometric ratio. Under use conditions, deposition is reported to occur as the formulation is diluted during application and the complex precipitates. Figure 1 outlines this phenomenon. For ampholytic polymers, a variable situation is observed. The net polymer charge (the difference between cationic charge and artionic charge on a polymer) can lead to "cationic polymer behavior", as described above, or clear formulations that do not precipitate upon dilution. Results and Discussion: Polymer composition, pH and surfactant ratio have a measurable effect on the interaction between ampholytic polymers and artionic surfactants when compared to cationic polymers. The trends observed are outlined below: The pH of a carboxylic acid containing polyampholyte solution will have a marked effect on the •net" charge on the polymer. This is a direct result of the acid-base equilibrium shifting as pH changes. Figure 2 shows how •net" charge varies with degree of neutralization and pH for Polyquatemium 22, a 64/36 m/m DMDAAC/AA copolymer (Merquat ¸ 280 from Calgon Corporation) Polyquatemium 39, a 35/35/30 m/m AA/Am/DMDAAC copolymer (Merquat ¸ Plus 3330 from Calgon Corporation) and Polyquatemium 47, a 45/45/10 m/m AA/MAPTAC/MA copolymer (Merquat ¸ 2001 from Calgon Corporation). The charge on cationic polymers does not change with pH. Polymer Ionic Composition The molar ratio of cationic to anionic monomer units employed in a polyampholyte composition affect the overall 'net • charge on the resulting polymer. Molar excess of one versus the other will sway the "net" charge in that direction. Non-Ionic Monomer Incorporation Uncharged monomers can be incorporated into a polyelectolyte to dilute the overall charge density of a polymer, provide hydrophilic sites on the polymer to encourage the formation of "clear' polymer- surfactant complexes or provide hydrophobic sites to promote polymer-surfactant complex precipitation. Artionic Surfactant - Polymer Interaction When the pH and polymer composition effects are coupled with the addition of artionic surfact,ants to polyampholyte solutions, a complicated interaction develops. As the pH and "net" cationic charge on the polymer varies, the polyampholyte demonstrates a variable ability to form insoluble complexes with artionic surfactants. This complexing tendency being most prominent at lower pH, where the polyampholyte carries a stronger 'net" positive charge. This is in contrast to cationic polymers, which show very little variation in polymer-anionic surfactant complex appearance as a function of pH. The data