J. Cosmet. Sci.) 55, 313-315 (May/June 2004) Abstracts IFSCC Magazine Vol. 7, No. 1, 2004* Versican-Expression by Dermal Papilla Regenerated Hair Follicles - A Promising Tool for Hair-Regrowth Products Jiro Kishimoto, Tsutomu Soma, Robert Burgeson, Toshihikio Hibino, Life Science Research Center, Shiseido Co., Ltd., Yokohama, Japan Cutaneous Biology Research Center, Harvard Medical School and Massachusetts General Hospital, Charlestown, MA, USA Corresponding author email: jiro.kishimoto@to. shiseido. co. jp Hair follicle stem cells and dermal papilla cells play essential roles in the cyclical hair regeneration process. However, compared with the recent progress of follicular stem cell research, detailed analysis of dermal papilla cells is virtually unknown. We have focused on a large chondroitin sulfate proteoglycan molecule, versican, and prove its pivotal role in hair follicle induction both in-vitro and in-vivo. First, we examined versican expression with hair cycling b in-situ hybridization (mRNA) and immunohistochemistry (protein). Results clearly showed specific versican expression in anagen onset of dermal papilla cells implying a function role of version in hair induction. We then generated transgenic lines with LacZ or green fluorescent protein reporter genes under a versican regulatory element promoter) control and confirmed derma papilla specific activation of the reporter. These transgenic lines were utilized to isolate the dermal papilla cell population by means of a fluorescent activated cell sorter. While freshly isolated dermal papilla cells were able to induce hair growth in a skin reconstitution assay when grafted with undifferentiated epidermal cells, this ability and versican expression were rapidly lost during passages in culture. In order to examine the functional role of versican in hair growth inducation, versican full-length cDNAs were transfected into inactive pasaged dermal papilla cells. Impressively, this forced expression of versican molecules partially restored hair inductivity of dermal papilla cells in a skin reconstitution assay. These result demonstrated the pivotal role of versican in hair induction both in-vitro and in-vivo and will connect the missing link between the signal from dermal papilla cells to follicular stem cells, and initiation of hair regeneration. We have also shown that the hair growth promoting compound, cyclosporine A, can up-regulate versican expression implying the application of a novel screening approach for hair growth promoting compounds by monitoring versican expression as an indicator. Assessment of Visibility of Facial Wrinkle Reduction by Various Types of Observers Joyce H.D.M. Westerink, Personal Care Institute, Philips Research, Eindhoven, The Netherlands email: joyce.westerink@philips.com The prime objective of many facial wrinkle-reduction treatments is to achieve visible improvement. The visibility of before/after treatment differences is therefore often part of the efficacy assessment. This paper investigates whether the background knowledge of the people acting as observers in such assessments has an impact on the results, e.g., the subjects themselves are familiar with their faces, skin professionals have much experience in judging skin quality, and thus both might be more sensitive to small changes. In a clinical study forty-four female subjects were regularly treated during a period of twelve weeks with one of three wrinkle-reduction treatments: K, L and M (placebo). Photographs were taken before treatment and after 6 and 12 weeks. Three different types of observers judged the photographs: .Observer type 1: Twenty-four lay observers were given the 0- and 6-week and the 0-and 12-week pairs of photographs of all subjects to indicate the one with the least wrinkles in a two-alternative forced-choice procedure .Observer type II: The subjects themselves were given the 0- and 6-week and the 0-and 12-week pairs of their * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the journal of Cosmetic Science. 313

314 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE own photographs (8 replications) to indicate the photograph with the least wrinkles (two-alternative forced-choice) .Observer type III: A trained panel of skin professionals (n=3) each gave a 9-point Fitzpatrick wrinkle-severity score for all individual 0- and 12-week photographs. It was found that the lay observers perceived the same differences as the subjects themselves: significant improvements after 12 weeks for treatment K (p0.0005 and p=0.005, respectively). No visible effects were seen for treatments L and M, but, most importantly, a significant difference between treatments K and M (placebo) (p=0.015 and p=0.01 for independent observers and the subjects themselves, respectively). The trained panel also identified this difference between K and M (p=0.013) in favor of K, but here it was due to a significant deterioration over time of the 'placebo-treated' wrinkles (M, p=0.03). Thus, in conclusion, no indications were found that extra knowledge - in the form of familiarity with the own face or in the form of professional training - results in the identification of more treatments that show significantly visible wrinkle-reduction. Downregulation of Nuclear Factor-kappaB Activation in Human Keratinocytes by Melanogenesis-Inhibitors Kwang Seok Ahn, Jinseon Lee, and Yeong Shik Kim, Natural Products Research Institute, College of Pharmacy, Seoul National University, 28 Yeonkun­ Dong, Jongno-Ku, Seoul 110-460, Korea Professional Gradutae School of Oriental Medicine, Wonkwang University, 344-2 Shinyong-dong, Iksan, Chonbuk 570- 749, Korea Corresponding author email: kims@plaza.snu.ac.kr Liberated nuclear factor-kappa B (NJ-kB) 1s translocated into the nucleus where it can change or alter the expression of target genes, resulting in the secretion of extracellular signaling molecules including melanotrophic factors affecting the melanocyte. In order to demonstrate the possible role of NF-kB activation on the synthesis of melanotrophic factors from the keratinocytes, the activities of NF -kB induced by melanogenesis inhibitors were determined in human HaCaT keratinocytes transfected with pNF-kB- SEAP­ NPT plasmid. Transfectant cells released the secretory alkaline phosphatase (SEAP) as a transcription reporter in response to the NF-kB activity. Melanogenesis inhibitors such as niacinamide, kojic acid, gydroquinone, resorcinol, arbutin, and glycolic acid were pre-incubated with transfectant HaCaT cells for 3h and then ultraviolet B (UVB) was irradiated. Of the melanogenesis inhibitors tested, kojic acid (IC 50 = 60 µM) was found to be the most potent inhibitor of UVB-upregulating NF-KB activation in transfectant HaCaT cells, which is followed by niacinamide (IC 50 = 540 µM). Especially kojic acid and niacinamide effectively lowered NF-KB binding as measured by the electrophoretic mobility shift assay. Furthermore, these two inhibitors remarkably reduced the secretion level of IL (interleukin-6, one of the melanotrophic factors, trigged by UV-radiation of the HaCaT cells. These observations suggest that melanogenesis inhibitors working at the in-vivo level might act partially through the modulation of the synthesis f melanotrophic factors in keratinocytes. Formulating for Efficacy Johann W. Wiechers, Caroline L. Kelly, Trevor G. Blease, and J. Chris Dederen, Uniqema Skin R&D, Gouda, The Netherlands Uniqema R&D Department, Redcar, United Kingdom Uniqema Personal Care Applied Research and Technical Service Group, Redcar, United Kingdom Corresponding author - email: iohann.wiechers@uniqema.com Active ingredients have been around in cosmetics for a long time but have they really resulted in active cosmetic products? In order to achieve this, the right ingredient needs to be delivered to the right location at the right concentration for the correct period of time. And the extent (and therefore the concentration) of this delivery depends on the formulation. From a rather theoretical approach based on the polarity of the active ingredient, the stratum corneum and the oil phase, the Relative Polarity Index was established that enables the selection of a suitable emollient for ensuring skin penetration of the active ingredient. Practical examples subsequently show the validity of this approach that demonstrates that one can regulate the delivery of an active molecule (and therefore the efficacy of a cosmetic formulation) by selection and control of the emollient system. Cosmetic formulations are generally quite complex mixtures and subsequent experiments using different emulsifier systems indicated that this component of a cosmetic formulation could also have an impact on steering the active ingredient to the right layer of the skin, although it is too early to be able to derive general rules from this. Development of Lip Treatment on the Basis of Desquamation Mechanism Rie Hikima, Shigeru lgarashi, Naoko Ikeda, Masayuki Matsumoto, Atsushi Hanyama, Yuichiro Egawa, Toshia Horikoshi, and Shoji Hayashi Cosmetics Laboratory, Kanebo Ltd., 5-3-28 Kotobuki­ cho, Odawara, 250-0002, Japan Corresponding author: Rie Hikima - email: ri�J1@oda.cos.kanebo.co.iP. Lip chapping is a serious cosmetics problem, though remedies other than moisturization have not been proposed. We investigated changes in the surface configurations of lip corneocytes and activities of desquamation-regulating proteinases associated with lip