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154 J. Cosmet. Sci., 73, 154–165 (May/June 2022) Address all correspondence to Quan An, anquan@ynbyjk.com The Antipigmentation and Antioxidant Activity of Sanchi Flower Extract JUAN WANG, PEIYU WANG, XUE SHAO, TONG HUO, JITAO LIU, QIANGHUA QUAN AND QUAN AN Yunnan Baiyao Group Health Products Co., Ltd., Kunming, Yunnan, P.R. China (J.W., P.W., X.S., T.H., J.L., Q.Q., Q.A.) East Asia Skin Health Research Center, Beijing, P.R. China (J.W., P.W., X.S., T.H., Q.Q., Q.A.) REAL DermaSci & Biotech Co., Ltd., Beijing, P.R. China (J.W., P.W., T.H., Q.Q., Q.A.) Yunnan Baiyao Group Shanghai Science & Technology Co., Ltd., Shanghai, P.R. China (J.L., Q.A.) Accepted for publication June 20, 2022. Synopsis Long-term ultraviolet (UV) irradiation stimulates melanogenesis by direct effects on melanocytes and by indirect effects on keratinocytes releasing melanogenic factors. Hyperpigmentation is a major cosmetic concern. Thus, melanin synthesis inhibitors are popularly used as brightening agents in cosmetics. It has been reported that Sanchi flower extract (SFE) exerts various biological effects including hypotensive, hemostatic, and anti-aging activities. The authors explored the potential of SFE as a cosmetic ingredient. On the one hand, it could significantly inhibit melanin production both in B16-F0 cells and in the three-dimensional skin model. In addition, intracellular tyrosinase activity decreased after treatment with SFE. On the other hand, it upregulated cellular glutathione peroxidase activity and total antioxidant capacity in HaCaT cells irradiated with UVB radiation in contrast to the model group. These results indicated that SFE showed obvious antipigmentation potency and alleviated oxidative stress caused by UVB. INTRODUCTION Sanchi, as a famous and precious Chinese medicine, has been commonly used throughout history as an alternative remedy. It has been used for medicinal purposes to promote blood circulation, relieve swelling and pain, and counteract blood stasis (1). Its various parts— including roots, flowers, and leaves—are used for producing medicinal formulations. The main active ingredients of Sanchi are composed of saponins, amino acids (2), flavonoids, and polyphenols, which display strong antioxidant activity and anti-inflammatory potency (3). However, the antimelanogenesis and skin-protective effects of Sanchi flower extract (SFE) are rarely reported.
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