BOOK REVIEWS 79 very much about the production of the purified dyes of the type certi- fied for use in this country. No mention is made of the fluorescein or triphenylmethane dyes that repre- sent a large portion of the certified colors used. The analytical methods given do not reflect the practices of modern, w. ell-equipped analytical laborato- ries. The chapter on health hazards in the industry is so brief and incom- plete that it might serve to minimize a serious problem. The book will be of little value to the chemist in a dye plant. It will, however, be of considerable assist- ance to the student who wishes to obtain an idea of the procedures followed in commercial production of some types of dyes. The author states in his preface that the book was intended for the student or junior chemist. He has produced a well-written text that can be recommended to those groups. --G. RouF. P.m CLARK. FORMULAIRE DE PARFUMERIE, 3 volumes, by Rene Cerbelaud (P. Velon, E. Bourdet, L. Bornand, and E. Sidi wrote the revisions), 3041 pages, illustrated and indexed, 6 X 91/2 inches. Editions Opera, Paris. Price 19,000 francs. The Cerbelaud books are known wherever there are outstanding per- fumers and cosmetic chemists. Though written in French, the work does not suffer at all. The cosmetic and perfume sciences have grown rapidly, but Cerbelaud is no longer here to know. It was therefore fitting that the books he wrote be continued the toilet goods world is fortunate indeed that a cosmetic chemist, a colorist, a perfumer, and an allergist collaborated to bring this mammoth work up to date. The renowned Cecbelaud pro- duced a great but confused work as far as this reviewer was ever able to determine. The revisers however have added their material at the end of each of the old volumes, and in an orderly fashion. In other words, the old material stands as it was originally published and the new material is added at the end of each volume. Both Cerbelaud and the current writers have given credit where ma- terial is quoted from other sources. Cerbelaud's earlier material in Volume I consists of a text on Per- fumery, with a discussion of the raw materials used. Bourdet's contributions on colors could be more complete if the FD&C designations together with either Schultz or Colour Index numbers were included. The sec- tion on soap colors is good. It is noted that neither FD&C Yellow No. 3 and 4 nor FD&C Red No. 32 are included among the oil-soluble colors, all of which are believed by some foreign countries to be cancer- ogenic. However, Butter Yellow is included--yet it is considered unsafe in this country. Dr. Sidi gives a scholarly report on the allergic responses due to cos- metics, illustrated from his own col- lection of photographs of patients coming to his clinic. Each majo• type of cosmetic is discussed. Many of the chapters are illus- trated. One is a bit concerned with the authors' statement that, in 1948, 66 cases of cosmetic sensitization were found among 519 cases of der- madds reporting in the authors' clinic. Broken down, the worst of-• fenders were brilliantines 32 cases, nail polish 15 cases, lipsticks 11 cases, and p-phenylenediamine dyes 8 cases. American cold-wave sup- pliers will not agree with this aller- gist's findings on thioglycolates. In Volume II, Mr. Velon reviews the standards of the T.G.A. for

80 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS various cosmetic materials, along with formulations quoted from the works of others. The volume is completed with a thumbnail sketch of the activities and principal prod- ucts of some of the better-known European perfumery houses. Cerbelaud's original work in Vol- ume II consists of a discussion of toilet creams, rouge, lipstick, face powder, shampoo, and related prod- ucts. In Volume III, the original mate- rial consisting of a discussion of formulation of additional creams, dentifrices, cologne and toilet water, and hair dyes, the latter being quite a large section. In fact, the 1936 material consists of over 1000 pages in itself. Mr. V$lon completes the book with chapters on make-up, shaving creams, shampoo and scalp products, sunscreens, and nail pol- ish. There are some typographical errors, such as using PD&C for FD&C, and Ohlson for Ohlsson. There are a few scattered errors in the original text. But in an effort of this magnitude, it would be im- possible not to have minor faults. There is no doubt that the con- tributions of Velon, Boutder, Sidi, and Bornand have embellished Cer- belaud's work. The earlier material has been improved upon, yet much of it is as valuable today as when volume III was revised in 1936 when this reviewer had the privilege to correspond with the author on the revision of that day. One is somewhat confused by the .arrangement of Cerbelaud's work and no one will admit the difficulties of properly organizing cosmetic data more quickly than the re- viewer. Perhaps the trouble is with the versatility of the author himself. A volume on perfumery, another on creams, and lotions end- ing with a third volume on make-up, would have done the trick admi- rably. While the revised material does bring the work up to date, one gets the feeling that the large portion of the task went to Mr. Velon. So to him must .go the criticism and praise in propomon. Author Velon depended much on T.G.A. data which flatters us, but should he have not used more Euro- pean material? The literature of the cosmetic industry is heavily quoted. More original formulas should have appeared. Some pat- ents are referred to, but most are ig- nored, whether of U.S. or European origin. Some literature is quoted, but much valuable material is by- passed. The new material is not in- dexed. Publishers of books on cosmetic subjects are hesitant to destroy the type of a successful book. Instead they prefer to make additions at the end of the old manuscript. This leads to large, bulky, and expensive books, as in the case of the present work which in Paris is worth about $55.00. Some of the old material could be deleted and thus make the volumes smaller. Yet no one will underestimate the additional value of the 610 pages of newly contributed material by the several authors, particularly by Mr. Velon, who brings more cosmetic science into Cerbelaud's work than the original author would have thought possible.--M. G. DEN.