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THE APPLICATION OF THE BIOLOGICAL SCIENCES TO COSMETICS By LLOYD W. HAZLETON, Ph.D.* TuE OBJECTIVE in presenting this paper is to plot a course for integrat- ing biological and physical sciences in basic cosmetic research and in new product development. Since chemical research per se can no more be productive in evaluating new potentials than can biological research, a corollary objective is to explore the utility of biological re~ search as a chemical research partner. Historically, biology, in its broad sense, far antedates chemistry. Let us then examine very briefly these two sciences. In the beginning there was man. At least, we are not interested for the present topic in going back beyond that. Man was surrounded by plants and by other animal life. The plants in particular were essential to man's life, for he is a dependent organism having no appreciable capacity to convert soil, sun, and water into essential chemi- cals. Man was, therefore, forced to in- terest himself in plants and in animals as basic and intermediate chemical plants necessary for his existence. He did not, however, * Haz!eton Laboratories, ]Falls Church, Virginia, U.S.A. understand any small part of this cycle except the obvious necessity. Consequently, man's first interest was biological he learned to culti- vate plants and to domesticate animals. He learned, probably by observation, to use animal by-pro- ducts for enriching the cycle, still without chemical knowledge of what he was doing. Perhaps this goes back a bit too far to pick up relationships, but even in its brevity it should serve as a reference point. Indiscriminately skipping over anthropological time zones, we might next look in on the situation of about a century ago. By this time chemistry, as a science, was stirring restively. Biological sciences were likewise progressing and starting to undergo schism into various fields. Foremost was divi- sion into plant and animal special- ties, the latter being our interest at present. Anatomy, the science of body structure, perhaps, was the lead~off. Then physiology, the science of the normal function, fol- lowed by biochemistry, or the chem- istry of life, and more recently by pharmacology, the study of the effects of chemicals on structure, 168
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