SIMPLE FLORAL PERFUMES TABLE IV The Diads, or combination sequence of two floral elements The Elements: (3) Jasmin, (5) Neroli, (9) Rose (warm) (13) Violet (17) Lilac (211 Lily (cold) 3/5 Jasmin-neroli (w) 3/9 Jasmin-rose (w) 3/13 Jasmin-violet 3/17 Jasmin-lilac 3/21 Jasmin-lily (s) 5/9 Neroli-rose 5/13 Netoil-violet 5/17 Neroli-lilac 5/21 Neroli-lily (w) (4) 9/13 Rose-violet 9/17 l•ose-lilac 9/21 l•ose-lily (3) 13/17 Violet-lilac (c) 13/21 Vio. letdily (c) (2) 17/21 Lilac-lily (c) (1) Total: ... (15) harmonious conjunction with lilac and lily. Furthermore, jasmin and neroli, in alignment with rose, give warm and quiet tonalities, while the lilac-lily grouping may be regarded as an agreeable presentation of cool, quies- cent odours. After due considera- tion, however, I think it more profit- able to consider the formulation of the triads, in accordance with Table V, which, it will be noted, com- mences with a combination of the "warm" (and postulated) radicals-- jasmin, neroli and rose. The change-ringing mechanism proceeding until the finality of the "cool" elements--violet, lilac and lily--is reached, is effected, it will be rioticed, in the comparatively short span of twenty movements. The final column of Table V is headed "Basic Odour Type," certain items in which are subsequently com- mented upon, but I would remark that this odour description should be regarded as tentative, in the same way in which, for instance, an aromatic chemical called "methyl linalyl ketone" might be described as "recalling the odour of Mitcham Lavender." A LITERARY DIGRESSION In parenthesis, I would state that, as a basis for inspiration and the 189

JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CItEMISTS TABLE V The Triads, or combination sequence of three florat etements Key Index Grouping Basic odour type 1 3/5/9 A Jasmin-neroli-rose ... Honeysuckle 2 3/5/13 B Jasmin-neroli-violet ... Laburnum 3 3/5/17 C Jasmin-neroli-lilac ... Corylopsis 4 3/5/21 D Jasmin-neroli-muguet ... Magnolia 5 3/9/13 E ]asmin-rose-violet ... Candyfait 6 3/9/17 F ]asmin-rose-lilac ...... Oleander 7 3/9/21 G Jasmin-rose-muguet ... Azalea -- 8 3/13 / 17 H ] asmin-violet-lilac ...... Rocket 9 3/13/21 I Jasmin-violet-muguet ... •aeony 10 3/17/21 J Jasmin-lilac-muguet ... Tobacco-flower 11 5/9/13 K Neroli-rose-violet ...... Cerinthe lg 5/9/17 L Neroli-rose-lilac ...... Apple Blossom 13 5/9/21 M Neroli-rose-muguet ... Wistaria 14 5/13/17 N Neroli-violet-lilac ...... Lotus 15 5/13/21 O Neroli-violet-muguet ... Clematis 16 5/17/21 P IxTeroli-lilac muguet ... Cowslip 17 9/13/17 Q I•ose~violet-lilac ...... Freesia 18 9/13/21 R Rose-violet-muguet ... Daphne 19 9/17/21 S Rose-lilac-muguet .., Night-scented Stock g0 13/17 [21 T Violet-lilac-muguet .. Cyclamen initial gathering of information for subsequent checking and enlarge- ment, I acknowledge my indebted- ness to the anonymous author of "Flora Domestica" (London 1823), and because the subject of "Scent in the Garden" is a somewhat elusive theme, I would add, for those who may care to extend their reading, that there is to be found in the yo,•rnal of the Royal Horticultural Society, contributions such as "Frag- grant Leaves and Sweet-Smelling Flowers" (October 1898), up to the most recent paper upon "Fragrance in the Garden," wkich was repro- duced in the August 1953 issue of Soap, Perfumery and Cosmetics. In F. A. Hampton's "Scent of Flowers and Leaves" (1925) will be found a bibliographical appendix to each of the twelve chapters, which is a particularly useful guide Mau- rice Maeterlinck's "Old-Faskioned Flowers" (1906) well repays a careful reading, but the abstracts of per- fumery potential to be gathered from the "Pot-Pourri from a Surrey 190