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]. Cosmet. Sci., 57, 23-35 CTanuary/February 2006) Comparative characterization of a wool-wax extract by two complementary chromatographic techniques ERIC JOVER, CARMEN DOMINGUEZ, PILAR ERRA, and JOSEP MARIA BAYONA, Environmental Chemistry Department (BJ., J.M.B.) and Surfactant Technology Department (C.D., P.E.), I.I.Q.A.B.-C.S.I.C., Jordi Girona 18-26, E-08034 Barcelona, Spain. Accepted for publication August 17, 2005. Synopsis A detailed characterization of lipids present in a wool-wax extract, obtained by supercritical fluid extraction, is presented. Thin-layer chromatography coupled to a flame ionization detector (TLC-FID) has been used as a screening technique to identify the different chemical classes of complex mixtures. Furthermore, to confirm peak identification obtained by TLC-FID and to check its suitability as a quality control technique, preparative TLC fractionation has been carried out by reanalyzing the different fractions obtained by TLC-FID and by gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry in the electron impact and in the chemical ionization modes. By means of this comparative study, the TLC-FID identification has been confirmed. Also, the complementarity of the different techniques used confirmed the identification of different lipid classes, namely fatty acids, alcohols, sterols, sterane diol, stanone, steryl sulphate, hydroxy- acids, alkane diols, aliphatic and steryl esters, hydroxy steryl esters, triacylglycerol, diesters, and ceramides types II and VI. INTRODUCTION Wool wax is secreted by the sebaceous glands of sheep to protect wool fibers from external aggressions. The analysis of wool-wax fractions, obtained by means of an etha- nol-modified supercritical carbon dioxide extraction by thin-layer chromatography coupled to a flame ionization detector (TLC-FID), reveals that wool wax is formed by a complex mixture of apolar and polar lipids (1). Lanolin, which is a refined fraction of wool wax, formed mainly by apolar lipids, is an important ingredient in many phar- maceutical and cosmetic products. This interest arises from the fact that lanolin and human skin lipids have similar properties. In this way, lanolin can act as a vehicle agent to transport active products through human skin (2). It also allows stabilization of high-water-content emulsions that are applied to increase skin hydration (3 ). Recently, there has been a growing interest in several lanolin constituents such as the long-chain Address all correspondence to Eric Jover. 23