J. Connet. Sci., 57, 69-70 Qanuary/February 2006) Abstracts International Journal of Cosmetic Science Vol. 27, No. 6, 2005* Rapid and Accurate Identification of Microorganisms Contaminating Cosmetic Products Based on DNA Sequence Homology Y. Fujita*, H. Shibayama*, Y. Suzuki*, S. Karita and S. Takamatsu *Toyo Beauty Co., Ltd, Osaka, Japan, Department of Sustainable Resource Sciences, Faculty of Bioresources, Mie University, Tsu, Japan and Laboratory of Plant Pathology, Faculty of Bioresources, Mie University, Tsu, Japan The aim of this study was to develop rapid and accurate procedures to identify microorganisms contaminating cosmetic products, based on the identity of the nucleotide sequences of the internal transcribed spacer (ITS) region of the ribosomal RNA coding DNA (rDNA). Five types of microorganisms were isolated from the inner portion of lotion bottle caps, skin care lotions, and cleansing gels. The rDN A ITS region of microorganisms was amplified through the use of colony-direct PCR or ordinal PCR using DNA extracts as templates. The nucleotide sequences of the amplified DNA were determined and subjected to homology search of a publicly available DNA database. Thereby, we obtained DNA sequences possessing high similarity with the query sequences from the databases of all the five organisms analyzed. The traditional identification procedure requires expert skills, and a time period of approximately 1 month to identify the microorganisms. On the contrary, 3-7 days were sufficient to complete all the procedures employed in the current method, including isolation and cultivation of organisms, DNA sequencing, and the database homology search. Moreover, it was possible to develop the skills necessary to perform the molecular techniques required for the identification procedures within 1 week. Consequently, the current method is useful for rapid and accurate identification of microorganisms, contaminating cosmetics. Influence of Cosmetics on Emotional, Autonomous, Endocrinological, and Immune Reactions P. Po"ssel*, S. Ahrens and M. Hautzinger *Department of Psychology and Human Development, Peabody College #512, Vanderbilt University, Nashville, TN, U.S.A. and _Department of Clinical and Physiological Psychology, University of Tuebingen, Tuebingen, Germany Recent findings indicate that cosmetics increase positive valence of emotions and thereby influence the autonomous nerve system. Other studies showed the effects of emotions on the endocrinological and the immune system. Based on this preliminary conclusion, the aim of the present study was to prove whether cosmetics are able to decrease the level of the stress hormone cortisol and strengthen the immune system. Four slides of made up or unvarnished women each, integrated in another 16 slides each of equivalent valence and arousal, were presented to 60 women. During stimulus presentation, subjective (valence), autonomous (heart rate), endocrinological (salivary cortisol) as well as immunological reactions [ secretory immunoglobulin A (sigA)] were recorded. As expected subjective ratings concerning the slides of made up women reported more positive valence than those concerning unvarnished women. Furthermore, heart rate decreased under presentation of made up women, which indicates the positive influence of these slides on the autonomous nerve system. Furthermore, in half of the volunteers a decrease of cortisol and an increase of sigA level while presenting the made up women was measurable in contrast to the presentation of unvarnished women. Maybe this is due to a short presentation time and the endocrinological as well as the immune system can be hardly influenced that quick. Another explanation could be that the volunteers were in part so called psychophysiological non-responders who show no reaction to emotional stimuli in the * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the journal of Cosmetic Science. 69

70 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE endocrinological and the immune system. It has to be considered that only the influence of visual stimuli and not the influence of social care ( e.g. positive statements of other, etc.), which is normally connected with the use of cosmetics, was assessed, so that these delineated positive results show the lower limit of cosmetic effects. 'Healthy Skin': Significance and Results of an Italian Study on Healthy Population with Particular Regard to 'Sensitive' Skin A Sparavigna*, A Di Pietro and M. Setaro* *Dermlng, Clinical Research and Bioengineering Institute, Monza, Milan, Italy and International Society of Plastic Dermatology (ISPLAD), Milan, Italy There is an increasing demand in general population regarding skin healthiness and improvement of aesthetical appearance, indicating that people require more information about how to treat healthy skin and to prevent skin disease. This study is the result of a campaign on healthy skin organized by the International Society of Plastic Dermatology. This campaign was at the same time an occasion to perform an epidemiological study on Italian population and was conducted during only one month (March 2004) throughout Italy. In total, 462 dermatologists all over Italy joined the project. Study protocol and diagnostic kits were provided to all adhering dermatologists. After signing an informed consent, subjects were assigned to undergo anamnesis, medical examination and stinging test with 10% lactic acid at the level of nasolabial fold. A total of 2101 duly compiled case record forms were sent back by the dermatologists. The analysis of the demographic features and lifestyle of the subjects who were attracted by the campaign allows us to draw the identikit of people interested in the maintenance of a healthy skin, i.e. mainly young women, who already lead a healthy life and took care of their skin. Sensitive skin was common in this healthy population. The Biology of Facial Beauty B. Fink* and N. Neave *Department for Sociobiology/ Anthropology, Institute for Zoology & Anthropology, University of Goettingen, Goettingen, Germany and Human Cognitive Neuroscience Unit, School of Psychology and Sport Sciences, Northumbria University, Newcastle upon Tyne, U.K. It was once widely believed that standards of beauty were arbitrarily variable. Recent research suggests, however, that people's views of facial attractiveness are remarkably consistent, regardless of race, nationality or age. Facial characteristics are known to influence human attractiveness judgements and evolutionary psychologists suggest that these characteristics all pertain to health, leading to the conclusion that humans have evolved to view certain bodily features as attractive because the features were displayed by healthy others. Here we review some of the fundamental principles of sexual selection theory that apply to human beauty and summarize the major findings of human beauty perception. Sexual Differentiation in Sensitivity to Male Body Odor Y. Tokunaga*, Y. Omoto*, T. Sangu*, M. Miyazaki, R. Kon* and K. Takada* *Beauty-Care Research Laboratories and Process Development Research Center, Lion Corporation, 13- 12 Hirai 7-Chome, Edogawa-Ku, Tokyo, 132-0035 Japan We have confirmed that more female subjects than male subjects evaluate male body odor as significantly unpleasant. Through an investigation on sexual differentiation in sensitivity to male body odor, we concluded that one of the volatile steroids, androstenone, had two effects on female olfactory sense. First, female subjects perceived androstenone itself to be more unpleasant than male subjects. Second, for only female subjects, androstenone, at a concentration of one-tenth of detection threshold, enhanced the intensity and unpleasantness of body-odor constituents such as short-chain fatty acids. A Very Promising New Glucolipidic Surfactant: LipowheatTM A Djedour*, C. Lafforgue, J.P. Marty and J.L. Grossiord* *Laboratoire de Physique Pharmaceutique, UMR CNRS 8612, Universite' Paris Sud, 5, rue Jean-baptiste Cle'ment, 92296 Cha'tenay-Malabry, France and Laboratoire de Dermopharmacologie et Cosme'tologie, Universite' Paris Sud, 5, rue Jeanbaptiste Cle'ment, 92296 Cha'tenay-Malabry, France LipowheatTM is an entirely biodegradable 100% natural active ingredient, extracted from nontransgenic wheat. Thanks to its very interesting properties, it can integrate the composition of most cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. The aim of this work was first to realize a large range of stable simple or multiple emulsions, in order to determine and evaluate the ability of a new glucolipidic surfactant LipowheatTM to form and stabilize emulsions. The rheological properties of these emulsions were tested during a 30- day storage period at three different storage conditions ( cold, room temperature and at 40 _ C). In addition to dynamic and static rheological tests, droplet size distribution of the cream was also determined. Furthermore, a stable simple emulsion was selected to realize percutaneous absorption and evaluate the properties of LipowheatTM.