JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS TABLE VII Cyctic version of Table V showing its progressions ,, Key Index Grouping Basic Odour Type 3/5/9 A Jasminmeroli-rose ...... Honeysuckle 5/9/13 Ii Neroli-rose-violet ...... Cerinthe 9 / 13 / 17 Q I•o se-violet-lilac ......... Freesia 13/17121 T Violet-lilac-muguet ...... Cyclamen 17/21/3 J Lilac-muguet-jasmin ...... Tobacco-flower 21/3/5 D Muguet-jasmin-neroli ...... Magnolia 3/5/13 B Jasmin-neroli-violet ...... Laburnum 5/13/21 O Neroli-violet-mu guet ...... Clematis 13 [21/9 [R Violet-muguet-rose ...... Daphne 21/9/5 M Muguet-rose-neroli ...... Wistaria 9/5/17 L I•ose-neroli-lilac ......... Apple Blossom 5/17/21 P Neroli-lilac-muguet ...... Cowslip 17/21/9 S Lilac-muguet-rose ...... Night-scented Stock 21/9/3 G Muguet-rose-jasmin ...... Azalea 9/•/17 F I•ose-jasmin-lilac ...... Oleander 3 / 17/13 H Jasmin-lilac-violet ...... I•ocket 17 / 13/5 N Lilac-violet-neroli ...... Lotus 21 [3113 I Mu guet-j asmin-violet ...... Paeo ny 3/13/9 E Jasmin-violet-rose ...... Candytuft ,, , 17/5]3 C Lilac-neroli-jasmin ....... Corylopsis ,, medial and terminal elements of the first member of a progression becom- ing the initial and medial of the second, and so on. Thus, as with the twenty-one components of the Adjuvant cycle, as described in the previous article on the Non-Floral Perfumes, the resultant odour tone of any one group is linked to the preceding as well as the subsequent member. From Table VII it is seen that the initial progression starting with (A) Jasmin-neroli-rose (Honeysuckle) proceeds by 17 steps to (N) Lilac- violet-neroli (Lotus) and then diverts to new combinations, namely, (I) Muguet-jasmin-violet (Paeony) and (C) Lilac-neroli-jasmin (Corylopsis), which also move forward by 18 and 17 stages respectively before con- cluding and showing further "left- over" combinations for similar con- sideration. This procedure can, of course, be continued until the starting-point is again encountered, so no useful purpose is served by unnecessary enlargement upon these sequences. Two items of interest, nevertheless, emerge, namely, the parallel of gradual alteration in simple design, as is observed in the mechanics of weaving, in which, by the intermit- tent change of different coloured threads for the warp, a series of striped patterns are obtained and, further, it is noted that the "non- sequentials" from the first progres- sion in Table VI (and from the second 192

SIMPLE FLORAL PERFUMES : and third versions, not given here) represent a particularly intriguing series of blossom odours for the per- ' fumer to exercise his skill upon, namely, {1) Paeony, c. andytuft and corylopsis (2) Night-scented stock and laburnum, and (3) Azalea and : rocket. Before presenting the conclusions which I think can be drawn from :the interweaving of the six basic floral odours, I would revert to the •: tertiary colours, citrine, russet and olive, because these are largely representative of the dull neutral background in Nature, and some- thing akin to this neutrality I have experimental reason to think arises from the admixture of the "warm" and "cold" perfume elements and, although it may be agreed that our understanding of tlfis arbitrary tem- perature rating is perhaps somewhat vague, this is probably due to the fact that we "sense" rather than "smell" the q,tality which we name as warmth or freshness nevertheless this acquired ability serves a very useful purpose, as does litmus paper --it demarcates. In the final rearrangement of my impressions of what is osmically evolved from basic odour admixture, as shown in Table VIII, can be seen what I believe to be true of the blossom perfumes in Nature--from the homely woodland plant, the domestic and cultivated varieties TABLE VIII Showing the temperament and segregation into two major odour classes 3 warm units The Jasmin-lKose Group ......... A Honeysuckle 2 warm units and 1 cold unit K Cerinthe D Magnolia t3 Laburnum IV[ Wistaria L Apple Blossom G Azalea F Oleander C Corylopsis E Candytuft The Violet-Lily Group 1 warm unit and 2 cold units ß .. Q o P s H I Freesia Tobacco-flower Clematis Daphne Cowslip Night-Scented Stock Rocket Paeony 3 cold units ......... T Cyclamen 193