JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CItEMISTS TABLE V The Triads, or combination sequence of three florat etements Key Index Grouping Basic odour type 1 3/5/9 A Jasmin-neroli-rose ... Honeysuckle 2 3/5/13 B Jasmin-neroli-violet ... Laburnum 3 3/5/17 C Jasmin-neroli-lilac ... Corylopsis 4 3/5/21 D Jasmin-neroli-muguet ... Magnolia 5 3/9/13 E ]asmin-rose-violet ... Candyfait 6 3/9/17 F ]asmin-rose-lilac ...... Oleander 7 3/9/21 G Jasmin-rose-muguet ... Azalea -- 8 3/13 / 17 H ] asmin-violet-lilac ...... Rocket 9 3/13/21 I Jasmin-violet-muguet ... •aeony 10 3/17/21 J Jasmin-lilac-muguet ... Tobacco-flower 11 5/9/13 K Neroli-rose-violet ...... Cerinthe lg 5/9/17 L Neroli-rose-lilac ...... Apple Blossom 13 5/9/21 M Neroli-rose-muguet ... Wistaria 14 5/13/17 N Neroli-violet-lilac ...... Lotus 15 5/13/21 O Neroli-violet-muguet ... Clematis 16 5/17/21 P IxTeroli-lilac muguet ... Cowslip 17 9/13/17 Q I•ose~violet-lilac ...... Freesia 18 9/13/21 R Rose-violet-muguet ... Daphne 19 9/17/21 S Rose-lilac-muguet .., Night-scented Stock g0 13/17 [21 T Violet-lilac-muguet .. Cyclamen initial gathering of information for subsequent checking and enlarge- ment, I acknowledge my indebted- ness to the anonymous author of "Flora Domestica" (London 1823), and because the subject of "Scent in the Garden" is a somewhat elusive theme, I would add, for those who may care to extend their reading, that there is to be found in the yo,•rnal of the Royal Horticultural Society, contributions such as "Frag- grant Leaves and Sweet-Smelling Flowers" (October 1898), up to the most recent paper upon "Fragrance in the Garden," wkich was repro- duced in the August 1953 issue of Soap, Perfumery and Cosmetics. In F. A. Hampton's "Scent of Flowers and Leaves" (1925) will be found a bibliographical appendix to each of the twelve chapters, which is a particularly useful guide Mau- rice Maeterlinck's "Old-Faskioned Flowers" (1906) well repays a careful reading, but the abstracts of per- fumery potential to be gathered from the "Pot-Pourri from a Surrey 190

SIMPLE FLORAL PERFUMES Garden" series by Mrs. C. W. Earle (1892-1914) can cover many pages of the commonplace notebook. If to these is added a prelimin- ary excursion through the "Alpine Flowers and Gardens," and also the "Flower Fidds of Alpine Switzer- land," by G. Flemwell (1911)--the subject begins to become highly specialised, particularly when, in conclusion, one turns to the grouping of chosen blossoms, not only for decorative display, but for the simultaneous blending of harmonious fragrances. It is here that this fur- ther vista is beautifully illustrated and appreciatively described by Ella and Florence Du Cane in the "Flowers of Japan" (1908). It will therefore be noted that, in an expression of personal osmical sentiments, I have been guided by a theoretical consensus of opinion, sounded out by conversations with nursery gardeners, Visits to Kew and the R.H.S. Gardens and, above all, by laboratory work and the finality of the smelling-slip. FLORAL 0DOUR PERMUTATIONS To revert, however, to the theme of floral odour permutation, it will be seen from the initial presentation in Table V that the change-ringing simplifies itself to the arrangement shown in Table VI. Other rearrangements are possible, of course, but these tend towards partial shiftings and "mirror images" and do not show the simple numerical transition of the indices so clearly. When, however, an attempt is made at a cyclic presentation of this data, as is seen in Table VII, then I think that something of the "mechanics of perfumery" can be observed as, for instance, with the forward movement of the ratchet and toothed wheel in a numbering mach- ine, which concludes after a certain series of changes has been made and is then manually reset to commence a new sequence. In this way I believe that a partial version of floral nomenclature for these three-fold basic odour com- binations can be constructed, the TABLE VI Jasmin-neroli ...... 4 versions Jasmin-rose ...... 3 ,, Jasmin-violet ...... 2 ,, Jasmin-lilac ...... 1 ,, lXleroli-rose ...... 3 ,, Neroli-violet ...... 2 Neroli-lilac ...... 1 ,, III l•ose-violet ...... 2 l•ose-lilac ...... 1 , IV Violet-lilac ...... 1 ,, Total ß 10 units 6 units 3 units 1 unit 20 units 191