JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS --the glycines or bujacies. The fragrance of the blossoms of this alba or white species closely approaches that of the fundamentals of the honeysuckle and clematis, but re- quires a little backnote support from tuberose and cyclamen. (L) APPLE BLOSSOM. This is included within this group because it is evident, from many perfumery catalogues, that the apple blossom fragrance finds a growing accept- ance, particularly in America. It is noteworthy that the floral calendar in Japan follows a beautiful sequence of these short-lived "con- fetti" or "snow-flake" fruit-tree blossoms--the plum, peach and cherry--the fragrance of which, in- cluding that of the apple, apricot and pear, can be achieved in com- parative simplicity by carefully balanced variations upon the rose- neroli-lilac theme, appropriately shaded with hawthorn, mimosa and ylang. (P) COWSLIP. The Prim•la veris, common cow's-lip or paigle (French: la primertire). It is remarkable that such small blossoms are able to exude so powerful and last- ing a fragrance, which incidentally is rapidly imparted to dilute spirit after a few minutes' maceration. The odour pattern can, I think, be found in the lily-lilac complex in which the neroli is subdued, but in the cultivated varieties, for instance, the P. japonica or the P. rosaL some slight assistance from the wintergreen and clover salicylates is a necessary adjunct. If clary sage is used instead, then a very close simulation to the deeper-toned fragrance of the P. elatior--the Ox-lip, results. (S) NIGHT-SCENTED STOCK. The Stock-gilliflowers (French: girofide de Mahon, des jardins Viollet d'6t•, or •fatthiola annua) present an intriguing gamut of fragrance, the fundamentals of which are somewhat elusive, as this would seem to partake somewhat of the rose-jasmin of honeysuckle, and the muguet-lilac from the tobacco-flower, as well as some elements from the cowslip. Expressed in its simplest units, how- ever, lilac, lily and •rose provide a good foundation, to which the addi- tion of the hawthorn-mimosa top- notes of apple-blossom rounds off the bouquet in a very pleasing manner. (G) AZALEA. I can find no satis- factory reason for these beautiful shrubby plants, with their richly coloured, highly fragrant bell-shaped flowers, deriving their name from the Greek word--azaleos, meaning dry. The plant is a native of the Far East, as well as of N. America, and some indication of the perfume can be observed in such common names as Mayflower, and the wild, upright or American Honeysuckle. The flowers, single and double, are of many col- ours (for instance, A. indica, a brilliant crimson, and A. pontica, a bright yellow), but for the greatest beauty in colour and fragrance the A. sinensis is regarded in Japan as the sweetest-s.melling of the innumer- able varieties, for the cultivation of which special gardens are maintained. In a general way, the floral com- position shows the elements of muguet, rose and jasmin, almost any 198

SIMPLE FLORAL PERFUMES proportion of which will yield a .... .: recognisable azalea perfume, but embellishment with traces of cycla- men and hyacinth is advantageous. (F) OLEANDER. The Oleander (nerium) is usually described as a ... flowering shrub belonging to the ,'!i:: Apocynaca, having long dark green leaves and fragrant white, cream or : rose-coloured flowers. As a species, the oleanders are closely allied to the Rhododendrons and are some- times called Rose Bay, or in French, laurier-rose. The white-flowered variety, usually known as Rhododaphne, may be taken as a typical example for fragrance, and this particularly sweet-scented species may be emu- lated by a careful blending of rose, jasmin and lilac, in which the rose is dominant. (H) ROCKET. The double sweet- rocket, Hesperis rnatronalis, and H. violacea• or 14. tristis, derive their name from Hesperis, the Greek for "Evening Star," which introduces another species renowned for their nocturnal fragrance. From the common names in English--Dame's violets or Damask- violets' Queen's- or Winter-gilli- flowers, and in French, la Jullane de nuit la giro fide musqude, or la violette des damesmir will be remarked that the violet element is evidently prominent, and this, when supported by lilac and a fairly large proportion of jasmin, completes a close simulation of la cassolette or the "smelling-bottle," as it is some- times known on the continent. (N) LOTUS. These Nymphtea, "Queens of the aquatic flora," need a brief introduction because, from the perfumery angie, little seems extant. The N. alba, or white water-lily, fairly common in England, is scent- less, but the more prolific yellow Nufer luteurn has a somewhat re- markable country name, namely, "brandy-bottle," partly because the seed vessel is somewhat flagon- shaped, but particularly because this plant exhales a peculiarly musty- oenanthic odour. Incidentally, both these blooms nestle in the water upon their broad leaves. For a deeper appreciation of the oriental sister plants, the Nelumbo, one must turn to the graphic descrip- tions of Lafcadio Hearn, and other writers upon the floriculture of Japan, but briefly the "basu (or hasu) no hana" (or the "flower of the lotus") standing by contrast high out of the water, lasts but a day before dropping its petals, each morning bringing fresh buds, and this changing glory of fresh flowers lasting well over six weeks. It is the pink shades of the Lotus which attract the sightseers (in Japan) although these blooms are practically odourless. It is to the white variety that the almost over- powering perfume is due. I am of the opinion that this fragrance can be closely matched by a lilac foundation (based as previ- ously mentioned upon cyclamen) with the combined t9pnote fullness of violet and neroli, but there is one aspect of the perfume which I think worthy of supplementing. by quoting Florence du Cane's impres- 199