62 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE florin reduced the tail moment by 41 %, 25%, and 28%, respectively. The degree of prevention did not show any concentration dependencies, but our data clearly show that topical application of PF in concentrations more than 0.01 % could reduce the damage caused by UVR in vivo, with statistical significance. This in vivo data coincides with those obtained from cultured human keratinocytes and suggests that topical use of a cosmetic preparation containing PF could efficiently protect the skin from UV-induced DNA damage and eventually from photoaging. CLINICAL TRIAL From an eight-week clinical study with 0.5% PF cream, it was found that there was a statistically significant reduction (p 0.05) in wrinkles after eight weeks of sample application. Figure 3 demonstrates the anti-wrinkle effect of PF cream. As shown in Figure 4, the 0.5% PF cream reduced surface roughness by 7 .51 % and 17 .65% after four and eight weeks of sample application, respectively. The control cream, on the other hand, did not effect any changes in wrinkles. The difference in the degree of wrinkle reduction between the control and PF creams was statistically sig- nificant only after eight weeks of application (p 0.05 ). Figure 5 shows the typical three-dimensional images from one volunteer's skin, before (A,C) and after (B,D) trial. We can see marked reductions in both the number and the depth of wrinkles by treatment with 0.5% PF cream (A,B). Treatment with the control cream, however, effected no remarkable changes in the skin (C,D). In addition to theses instrumental assessments, we also had a statistically significant reduction in wrinkles, evaluated by a dermatologist with 13-scale grades (p 0.05 at eight weeks, data not shown). There is so much evidence concerning the relationship between oxidative stress and premature skin aging, and UVR is regarded as the most potent causative agent. In this context, it is believed that blocking the action of UVR by means of sunscreens or 40 (]) 30 () 20 -- !..... cr 10 :::, (f) Cl) ._ C Cl) ·- � 0 Cl) C (]) ..c -10 Cl) Cl) :::, -20 CO 0 !..... -30 � -40 -50 _______________ Q Ow 3.09 4w -+-Placebo �PF Cream -0.23 -17 .65 Bw Figure 4. Anti-wrinkle activity of 0.5% PF cream. The % changes in surface roughness with time, measured by low-coherence interferometry, are indicated as mean ± S.D. (n = 20). Asterisk (*) indicates statistical significance (p 0.05).
PROTEC T1VE Efl◄ECT ◄ OF P AEONll◄LORlN 3 Figure 5. 3D images obtained from s ·in replicas of one volunteer. (.A,C) "before treatment." (B,D) "after treatment." (A,B) sample treatment. (C,D) placebo treatment. topically uppliecl anti-o. idants could prevent the symptoms of ski11 aging, especially the fi rnrntion , , f wrink l ·s O ) ... rarting from rh . _ id as, we developed a new cosmetic ,1Cliv in rrcdicnr, pnnially p 1rificd paeoniflorn. .1t was primarily tL rgeted to preve11t cdlular senc. cence bernus. of i s inhibitory acti ity on J3-galactosidast:, but we mainly f cus, d o irs protective,,. ntioxidacive properties. :c far, w� hav� reported the protective eHecrs f PF on 0 iclativ D1 TA damage and the anti-wrinkle efect, f hut the exact me hanism by ,vhich PP ex .rts its effects stiU remains to be elucidated. CONCUJ"JON In this study, we have developed a new cosmetic it gredient, parcial.l y purified paeoni- florin (PF), from the root of Paeoniae lactiflm·.,J which has lon.g been u •,�d as a Chin se medicinal herb. We evaluated che protective effe t of PF, and om resuhs clearly show that the p.artiall purified paeoniflorin, with its potential anti-oxidative properties, prevented DVB-induced DNA damage both in cul ured human keratinocytes and hair- less mouse skin. Furthermore, when a cosmetic pr paration containing 0.5% PF was topicaUy applied to human skin for eight \-..' .k , chcrc \1.ras a srariscically significant decre��e in facial \;\'tinkle . Our dma suggest tha par ially purified pa oniflorin could be used a ,1 cosmetic ingredienr for general anti-aging purposes or for reduct.ion in ,vrinklc R Eir◄ER El TCE. .. (1) L. H. Kligman, Photo�ging: 1-hnifestations, prevention, and treatment, D 'l'tJMtol. Clin., ·, 517-528 (1986).
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