70 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE endocrinological and the immune system. It has to be considered that only the influence of visual stimuli and not the influence of social care ( e.g. positive statements of other, etc.), which is normally connected with the use of cosmetics, was assessed, so that these delineated positive results show the lower limit of cosmetic effects. 'Healthy Skin': Significance and Results of an Italian Study on Healthy Population with Particular Regard to 'Sensitive' Skin A Sparavigna*, A Di Pietro and M. Setaro* *Dermlng, Clinical Research and Bioengineering Institute, Monza, Milan, Italy and International Society of Plastic Dermatology (ISPLAD), Milan, Italy There is an increasing demand in general population regarding skin healthiness and improvement of aesthetical appearance, indicating that people require more information about how to treat healthy skin and to prevent skin disease. This study is the result of a campaign on healthy skin organized by the International Society of Plastic Dermatology. This campaign was at the same time an occasion to perform an epidemiological study on Italian population and was conducted during only one month (March 2004) throughout Italy. In total, 462 dermatologists all over Italy joined the project. Study protocol and diagnostic kits were provided to all adhering dermatologists. After signing an informed consent, subjects were assigned to undergo anamnesis, medical examination and stinging test with 10% lactic acid at the level of nasolabial fold. A total of 2101 duly compiled case record forms were sent back by the dermatologists. The analysis of the demographic features and lifestyle of the subjects who were attracted by the campaign allows us to draw the identikit of people interested in the maintenance of a healthy skin, i.e. mainly young women, who already lead a healthy life and took care of their skin. Sensitive skin was common in this healthy population. The Biology of Facial Beauty B. Fink* and N. Neave *Department for Sociobiology/ Anthropology, Institute for Zoology & Anthropology, University of Goettingen, Goettingen, Germany and Human Cognitive Neuroscience Unit, School of Psychology and Sport Sciences, Northumbria University, Newcastle upon Tyne, U.K. It was once widely believed that standards of beauty were arbitrarily variable. Recent research suggests, however, that people's views of facial attractiveness are remarkably consistent, regardless of race, nationality or age. Facial characteristics are known to influence human attractiveness judgements and evolutionary psychologists suggest that these characteristics all pertain to health, leading to the conclusion that humans have evolved to view certain bodily features as attractive because the features were displayed by healthy others. Here we review some of the fundamental principles of sexual selection theory that apply to human beauty and summarize the major findings of human beauty perception. Sexual Differentiation in Sensitivity to Male Body Odor Y. Tokunaga*, Y. Omoto*, T. Sangu*, M. Miyazaki, R. Kon* and K. Takada* *Beauty-Care Research Laboratories and Process Development Research Center, Lion Corporation, 13- 12 Hirai 7-Chome, Edogawa-Ku, Tokyo, 132-0035 Japan We have confirmed that more female subjects than male subjects evaluate male body odor as significantly unpleasant. Through an investigation on sexual differentiation in sensitivity to male body odor, we concluded that one of the volatile steroids, androstenone, had two effects on female olfactory sense. First, female subjects perceived androstenone itself to be more unpleasant than male subjects. Second, for only female subjects, androstenone, at a concentration of one-tenth of detection threshold, enhanced the intensity and unpleasantness of body-odor constituents such as short-chain fatty acids. A Very Promising New Glucolipidic Surfactant: LipowheatTM A Djedour*, C. Lafforgue, J.P. Marty and J.L. Grossiord* *Laboratoire de Physique Pharmaceutique, UMR CNRS 8612, Universite' Paris Sud, 5, rue Jean-baptiste Cle'ment, 92296 Cha'tenay-Malabry, France and Laboratoire de Dermopharmacologie et Cosme'tologie, Universite' Paris Sud, 5, rue Jeanbaptiste Cle'ment, 92296 Cha'tenay-Malabry, France LipowheatTM is an entirely biodegradable 100% natural active ingredient, extracted from nontransgenic wheat. Thanks to its very interesting properties, it can integrate the composition of most cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. The aim of this work was first to realize a large range of stable simple or multiple emulsions, in order to determine and evaluate the ability of a new glucolipidic surfactant LipowheatTM to form and stabilize emulsions. The rheological properties of these emulsions were tested during a 30- day storage period at three different storage conditions ( cold, room temperature and at 40 _ C). In addition to dynamic and static rheological tests, droplet size distribution of the cream was also determined. Furthermore, a stable simple emulsion was selected to realize percutaneous absorption and evaluate the properties of LipowheatTM.

]. Cosmet. Sci.J 57, 71-72 CTanuary/February 2006) Abstracts IFSCC Magazine Vol. 8, No. 4, 2005* Nanoscale Imaging and Quantification of the Impact of Covalently Linked Lipids on the Hair's Surface Gustavo S. Luengo, Philippe Hallegot, Frederic Leroy L'Oreal Recherche, Aulnay sous Bois, France The role of 18-methyleicosanoic acid was explored using atomic force microscopy techniques. Treatment with a delipidating agent (hydroxylamine) did not change the hair's morphology but dramatically changed its surface tribological properties, providing a high resolution mapping of the delipidation effect and confirming the importance of the presence of this fatty acid. Using nanolithography we were able to gently scratch the outermost surface layer of hair. The obtained depth of penetration remained constant (12-45 A) and was very close to the average length of the 18-methyl-eicosanoic acid molecule, supporting the assumed model of an ordered monolayer of 18- methyleicosanoic acid on the surface. Taken together, our results suggest that the lipid covering or its grafting strength may not be evenly distributed over the hair surface. The possibilities of combining nanolithography and an analytical method like time of flight secondary ion mass spectroscopy (ToF-SIMS) are discussed. Simultaneous Enhancement of Cosmetic Function and Feel via Molecular Investigation of Stickiness Hiroki Kudoh 1 , Hirokazu lyanagi 2 , Kenichi Yoshizawa 3 , Sayuri Okura3, Katsuhiko Nakamae4 1 Skincare Products R&D Department, POLA Chemical Industries, Inc., 27-1, Takashimadai, Kanagawa-ku, Yokohama, Japan 2 Makeup Products R&D Department, POLA Chemical Industries, Inc., Japan 3 Quality Design&Assurance R&D Department, POLA Chemical Industries, Inc., Japan 4 Japan Synchrotron Radiation Research Institute, Japan Moisturizing performance is often a very important factor in cosmetics. However, incorporating high concentrations of moisturizing agents often causes products to become sticky, a feel that consumers dislike. We suspected that the reason why high moisturizer content generates strong stickiness is that the polar group of the molecule is exposed at the surface. Thus, we began with a hypothesis that stickiness could be prevented through coexistence with a substance minimizing the exposure of polar group. Using glycerin as a moisturizing agent, we screened a large number of conventional materials for reducing stickiness but failed to find an effective compound. We then considered the use of a polymer for this purpose and synthesized a custom-made polymer, polyoxyethylene methacrylate 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate fluoroalkyl acrylate copolymer (Polymer SR). Our experiments revealed that Polymer SR reduces the stickiness of glycerin by forming a hydrophobic film without hindering moisturizing performance. To clarify the mechanism by which Polymer SR reduces stickiness, we investigated the interaction between the Polymer SR and glycerin in solution using NMR and static light scattering measurements. We learned that Polymer SR and glycerin form a complex via hydrogen bonding of glycerin that results in orientation of the hydrophobic group of Polymer SR towards the outside. Subjective sensory tests supported the hypothesis that this hydrophobic orientation was maintained on the dermal surface even after application to skin. We believe that by taking into account the intended function and feel our technique for reducing the stickiness of moisturizers can be adopted for use with other substances and will contribute to future cosmetic research. Control of Melanosome Transfer by Promoting Shrinkage or Expansion ofMelanocyte Dendrites Akihiro Tada, Akiko Kanamaru, Yuko Ito POLA Laboratories, POLA Chemical Industries, Inc., 560 Kashio-cho, Totsuka-ku, Yokohama 244-0812, Japan Melanosomes synthesized within melanocytes are transferred to keratinocytes through melanocyte dendrites, resulting in a constant supply of melanin to the epidermis which determines skin pigmentation. Theoretically, if we can find an effective way to control this supply of melanin * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 71