2008 TRI/PRINCETON CONFERENCE 193 The average changes in shine values of hair samples treated with these two conditioners are shown in Figure 9. It is interesting to note that the Q-91 conditioner W/O PBEM only improved the hair shine for bleached hair but reduced hair for other type of hair samples. The shine improvement for bleached hair may be attributed to the deposited Figure 6. Changes in average hair shine values after shine shampoo treatment. Figure 7. Change in apparent cuticle angle after shine shampoo treatment. Figure 8. Change in hair shine values after shine conditioner treatment alone.
JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 194 conditioning agent on the damaged hair surface. It is clear that addition of PBEM to the Q-91 conditioner gave improved hair shine performance to all tested hair samples the average shine index values increased about 5% for bleached, blond, and Asian black hair. Statistical analysis showed that these changes were signifi cant. We also examined changes in average apparent cuticle angle of hair samples after different treatments (Figure 10). It is clear that addition of PBEM to the conditioner formula not only improved hair shine but also increased surface smoothness of treated hair. ENHANCEMENT IN HAIR SHINE AND SMOOTHNESS BY PBEM HAIR SPRAY Previously, using shine box experiments, we examined hair tresses treated with a commercial hair spray with and without additional 2% of PBEM, and found that the formula containing additional PBEM outperformed the original formula (7). By using the SAMBA system, we further confi rmed the shine enhancement effect of PBEM. PBEM hair spray formula consisted of a mixture of 45% PBEM and 55% Cyclomethicone (DC345 Fluid from Dow Corning, USA). Each hair tress was treated with 50 μl of prod- uct per gram of hair, and we examined the shine enhancement of the hair spray on light bleached and medium brown hair. The results are presented in Figures 11 and 12. It is apparent that the hair spray formula with PBEM enhanced the hair shine (higher shine value) and improved the surface smoothness (lower apparent cuticle angle value). Table IV Tested Conditioner Compositions Composition Q-91 Conditioner Q-91 Conditioner with PBEM Quaternium-91 (and) cetrimonium methosulfate (and) cetearyl alcohol 2.14% 2.14% Cetearyl alcohol 3.86% 3.86% PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate (PBEM) 0 2.0% Phenoxyethanol and propyl paraben and butyl paraben and methyl paraben and ethyl paraben 1.00 1.00 DI water 93.0% 91.0% Figure 9. Change in hair shine values after conditioner treatment
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