2008 TRI/PRINCETON CONFERENCE 197 PBEM to a Quaternium-91 conditioner formula provided improved hair shine and smoothness. We also saw shine improvements on bleached, Asian black, medium brown, and dark brown hairs by a commercial shine shampoo. The results also showed that sham- poos are more effective in hair shine enhancement than the corresponding conditioners. ACKNOWLEDGMENT We thank Croda Inc Application group for preparation of the hair spray and conditioner samples. REFERENCES (1) Crodamol STS (INCI name: PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate) is covered by U.S. Patents No. 7,217,424 and 6,987,195 assigned to Croda Inc.. (2) P. Clemenceau, S. Breugnot, and B. Pouet, In vivo quantitative evaluation of gloss, Cosmet. Toiletr., 119(10), 71–78 (2004). (3) J. M. Lim, M. Y. Chang, M. E. Park, T. J. Kwak, J. J. Kim, and C. K. Lee, A study correlating between instrumental and consumers’ subjective luster values in oriental hair tresses, J. Cosmet. Sci., 57, 475–485 (2006). (4) R. F. Stamm, M. L. Garcia, and J. J. Fuchs, The optical properties of human hair. II. The luster of hair fi ber, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 28, 601–609 (1977). (5) C. Reich and C. R. Robbins, Light scattering and luster measurements of human hair: A sensitive probe of the hair surface, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 44, 221–234 (1993). (6) F. J. Wortmann, E. Schulze zur Wiesche, and B. Bourceau, Analyzing the laser-light refl ection from human hair fi bers. II. Deriving a measure of hair luster, J. Cosmet. Sci., 55, 81–93 (2004). (7) T. Gao, A. Pereira, and P. Obukowho, A new multifunctional, shine-enhancing emollient: PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate, J. Cosmet. Sci., 55(Suppl.), S143–S150 (2004).
J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 199–204 (March/April 2009) 199 Experiments in Raman spectroscopy of hair: Exciting light and molecular orientation PAUL CARPENTER and FRASER BELL, Unilever R&D–Port Sunlight, Quarry Road East, Bebington, Wirral, CH63 3JW, U.K. Synopsis Hair fi bers have been analyzed by Raman spectroscopy to assess the suitability of a range of excitation wave- lengths for data collection over extended periods of time. It is found that the optimum excitation wavelength for spectral detail, of these tested, was 780 nm and that this wavelength resulted in little signal degradation over time. It was found that with higher energy excitation sources that the signal intensity of the spectra degraded signifi cantly in short periods of time. This work suggests that near-IR Raman spectroscopy there- fore offers the most suitable conditions to analyze the nature of secondary structural feature in hair fi bers. In addition, a preliminary exploration of the structural orientation of spectral features of the hair was at- tempted. Through the use of a linearly polarized excitation source the intensity of the Raman spectral fea- tures were observed to change as the alignment of the fi ber axis with respect to the plane of polarization was changed. It was found that the spectral features associated with the α-helical vibrations decreased in intensity as the fi ber axis was rotated from an orientation parallel to the exciting beam. INTRODUCTION Sensorial properties of hair, specifi cally the tactile and visual attributes, are related pri- marily to the surface morphology and mechanical properties of single hair fi bers. Reliable quantifi cation of fi ber properties at various length scales is therefore critical in the predic- tion of sensorial behavior within the personal care industry. In particular, characterization of fi bers at the micron and sub-micron scale—correlating local mechanical properties with chemical composition—will lead to an improved understanding of the behavior of hair, and will assist in the design and development of hair care technologies. Raman spectroscopy is a technique commonly used to study vibrational, rotational and other frequency dependent structural motion within simple and complex molecular sys- tems. The technique is commonly used in protein chemistry as the vibrational informa- tion is specifi c for different chemical bonds and environments within molecules but also has applications for the exploration of protein fi lms, and as in the experiments detailed below, protein fi bers. A wide range of physical processes and chemical and treatments alter the tactile and visual characteristics of hair and these high order changes have been reported to be accompanied by changes in the frictional properties, chemical composition and mechanical response.
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