2008 TRI/PRINCETON CONFERENCE 113 For the negative control, a leave-in product, was not rinsed. All hair tresses were air dried in a conditioned room overnight (21°C and 65% RH). CARE MATERIALS The extra moisturizing conditioner is a marketed product with the following ingredient list: water, stearyl alcohol, cyclopenta siloxane, cetyl alcohol, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, dimethicone, Vanilla planifolia fruit extract, Cocos nucifera milk (coconut), fragrance, glutamic acid, benzyl alcohol, EDTA, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, citric acid, and Blue 1. The 2-in-1 shampoo is a marketed product with the following ingredient list: water, ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, glycol distearate, cocamide MEA, dimethicone, ammonium xylenesulfonate, citric acid, fragrance, panthenol, pan- thenyl ethyl ether, cetyl alcohol, polyquaternium 10, disodium EDTA, PEG 7M, sodium chloride, sodium citrate, sodium benzoate, methylchloroisothiazolinone, and methylisothiazolinone. The leave-in conditioner is a marketed product with the following ingredient list: water, cetearyl alcohol, amodimethicone, cetyl esters, behentrimonium chloride, perfume (fra- grance), methylparaben, Persea gratissima (avocado oil), Trideceth 12, citric acid, Prunus armeniaca (apricot kernel oil), cetrimonium chloride, chlorhexidine dihydrochloride, linalool, butylphenyl methylpropional, and citronellol. DAMAGE METHODS Both mechanical and UV damage were produced. The mechanical damage was accom- plished by performing 20,000 strokes with a mechanical comber. UV damage was pro- duced by exposing hair to a solar simulator (Q-Sun 3100, Q-Lab Corp.) with irradiance of 0.68W/m2, approximately equivalent to noon-day sun at a latitude of 25° 48′ N, similar to Miami. Hair was exposed for 8 hours and then washed and dried as described above in the method labeled care. Table I Shine Control Sample Description Sample name Description Base color (L*, a*, b*) Treatment VU Virgin 28.2, 5.3, 7.3 Untreated VP+ Virgin 26.5, 5.4, 7, 9 Phenyltrimethicone V2:1 Virgin 2:1 Shampoo VXM Virgin Heavy moisturizer VLI Virgin Leave-in conditioner BU Bleached 42.9, 10.2, 21.2 Untreated BP+ Bleached 40.6, 10.7, 21.1 Phenyltrimethicone B2:1 Bleached 2:1 Shampoo BXM Bleached Heavy moisturizer BLI Bleached Leave-in conditioner
JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 114 COLOR Each hair tress was mounted fl at and straight on a black board and held in front of the ½ inch port of a Hunterlab Ultrascan XE (diffuse illumination and collection). Five repli- cate measures were collected for each tress. LUSTER Luster meaures were accomplished using the Bossa-Nova Samba in which tresses were pulled straight around a cylinder of 4-inch diameter and illuminated at 10 degrees from vertical with light polarized linearly parallel to the cylinder axis. Each tress was meaured 5 times and the average results are reported. IMAGE ACQUISITION Tresses were positioned straight around a 1.25 diameter cylinder and illuminated with collimated light from a quartz-tungsten-halogen bulb. A Fuji S5 digital camera with 90-mm lens was mounted 32 inches from the tress.With color correction set to 3200K we were able to minimize error in the color apperance of a Macbeth mini color chart. Each image was monitored to ensure color drift of no more than a dE of 2. TWO-ALTERNATIVE FORCED CHOICE (2AFC) PRESENTATION An observer sitting at arms length from a monitor was presented with two alternate im- ages and asked to select the shinier image. Each observer was given the same comparision, AB for example, three times with image A on the left and three times with image A on the right. All experiments were conducted using the same monitor. Color blind subjects were excluded from the study. SKEW Skew is calculated from the color images I(x,y,c) rather than the black and white polarized light images. Using the method of Motoyoshi (10) we compute lightness image IL(x,y) = (1/3) Σc=r,g,bI(x,y,c), then the mean μ = (1/NxNy)Σi=1,N x,j=1,Ny IL(xi,yj), the standard deviation 2 = (1/NxNy)Σi=1,N x,j=1,Ny (IL(xi,yj) μ)2 and fi nally the skew S = (1/NxNy 3 ) Σi=1,N x,j=1,Ny (IL (xi,yj) μ)3. RESULTS POLARIZED IMAGING OF CONTROL TREATMENTS In the fi rst set of measurements reported here, we treat medium brown hair, Virgin and Bleached, with a series of positive and negative shine controls in order to get a handle on
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