2008 TRI/PRINCETON CONFERENCE 233 Table IV lists the color changes of mannequin Gabrielle on both sides of the head as mea- sured by L, a, b parameters and calculated as dE & dC values at the end of 3×, and 10× wash cycles. The color protection % (dE%) by PQ-55 anti-fading system is 33.6% higher than the commercial system tested. In addition, dC% by PQ-55 anti-fading system is 56.7% higher than the commercial system. Therefore, PQ-55 anti-fading system pro- vides not only a higher percent color protection but also a signifi cantly reduced level of “off shade” fading. The salon test results are consistent with the results from the same test but using hair tresses for bleached hair (Figure 12). Figure 14 shows image analysis results of the digital pictures of mannequin Gabrielle after 10× washes and treatments. It indicates that color pixel numbers (color intensity) of PQ-55 treated side of the hair (the right side of mannequin) is 35% higher than the com- mercial product treated side of the hair (the left side of mannequin), consistent with the %dE values in Table IV. The luminosity curve of the commercial system treated side of the hair also shifts to the right direction in the luminosity scale which is the lighter color direction, relative to the curve of the PQ-55 system treated side of the hair. Both the Table IV Color Loss of Mannequin Gabrielle Measured by dE and dC, Intense Red dE wash wash 10× wash Right side—PQ-55 system 4.78 7.31 7.43 Left side—commercial system 6.63 9.9 11.18 % dE improvement by PQ-55 system over commercial. 27.9 26.1 33.56 dC wash wash 10× wash Right side—PQ-55 system 0.87 1.44 1.97 Left side—commercial system 1.53 3.23 4.55 % dC improvement by PQ-55 system over commercial. 43 55.4 56.7 Figure 13. Pictures of mannequin Gabrielle dyed in intense red after 10 cycle washes and treatments with PQ-55 anti-fading system (right side) and commercial color lock system (left side). Dyed pre-bleached Asian hair.
JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 234 higher pixel number and less shift to the left indicates the color protective effects of the PQ-55 system. Figure 15 shows the pictures of mannequin Dephne dyed with ruby red color before and after 10× wash and treatment cycles with PQ-55 3-step anti-fading system (right side) and a commercial 3-step anti-fading system (left side). The picture of mannequin Dephne demonstrates that the PQ-55 3-step anti-fading system is superior to the commercial 3-step anti-fading system tested in preventing hair color fading from shampoo stripping. Table V lists the color changes of mannequin Daphne on both sides of the head as mea- sured by L, a, b parameters and calculated as dE values at the end of 10× wash cycle. The color protection % (%dE) by PQ-55 anti-fading system is 33.8% higher than the 3-step commercial anti-fading system. Figure 16 is the image analysis results of the digital pictures of mannequin Daphne after 10× washes and treatments. The color darkness (area under the curve with L 116, darker pixels) of PQ-55 treated side of the hair (right side of mannequin) is 13,321, while that of the commercial 3-step system treated side of the hair (left side of manne- quin) is 9,758. This refl ects a 35.6% higher color protection from the treatment with the PQ-55 system than the commercial 3-step system, consistent with the %dE improve- ment listed in Table V. The luminosity curve of the commercial system treated side of hair also shifts to the right side, the lighter direction, relative to that of the PQ-55 sys- tem treated side. SURFACE PROPERTY CHANGES AFTER POLYMER TREATMENT AND PROPOSED COLOR PROTECTION MECHANISM OF PQ-55 It has been reported that cationic polymers and conditioners tends to bind to the cuticle edges and around the pores (7,8). The cuticle edges and pore perimeters are more dam- aged therefore more charged than other portion of hair, which attract more cationic charged polymers or conditioners. Figure 14. Image analysis of color intensity of mannequin Gabrielle dyed in intense red after 10 cycle washes and treatments with PQ-55 anti-fading system (right side) and commercial color lock system (left side).
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