2008 TRI/PRINCETON CONFERENCE 219 Alkyl–HEC quaternary salt was supplied by Amerchol. Sodium lauryl either sulfate (SLES, Rho- dapex ES-2) was supplied by Rhodia. Centrimonium chloride (CETAC) was supplied by Stepan. Coco trimonium chloride (Arquard C-33 W) was supplied by Akzo Nobel. HAIR SAMPLES Bleached hair, grey hair and piedmont hair samples were purchased from International Hair Importers. Each hair tress is 1.5 wide, 3.5 g in weight, and 6.5 in length of loose hair. The hair tresses are dyed using commercial hair dye products for subsequent mul- tiple shampoo washing tests and soaking tests. HAIR DYE AND PREPARATION OF DYED HAIR TRESSES Hair samples were dyed with commercial two-component, permanent, level 3 oxidative hair dye formulations having shades of intense red, dark brown, and deep red. Each hair tress was treated with a mixture of 7 g of hair dye base and 7 g of developer lotion. The hair tresses were dyed one hour and 10 minutes and covered with aluminum foil at room temperature. After dying, hair tresses were rinsed under running tap water for 2 minutes which was enough to extract the surface residual dye from the hair. The dyed hair tresses were dried in air at room temperature for 24 hours before they were used for color fading and fastness tests. The primary dyes and couplers of the commercial permanent hair dyes used in this study to treat hair tresses and mannequin designated as Gabrielle are listed in Table I. The ingredients of another commercial two parts, permanent hair dye (ruby red color) used for mannequin designated as Dephne in hair salon test are as follows: aqua/water, trideceth-2 carboxamide MEA, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, PEG-2 oleamine, polyglyceryl-4 oleyl ether, oleyl alcohol, alcohol denat., ammonium hydroxide, polyglyceryl-2 oleyl ether, oleic acid, sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, pentasodium pentetate, parfum/fragrance, ammonium acetate, p-aminophenol, sodium metabisulfi te, p-phenylenediamine, erythorbic acid, phenyl methyl pyrazolone, 2-methyl- 5-hydroxyethylaminophenol, 6-hydroxyindole, resorcinol, F.I.L. #D9617/1. The hair dye used for dying hair samples which are used in FTIR image analysis is bur- gundy color and its ingredient labels are as follows: water, C12-15 Pareth-3, Oleth-10, Table I Primary Dyes and Couplers in the Level-3 Oxidative Permanent Commercial Dye Formulations Used in This Study Color of hair dye Primary dye Coupler Intense red 1-Hydroxyethyl 4,5-diamino pyrazole sulfate m-Aminophenol Deep red 1-Hydroxyethyl 4,5-diamino pyrazole sulfate P-phenylene diamine (PPD) P-aminophenol (PAD) 1-Naphthol Resorcinol Dark brown P-phenylene diamine (PPD) N,N, Bisc(2-hydroxy ethyl) PPD sulfate P-aminophenol (PAP) 1-Naphthol Resorcinol m-Aminophenol

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 220 Cocamide MEA, dilinoleic acid, linolamidopropyl dimethylamine dimer dilinoleate, Streareth-21, ammonium hydroxide, behentrimonium chloride, Polyquaternium-22, so- dium sulfi te, sodium metasilicate, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, P-phenylenediamine, P- aminophenol, N,N-Bis(2-hydroxytoluene), P-phenylenediamine sulfate, mica, iron oxides, 1-hydroxyethyl 4,5-diamino pyrazole sulfate, titanium dioxide. COMMERCIAL COLOR LOCK PRODUCTS Two commercial color lock products were used as benchmarks. The fi rst was a two step system consisting of a shampoo and conditioner. The ingredient labels are: aqua/water, sodium laureth sulfate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, glycol distearate, cocamide MIPA, sodium chloride, hexylene glycol, disodium ricinoleamide, MEA-sulfosuccinate, parfum/ fragrance, carbomer, disodium EDTA, methylparaben, Polyquaternium-10, DMDM hy- dantoin, benzophenone-3, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, hexyl cinnamal, benzyl salicy- late, glycine soja/soybean oil, tocopherol, isopropanolamine, butylphenyl methylpropional, linalool, amyl cinnamal, hydroxycitronellal, limonene water, cetearyl alcohol, behentri- monium chloride, cetyl esters, amodimethicone, fragrance, methylparaben, trideceth-5, benzophenone-3, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, soybean oil, tocopherol, hexyl cinnamal, Trideceth-10, benzyl salicylate, citric acid, chlorhexidine dihydrochloride, butylphenyl methylpropional, linalool, amyl cinnamal hydroxycitronellal. The second commercial color lock system was a three step system and consisted of a leave in treatment cream, shampoo and conditioner. The ingredient labels for the shampoo and conditioner are: water (aqua), sodium laureth sulfate, cocamidopropyl betaine, disodium cocamphodipropionate, phosphoric acid, phenoxyethanol, PPG 5 Ceteth 10 phosphate, fragrance, sodium chloride, methylparaben, ethylparaben, disodium EDTA, arginine HCl, taurine, Polyquaternium 10, hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, wheat amino acids, Oleth 10, lecithin, trehalose, tocopherol, octyl salicylate water (aqua), cetearyl al- cohol, dimethicone, propylene glycol, Ceteth 3 acetate, behentrimonium chloride, hy- droxyethyl cellulose, phenoxyethanol, fragrance (parfum), disodium EDTA, sodium citrate, arginine HCl, taurine, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, PPG 5 Ceteth 20, wheat amino acids, hydrolyzed soy protein, Oleth 10, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, leci- thin, hydroxypropyl trimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, phosphoric acid, trehalose, tocopherol, ethylhexyl salicylate. The ingredient label for the leave-in the treatment is: water, Quaternium-87, stearyl alcohol, potato starch modifi ed, behetrimonium chloride, amodimethicone, phenoxyethanol, 2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol, parfum/fragrance, Polysorbate 20, C11-15 pareth-7, methylparaben, C12-16 parath-9, glycerin, Tride- ceth-12, glycine, SOJA/soybean oil, tocopherol, taurine, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, trisodium HEDTA, citric acid, pentasodium pentetate, limonene, butylphenyl methyl- propional, hexyl cinnamal, chlorhexidine dihydrochloride, PPG-5-ceteth-20, linalool, Oleth-10, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, citronellol, lecithin, ethylparaben, phos- phoric acid, trehalose, ethyl-hexyl salicylate. SOAKING TEST OF DYED HAIR Hair dye dissolution in water was determined by soaking known amount of dyed hair samples (typically 0.4 to 0.8 g) in 100 ml of the aqueous solution which may contain testing