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j. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 337-344 (November/December 2002) Labile proteins accumulated in damaged hair upon permanent waving and bleaching treatments TAKAFUMI INOUE, MAYUMI ITO, and KENJI KIZAWA, Basic Research Laboratory, Kanebo Ltd., Kotobuki-cho 5-3-28 Odawara 25 0-0002, Japan. Accepted for publication April 29, 2002. Presented at the 48th Scientific Meeting of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Japan, Osaka, June 19, 2001. Synopsis We previously found that certain hair proteins were soluble by means of a partial extraction method. In this study, we demonstrate that the amount of soluble proteins internally formed in permed and bleached hair, labile proteins, is a useful index for hair damage assessment. Compared to tensile property changes, this index rose in widely dynamic ranges as the time of either permanent waving or bleaching treatments increased. The amount of labile proteins was much larger than that of proteins eluted into perming and bleaching lotions. However, the labile proteins showed electrophoretic profiles similar to those of the eluted proteins. These results suggest that a portion of the stable proteins in normal hair was transformed into labile proteins upon permanent waving and bleaching treatments. Consequently, perreed and bleached hair tends to release the resultant labile proteins. INTRODUCTION Chemical applications, such as permanent waving or bleaching treatments, are widely known to be a major cause of hair damage. A full understanding of the mechanism of hair damage is required for the establishment of a suitable evaluation system for hair damage. To date, there is much cosmetic scientific research focused on hair proteins, considering their close association with hair damage (1). However, the hair damaging process that involves denaturation of hair proteins has not been clarified (2). In this study, we examined the soluble property changes of hair protein, which is accumulated in the internal hair shaft. Denatured proteins, at least in part losing attachment to hair, would be ultimately released from hair. It has been reported that some hair proteins were eluted upon chemical treatments. Recently, we investigated soluble proteins retained in various keratinized tissues, in- cluding hair, under certain reducing conditions (200 mM 2-mercaptoethanol plus 200 Address all correspondence to Takafumi Inoue. 337