410 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Emulsion(s) containing jewelry powders, 175 containing polyphenols, 293 in cosmetic formulations, 287 cubic-phase-based, 196 isopropyl myristate in water and glycerol, 165 particle size in, 165 performance of, 70 rheological behavior of, 165 stability of, 70, 165 viscosity of, 165 water-in-silicone, preservation of, 78 Eyes bags under, 60 Far-infrared rays from jewelry powders, 175 Fermentation and development of novel active ingredients, 304 Fibroblast(s) dermal, 242 growth factors and hair growth regulation, 242 Flavonoids in extract of dried flowers of Prunus persica, 27 and volume reduction of bags under eyes, 60 Formula attributes prediction of, 74 Formulation optimization elastase inhibition assay as a tool for, 143 Fragrance (see also Odors) protease activation in stratum corneum, effect of, 195 Gels (see also Creams Lotions) containing Fucus vesiculosis extract, 1 Glycerin (glycerol) efficacy of, 229 fundamental properties of, 229 Hair appearance, 89, 387 cosmetically treated, 219 damage, 337 decolorizing compositions, oxidative, 133 deformation, 345 differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) on, 219 dyes, oxidative, 43, 101 elasticity, 345 fiber, 89, 128, 137, 241,249, 345, 387 flexibility, 345 growth regulation of, 242 luster, 135 medulla of, 89, 387 optical properties of, 135 proteins in, 241,337 stiffness, 249, 345 tensile properties of, 337 thickness, 387 Hair care bleaching, 219, 241,337 decolorizing compositions, 133 dyes, 43, 101 see also Hair dyes ester quats as conditioning agents, 242 MPC-co-BMA as hair treatment, 242 permanent waving, 219, 241,337 pore generation at the medulla from, 89 Hair cuticle and hair fiber's bending behavior, 128 Hair dyes in commercial shampoos, 43 oxidative, 43, 101 synthetic (commercial) formulations, dye intermediates in, 43, 101 Hairsprays dynamic analysis of, 249, 345 interactions with human hair, 137 Humectants (see also Moisturizers) moisture-holding ability of, 229 Hydrated salts effect on thermal stability of oxidative hair decolorizing compositions, 133 Hydroxy acids alpha, 121 o•-hydroxyoctanoic, phase behavior of, 151 beta, 121 determination in personal care products, 121 glycolic, 269 lactic, 269 malic, 269, 288 Jewelry powders effects on human skin, 175 Kerafins surface chemistry of, 283 Liposomes release of topical tranexamic acid from, 375 skin care products with, 297, 363 slimming, 209 Lipolysis regulation of o•2-adrenergic receptors, 209 Lotion(s) (see also Creams Gels) containing alpha-hydroxy acids, 151 containing Persea gratissima (avocado) sterols, 369 Makeup deterioration of, 195 ductility and adhesion properties of, 195 and facial stereoscopy, 193 foundation, 241 jewelry powders, 175 powder bed, 195 Melanogenesis inhibitory action of 4-n-butylresorcinol, 194

SUBJECT INDEX 411 Moisturizers (see also Humectants) containing ceramide, 263 containing vitamins A or E, 263 vaginal, 81 Nail enamels quick-drying, 193 Odors (see also Fragrance) effect on creative thinking, 196 elimination by cyclodextrins, 185 Personal care products hydroxy acids in, 121 Photoaging (see also Aging) of skin, 197, 237 Photodamage to skin, 27, 193, 237 Pigmentation evaluation by multispectral image analysis, 194 measurement of, 288 and melanocytes and keratinocytes, 145 Polymer(s) (see also Copolymers) physicochemical properties of, 199 rosin-based, 199 in treatment of hair, 242, 249, 345 Preservation of water-in- silicone emulsions, 78 Proteins eluted from hair fiber, 241 labile, in damaged hair, 337 Quality control elastase inhibition assay as a tool for, 143 Quats as hair conditioning agents, 242 Sebum components of, 35 effect of vehicles on, 35 phase transitions of, 35 Shampoos foam properties of, 130 hair dyes in, 43 Skin aging, morphological changes in, 197 antioxidant for suppression of photoaging in, 197, 237 condition, evaluation of, 62 damage, 27, 193, 237, 315, 317 facial sag, 241,242 facial wrinkles, 62, 195, 242 hydration testing on, 263 jewelry powders, effect on, 175 mechanical properties of, 1 microbial flora of, 194 permeation (penetration), 288, 292, 293, 302, 363 pigmentation, 145, 288 and sunlight, 312, 313, 315, 317 thickness of, 1 volatile compounds from, 147 Skin care emollients, clinical effects of, 149 4-n-resorcinol, whitening effects of, 194 identifying opportunities for marketers and formulators, 76 laminin-5 in basement membrane care, 193 liposome-containing products, 297, 363 malic acid monolaurylamide as a cleansing agent, 288 moisturizers containing vitamins A or E or ceramide, effect of, 263 protection against UV-induced damage, 27 raspberry ketone glucoside, effect on whitening, 196 tannins as skin-lightening agents, 305 Stratum corneum (see also Skin) capacitance of, 263 hydration of, 263, 288 optical properties of, 288 protease activation in, effect of fragrance on, 195 tape stripping, 292 Sun protection factors (SPFs) prediction of', 11 step film model for, 11 Sunscreens containing titanium dioxide, 313 photoprotection by lyophilized extract of Capparis spinosa L. buds, 321 and protection from subsurface UV damage, 315 solid lipid microspheres of UV filters, 317 sun protection factors (SPFs), prediction of, 11 UV spectra of, 11, 315 Supercritical fluids (SCFs) and materials processing, 72 Surfactant(s) monomer skin penetration model, 302 surfactant-layer curvature, 196 Tackiness measurement of, 74 Ultraviolet radiation absorbers, 11 broad spectrum and UVA radiation attenuation, 313 filters, solid lipid microspheres of', 317 and skin damage, 27, 321 spectra, measurement of, 11 subsurface damage in skin, 315 UVB-induced proinflammatory mediators, 309 Wrinkles and decrease of hyaluronic acid, 242 determination of depth of', 195 measurement of, 62