J. Cosmet. Sci., 57, 355-367 (September/October 2006) Cosmeceutical properties of polysaccharides from the root bark of Ulmus davidiana var. japonica SANG YONG EOM, CHAN BOK CHUNG, YOUNG SIL KIM, JONG HEON KIM, KI SOO KIM, YOUNG HEDI KIM, SUN HEE PARK, YONG-IL HWANG, and KI HO KIM, R&D Center, Chamzzone, Taejang 2, Wonju, Kangwon 220-962 (S. Y.E., Y.S.K., J.H.K), R&D Center, Bioland Ltd, Songjeong, Byongchon, Cheonan, Chungnam 330-863 (C.B.C., K.S.K., Y.H.K., S.H.P., K.H.K.), and Division of Food Science and Biotechnology, Kyungnam University, Masan 631-701 (C.B.C., Y.-l.H.), Korea. Accepted for publication May 4, 2006. Presented at the 2005 IFSCC Conference, Florence, Italy, September 19-21, 2005. Synopsis In Korea and China, Ulrnus davidiana var. japonica has been used as a traditional oriental medicine for the treatment of difficulty in urination, skin inflammation, etc. In order to investigate the potential of a polysaccharide extract from Ulrnus davidiana var. japonica as a cosmetic ingredient, we measured its mois­ turizing effect, photo-induced cytotoxicity, and anti-inflammatory effect. After hydrolysis, HPLC experi­ ments showed that the composition of the polysaccharide extract was mainly rhamnose, galactose, and glucose. The molecular weight of the obtained V Imus davidiana root extract was 20,000. The intrinsic viscosity was 90 dl/g. In a moisturizing test conducted through the measurement of water loss in a desiccator and of moisture content with a Corneometer CM820, Vlrnus davidiana root extract showed almost the same moisturizing effect as hyaluronic acid. In an assay for inhibition of the H202-activated release of PGE2, IL-6, and IL-8 in normal human fibroblast cell lines, Ulrnus davidiana root extract showed an inhibitory activity of PGE2 release in a dose-dependent manner (up to 85 .9% at a concentration of 0.1 % ). The percent inhibition of the release ofIL-6 was in the range of 45.6% to 64.5% (H202 was used as the positive control). Moreover, the release of IL-8 was completely inhibited in the entire concentration range (0.0025%). In a test of recovery from photo-induced damage after UVA irradiation (3 J/cm2), the cell recovery of human fibroblasts increased to levels two times higher than that of the positive control, which was UVA-damaged cells in the absence of Ulrnus davidiana root extract (up to 60.2% at 3.0% of Vlrnus davidiana root extract). In a photo-induced cytotoxicity assay in the presence of promethazine as a photosensitizer, Ulrnus davidiana root extract showed approximately 48% of the increased cell viability of the control. Therefore, U lrnus davidiana root extract may be useful for the development of a cosmetic ingredient. INTRODUCTION U !mus davidiana var. japonica (Family: Ulmaceae) 1s a deciduous tree that 1s widely Address all correspondence to Ki Ho Kim. 355

356 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE distributed in Korea. The stem and root bark of this species have been used in traditional oriental medicine for the treatment of edema, mastitis, gastric cancer, and inflammation (1,2). It was reported that ( + )-catechin and catechin glycoside were isolated from the U !mus davidiana and named uldvioside A (3 ). Isoquercetin and rut in were isolated from the leaves of Ulmus parvifolia and identified by chemical and spectral analysis (4), and Moon and Rim (5) isolated sterols, sterol glucoside, and catechin glycoside from the bark of U !mus parvifolia. Studies of the pharmacological activities of U lmus davidiana have reported that the cortex of Ulmus davidiana elicits a remarkable inhibition effect of a HCl-ethanol-induced gastric lesion, Shay ulceration, and gastric secretion (6). It also induces carbuncle anal­ gesic activity and anti-inflammatory activities of methanol or water extract (7 ,8), anti­ neoplastic activity (9), and antioxidative activity of phenolic compounds from barks of U !mus macrocarpa ( 10). There are five requisites for a good moisturizing agent in cosmetic products: proper hygroscopic properties, good affinity for the skin, safety for the skin, hygroscopic prop­ erties that are less affected by changes in the environment, and ease of use and mixing when blended with other ingredients in cosmetics. The most commonly used moisturizing agents worldwide are polyols such as glycerine, propylene glycol, and butylenes glycol natural moisturizing factors (NMF) such as amino acid, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, and sodium lactate and bio-polymers such as sodium hyaluronate, chondrotin sulphate, and chitosan. Even though some of these chemicals have an excellent moisturizing effect, the use of these moisturizing agents still carries some potential risks, including contamination or infection due to chemicals or their origin when used in excessive amounts. To investigate the potential for pol ysaccharide extract from U lmus davidiana var. japonica as a cosmetic ingredient in this study, we isolated the polysaccharides and measured the moisturizing effect, photo-induced cytotoxicity, and anti-inflammatory effect of the extract. The polysaccharide obtained from Ulmus davidiana root extract showed negli­ gible cytotoxicity, good skin hydration profiles, and anti-inflammatory effects, suggest­ ing its usefulness for application as a cosmetic ingredient. MATERIALS AND METHODS REAGENTS The root bark of U lmus davidiana var. japonica was purchased from Kyungdong Oriental Herbal Market (Seoul, South Korea) and cut into pieces prior to use. All reagents were purchased from Aldrich (St. Louis, MO). Other commercially available reagents and solvents were used as received. CELL CULTURE Normal human fibroblast cells were purchased from American Type Culture Collection (ATCC). Cells were cultured in DMEM containing 10% FBS and 10% antibiotics at 37 ° C and humidified with 5% CO 2 • The cells were subcultured with 0.05% typsin-0.53 mM EDTA every two or three days, subsequent to the replacement of fresh medium.