J. Cosmet. Sci.) 57, 399-400 (September/October 2006) Abstracts IFSCC Magazine Vol. 9, No. 2, 2006* Trends in Ecological Science - Is There a Paradi gm Shift? Walter Aulmann Henkel Corporate SHE and Product Safety, Henkelstrasse 67, 40191 Diisseldor( Germany The cosmetic industry takes full responsibility for the safety of its products. The common understanding of this responsibility has been moving lately from the basic concept of ensuring consumer protection to a wider perspective also encompassing the protection of indirectly exposed targets. Hence, a newly defined responsibility also accounts for exposure to chemicals that possibly spread globally having an impact at any remote spot in the world. Such responsibility safe gua rds future human generations as well as other living organisms, both wildlife and experimental animals. In pursuit of taking this responsibility seriously, the scientific and regulatory community has to accept new challenges. This compels us to question paradigms that were once considered indisputable. It may even be necessary to change them. The basic Paracelsus imperative of ecological and toxicological science, the dose, is such a paradi gm which is increasingly called into question. The substantial erosion of the dose paradigm is illustrated by the example of persistence and bioaccumulation. Likewise, in the search for in vitro alternatives to animal tests possible future breakthroughs will be linked to challenging the dose paradigm. Importance of Substrate Roughness for In Vitro Sun Protection Assessment Louis Ferrero, Marc Pissavini, Adeline Dehais, Stephanie Marguerie, Leonhard Zastrow Lancaster - Coty, International Research & Development Center, Athos Palace - 2, rue de la Lujernetta, MC 98000 Monaco The purpose of this study is to demonstrate the influence of plate roughness on well-known absolute or relative UV spectroscopic indices such as the in vitro SPF, in vitro UV A PF (PPD), lN A/UVB ratio, critical wavelength and SPF/UV A PF (PPD) ratio. First a roughness index was measured by non-contact surface topography anal ys is on different PMMA plates which are available today on the European market. A large difference between maximum and minimum plate roughness values could be measured ranging from 1.88 µm to 6.76 µm. Then the PMMA plates were grouped into five different roughness classes. To measure the different spectroscopic indices, the same sunscreen preparation was applied at the same amount rate (1 mg cm"2) to each of the selected plates. Large differences were noted for the absolute in vitro indices SPF and lN A PF (PPD), with the SPF varying in one instance from 13.5 to 40.7. On the other hand, the relative absorbance indices lN A/UVB ratio and critical wavelength showed a small but significant variation in relation to roughness. The SPF/lN A PF (PPD) ratio index based on direct in vitro values was found to be very sensitive to roughness variation. However, adjusting the lN absorbance curve to reach equality between the in vitro SPF and in vivo SPF is a recognized and efficient mathematical process to limit the variation. All these results can be interpreted using the irregular sunscreen film theory. Mathematical developments can be achieved by modeling the height distribution with a gamma function. Optical Rejuvenating Makeup Using an Innovative Shape­ Controlled Hybrid Powder Katsuhiko Yagi', Katsuki Ogawa 1 , Tetsuya Kanemaru1 , Kyoko Joichil), Naomi Kuni:zawa1 , and Ruriko Takano2 1 Shiseido Research Center, 2-2-1 Hayabuchi, Tsuzuki-ku Yokohama, 224-8558, JAPAN 2 Shiseido Institute of Beauty Sciences, 3-9-1 nishigotanda, shinagawa-ku Tokyo, 141-0031, JAPAN For women, the sagging of facial skin noticed with aging is one of the important problems that should be solved. Although conventional skincare cosmetics exist that can prevent sagging, no makeup cosmetics that can correct the appearance of sagging have been developed. The vital factors for an optical rejuvenating makeup were found to be recovery of the skin tension and lightening of the face shadow appearing on sagging skin. Therefore, a hybrid powder consisting of platy barium sulfate on the surface of titanium * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 399

400 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE dioxide coated mica having red interference light was developed. Results of a panel test showed that almost all panelists noticed the rejuvenating effect of the foundation containing the powder. Image analysis showed that the foundation finish made the face look 12 years younger than the face with no makeup. As the mechanism of the optical rejuvenation, regular reflection of the red interference light from the hybrid powder can give the natural-fresh impression observed for a very young skin, and diffuse reflection of the white light can irradiate the shadow. The development of this innovative shape-controlled hybrid powder offers a new technique for making anti-aging cosmetics. Is the Neilla a Distinct Skin Phenotype? Allan Watkinson•, Robert S. Lee, Alison E. Moore, Sarah E. Paterson, Paul Pudney, and Anthony V. Rawlings# Unilever R&D, Colworth, & Port Sunlight Laboratories, UK "' Avecia Biotechnology, P.O. Box 2, Belasis Avenue, Billingham, Cleveland, TS23 IYN, UK , # AVR Consulting Ltd., 26 Shavington Way, Kingsmead, Northwich, Cheshire, CW98FH, UK The axillary skin is cosmetically important with millions of consumers daily applying antiperspirant/deodorant products. Despite this, we know virtually nothing about axillary skin or how antiperspirant use impacts upon it. To characterize axillary stratum comeum and determine whether this is a unique skin type, we have evaluated a range of skin parameters, comparing these with the volar forearm. Trans­ epidermal water loss (TEWL) and comeosurfametry (CS.M) revealed a reduced barrier function in the axilla. However, application of antiperspirant had no effect upon these barrier properties. High performance thin layer chromatography (HPTLC) analysis of stratum comeum lipid demonstrated statistically elevated levels of fatty acids, ceramide and particularly cholesterol in the axilla. This modification of barrier lipid ratios appeared to result in a more ordered lipid lamellae phase behavior, as determined by attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR FfIR), with transition phase changes occurring at higher temperatures. Morphological differences were also seen in the cells of the axillary stratum comeum. Microscopic evaluation of axillary cornified envelopes revealed them to be smaller, indicative of a shorter stratum comeum turnover. However there appeared to be no significant difference comeocyte maturation. 'Skin dryness' squamometry measuremenl indicated that the axillary stratum corneum retained desquamated material on its surface more than on the forearm. This correlated with decreased levels of the desquamatory stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) in the surface layers of the skin. These resulL indicate that the axilla has a distinct phenotype. Color Simulation Method for Accurate Prediction of Resulting Dyed Hair Color Toshiyuki Takahashi, Yutaka Tango, Koichi Shimmoto, Tsuyoshi Ogil:iara, Shigeyoshi Momose Research & Development Division, KOSE Corporation, 48- 18, Sakae-cho, Kita-ku, Tokyo, 114-0005, Japan When choosing hair dyes, it is natural for the user to assume that the final hair color will resemble the color indicated on the product container or color chart Often, however, the result is quite different. The ability to accurately predict resulting hair color after dyeing is essential but not easy to attain because hair varies significantly from person to person. In this paper, a new method for predicting the dyed hair state is proposed. Our method is based on a model where the observed final color com1ists of contribution from three layers of the hair structure: a melanin-containing layer, a bleached layer, and a pigment-colored layer. A method for predicting the final color from responses in each layer is introduced. In this method, response formulas for each layer are derived from the energy balance, and the predicted hair color after dyeing is obtained by calculating each equation assuming that the hair state before dyeing is solely due to the contribution from the melanin-containing layer. In addition, a small measuring apparatus utilizing this prediction method was developed and the effectiveness of our method demonstrated by data obtained before and after hair dyeing.