430 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS showed a definite tendency towards reddening of dyed hair swatches which were stored (in the dark) for several months preparatory to photographing. Ten different classes of dye base additives were checked for their effects on the various physical properties. In order to make all the tests comparable, wherever possible the same (or very similar) dye bases were used. The four "Base Solutions" shown in Table III were used for this purpose. Base Solutions #1 and #3 were used to compare the effects of adding alkanolamides (Table IV), nonionic amides and esters (Table V), fatty alcohols (Table VI), ethoxylated fatty alcohols and amine oxides (Table VII), amphoteric surfactants (Table VIII), surfactant tertiary amines (Table IX), and quaternary ammonium-type surfactants (Table X). Base Solution #2 was used to test the effect of adding polypeptides and EDTA (Table XI). Base Solution #4 was used to test the effect of varying concentration of sodium sulfite (Table XII), which was included in all other experi- ments at 0.2% as an antioxidant to ensure prolonged shelf-life of the Table IV Effect of Fatty Acid Alkanolamides Max. Viscosity (cps) Drop-Movements (in.) Temp. After adding H2Os Fresh Mix 30 Min Mix Final Rise Base Test a pH (øC) Alone 5 Min 30 Min 5 Min 30 Min 5 Min 30 Min 97 94 95 97 98 97 98 97 4 50 53 55 4.3 4.9 4.5 6.1 2 55 222 274 3.2 4.3 2.2 3.2 3 63 496 396 4.5 4.7 2.5 2.6 4 70 259 235 2.7 4.9 2.1 3.5 1 (}8 822 828 3.2 3.8 2.6 2.8 4 56 488 420 1.7 3.8 2.0 3.8 4 70 160 112 2.2 2.3 2.8 2.8 I 30 20 20 5.0 5.0 4.6 4.6 a 1. Coconut diethanolamide, 2:1 (Foamole AR, Van Dyk, Belleville, N.J.). 2. Coconut diethanolamide, 1:1 (Super Amide GR, Onyx Chemical Co., Jersey City, N.J.). 3. Coconut monoethanolamide, 1:1 (Foamole M, Van Dyk, Belleville, N.J.). 4. Linoleic diethanolamide, 2:1 (Foamole L, Van Dyk, Belleville, N.J.). 5. Linoleic diethanolamide, 1:1 (Foamole A, Van Dyk, Belleville, N.J.). 6. Lauric polyamides, 2:1 (Foamole AS, Van Dyk, Belleville, N.J.). 7. Mixed fatty acids diethanolamide, 2:1 (Foamole 2APD, Van Dyk, Belleville, N.J.). 8. Control, 15% water. All above dye solutions contain 15% alkanolamide, 15•. water, 70% base solution #1 (Table III).
EFFECT OF BASE COMPONENTS ON OXIDATION HAIR DYES 431 finished product. Base Solution #4 was also used to test the effect of re- placing the ammonium hydroxide by various alkanolamines (Table Xm). Table V Effect of Nonionic Amides and Esters Test a Max. Viscosity (cps) Drop-Movements (in.) Temp. After Adding H202 Fresh Mix 30 Min Mix Final Rise pH (øC) Base Alone 5 Min 30 rain 5 Min 30 Min 5 Min 30 Min 1 9.8 2 720,000 558 874 1.1 1.1 1.0 1.0 2 9.9 1 30 25 22 3.4 3.4 2.5 2,8 3 9.7 3 60 362 425 O. 9 1.0 1.6 1.7 4 9.3 i 45 30 35 4.8 5.0 3.4 3.5 5 9.7 I 30 20 20 5.0 5.0 4.6 4.6 a 1. Polyglycol palmitic amide at 15% (Emulsynt 505, Van Dyk, Belleville, N.J.). 2. Polyglycol palmitic amide at 7.5% (Emulsynt 505, Van Dyk, Belleville, N.J.). 3. Hydroxyethyl stearyl amide at 15% (Cerasynt 303, Van Dyk, Belleville, N.J.). 4. Polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate at 15% (Tween 80, Atlas, Wilmington, Del.). 5. Control (water). Above dye solutions contain 70% base solution #1, the stated amount of amide, plus water q.s. to 100%. Table VI Effect of Fatty Alcohols Max. Viscosity (cps) Temp. After Adding H202 Final Rise Base Test a pH (øC) Alone 5 Min 30 Min Drop-Movements (in.) Fresh Mix 30 Min Mix 5Min 30Min 5Min 30Min 1 9.7 2 ......... 1.1 1.2 1.1 1.8 2 9.8 1 22 125 90 1.6 2.3 1.0 1.6 3 9.8 1 120 35 35 4.5 4.0 4.0 4.3 4 9.8 i 40 840 950 O. 7 5.5 O. 6 2.6 5 9.9 I 18 145 165 4.1 5.6 4.1 4.7 6 9.5 2 204 2280 2540 1.9 7.9 O. 6 2.9 7 9.7 i 30 20 20 5.0 5.0 4.6 4.6 a 1. Cetyl alcohol at 15% (Adol 52, Archer Daniels Midland Co., Buffalo, N.Y.). 2. Cetyl alcohol at 7.5% (Aldol 52, Archer Daniels Midland Co., Buffalo, N.Y.). 3. Stearyl alcohol at 7.5% (Adol 62, Archer Daniels Midland Co., Buffalo, N.Y.). 4. Oleyl alcohol at 15% (Adol 90, Archer Daniels Midland Co., Buffalo, N.Y.). 5. Oleyl alcohol at 7.5% (Adol 90, Archer Daniels Midland Co., Buffalo, N.Y.). 6. Ricinoleyl alcohol at 15% (Baker Castor Oil Co., Bayonne, N.J.). 7. Control, water 15%. Above dye solutions contain 75% Base #3, the stated amount of fatty alcohol, 10% iso- propyl alcohol, plus water q.s. to 100%.
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