432 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS RESULTS Effect of Fatty Acid A lkanolamides Table IV summarizes the effects of adding various alkanolamides, a class of compound often used in both shampoos and hair dyes to increase viscosity. In the case of oxidation hair dyes, it is desirable that the initial viscosity (labeled "base alone" in Table IV) be quite low, and that the viscosity then rise considerably when this base is mixed with the oxidizing solution (just before applying to the hair). Such a product is considered ideal because it is easy to fill precisely on high-speed filling equipment, and yet does not drip when applied to the head. Among the alkanolamides tested in this series were both the 2:1 types (commonly known as Kritchevsky condensates) and some 1:1 amides (containing equimolar amounts of amine and fatty acid). Trade names are listed in the footnotes of each table summarizing results for these and other surfactants tested in this paper. Similar products made by different manufacturers vary considerably in amine content, Table VII Effect of Ethoxylated Fatty Alcohols and Amine Oxides Max. Viscosity (cps) Drop-Movements (in.) Temp. After Adding H202 Fresh Mix 30 Min Mix Final Rise Base Test s pH (øC) Alone 5 Min 30 Min 5 Min 30 Min 5 Min 30 Min 1 9.8 1 64 330 393 2.5 2.7 1.9 2.0 2 9.6 2 48 25 25 6.2 6.3 5.2 5.4 3 9.6 2 54 284 320 2.5 2.9 2.7 4.0 4 9.9 i 55 80 112 2.4 2.6 3.7 4.7 5 9.8 1 60 120 284 1.6 5.0 1.9 5.0 6 9.7 i 30 20 20 5.0 5.0 4.6 4.6 • 1. 5 mole ethoxylated lanolin alcohols at 15% (Solulan 5, American Cholesterol, Edison, N.J.). 2. 25 mole ethoxylated lanolin alcohols at 15% (Solulan 25, American Cholesterol, Edison, N.J.). 3. 4 mole ethoxylated myristyl alcohol at 15% (Lipal 4MA, Drew Chemical Corp., New York, N.Y.). 4. Lauryl dimethylamine oxide at 30% (Ammonyx LO, Onyx Chemical Co., Jersey City, N. J.). 5. Myristyl dimethylamine oxide at 30% (Ammonyx MO, Onyx Chemical Co., Jersey City, N.J.). 6. Control, water. Above dye solutions contain 70% base solution #1, the stated amount of ethoxylated fatty alcohol or amine oxide, plus water q.s. to 100%. The amine oxides were used at 30% as they are sold commercially (30% solids). The dye bases above therefore contained 9% amine oxide on a solids basis.

EFFECT OF BASE COMPONENTS ON OXIDATION HAIR DYES Table VIII Effect of Amphoteric Surfactants 433 Test a Max. Viscosity (cps) Drop-Movements (in.) Temp. After Adding H•O• Fresh Mix 30 Min Mix Final Rise Base pH (øC) Alone 5 Min 30 Min 5 Min 30 Min 5 Min 30 Min 1 9.9 2 30 975 1280 8.1 8.2 8.0 8.0 2 10.0 2 36 30 25 3.9 4.7 3.5 4.8 3 9.7 1 38 15 15 8.6 8.7 4.7 4.7 4 9.7 2 15 15 15 4.3 8.5 3.0 7.0 5 9.7 I 30 20 20 5.0 5.0 4.6 4.6 • 1. 2-Cocoyl-2-imidazolinium hydroxide 1-carboxyethyloxyethyl 1-carboxyethyl diso- dium salt at 15% (Miranol C2M-SF, Miranol Chem. Co., Irvington, N.J.). 2. 2-Heptadecenyl-2-imidazolinium hydroxide 1-(2-hydroxyethyl) 1-carboxyethyl so- dium salt at 15% (Miranol OM-SF, Miranol Chem. Co., Irvington, N.J.). 3. Partial sodium salt of N-lauryl •-imino dipropionic acid at 15% (Deriphat 160C, General Mills Inc., Kankakee, Ill.). 4. Coco amidopropyl betaine at 15% (Tegobetaine C, Goldschmidt Chem. Corp., New York, N. ¾.). 5. Control, water 15%. Above dye bases contain 75% of base solution//3, 10% isopropyl alcohol, 15% amphoteric surfactant plus 5% water. Table IX Effect of Tertiary Fatty Amines Max. Viscosity (cps) Drop-Movements (in.) Temp. After Adding H•O•. Fresh Mix 30 Min Mix Final Rise Base Test • pH (øC) Alone 5 Min 30 Min 5 Min 30 Min 5 Min 30 Min 97 99 97 97 94 97 2 52 820 1032 O. 3 1.1 0.9 2.5 1 22 58 60 4.1 5.8 6.7 10.0 2 62 1820 2400 1.7 5.3 3.1 7.4 I 23 40 36 3.9 7.6 2.7 3.9 2 72 377 395 2.5 7.8 2.8 6.5 I 30 20 20 5.0 5.0 4.6 4.6 • 1. Bis-2-hydroxyethyl soybean amine at 15% (Ethomeen S-12, Armour Industrial Chemical Co., Chicago, Ill.). 2. Bis-2-hydroxyethyl soybean amine at 7.5% (Ethomeen S-12, Armour Industrial Chemical Co., Chicago, Ill.). 3. Bis-2-hydroxyethyl stearyl amine at 15% (Ethomeen 18/12, Armour Industrial Chemical Co., Chicago, Ill.). 4. Bis-2-hydroxyethyl stearyl amine at 7.5% (Ethomeen 18/12, Armour Industrial Chemical Co., Chicago, Ill.). 5. 2-Hydroxyethyl 3-Hydroxyethyl soybean amine at 15% (Ethomeen S-15, Armour Industrial Chemical Co., Chicago, Ill.). 6. Control, water 15%. All dye bases above contain 70% base solution #1, the stated amount of tertiary amine type cationic surfactant, plus water q.s. to 100•o.