434 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS free fatty acid, distribution curve of ethylene oxide content, and other factors which were found to affect greatly the properties being measured. It will be noted immediately from inspection of Table IV that all the 2:1 diethanolamides produced a 4 øC temperature rise during the test period, whereas all the 1:1 diethanolamides gave temperature rises of only 1-2 øC. The only monoethanolamide tested produced a tempera- ture rise of 3 øC. This effect may be related to the amount of free amine present it was investigated in considerably greater detail later (Table XIII) as a result of this initial observation. The "final" pH (after mixing the dye base with peroxide) did not vary significantly from one amide to another. The 2:1 coconut di- ethanolamide (#1) produced almost no viscosity increase compared to Table X Effect of Quaternary Ammonium-Type Cationic Surfactants Max. Viscosity (cps) Drop-Move•nents (in.) Temp. (After Adding H202) Fresh Mix 30 Min Mix Final Rise Base Test a pH (øC) Alone 5 Min 30 Min 5 Min 30 Min 5 Min 30 Min 1 9.5 2 30 860 980 1.0 2 9.6 1 20 36 50 3.8 3 9.8 2 35 2060 2580 0.4 4 9.7 0 20 300 320 6.2 5 9.4 I 30 320 448 1.5 6 9.7 I 26 40 250 5.0 7 9.6 i 32 1280 1340 3.3 8 9.4 I 36 1520 1472 0.2 9 9.7 I 10 5 10 5.1 10 9.7 I 30 20 20 5.0 2.1 71 05 77 3 1 62 56 10 54 30 0.8 0.9 5.6 6.6 0.2 0.3 6.7 7.2 1.6 3.7 4.1 4.9 2.2 5.6 1.0 2.0 3.2 3.6 4.6 4.6 a 1. Stearyl methyl bis-2-hydroxyethyl ammonium chloride at 15% (Ethoquad 18/12, Armour Industrial Chemical Co., Chicago, Ill.). 2. Stearyl methyl bis-2-hydroxyethyl ammonium chloride at 7.5% (Ethoquad 18/12, Armour Industrial Chem. Co., Chicago, Ill.). 3. Dimethyl distearyl ammonium chloride at 15% (Arquad 2HT, Armour Industrial Chem. Co., Chicago, Ill.). 4. Dimethyl distearyl ammonium chloride at 7.5% (Arquad 2HT, Armour Industrial Chem. Co., Chicago, Ill.). 5. Stearyl quaternary imidazoline at 15% (Sole-onic QS-80, Hodag, Chicago, Ill.). 6. Dimethyl distearyl ammonium lanolate at 15% (Quaterlan (experimental), Amer. Cholesterol, Edison, N.J.). 7. Dimethyl cetyl benzyl ammonium chloride at 15% (Cetol, Fine Organics, Lodi, N.J.). 8. Cetyl pyridinium chloride at 15% (Fine Organics, Lodi, N.J.). 9. Cetyl pyridnium chloride at 7.5% (Fine Organics, Lodi, N.J.). 10. Control, water. All dye bases contained 70% of base solution #1, the stated amount of quaternary ammo- nium type surfactant, plus water q.s. to 100%.

EFFECT OF BASE COMPONENTS ON OXIDATION HAIR DYES 435 the water control (#9) while the 1:1 linoleic diethanolamide (//5) pro- duced by far the greatest viscosity rise of this series. On the other hand, the drop-movement shown by the 1:1 linoleic amide was greater than two of the 2:1 diethanolamides tested (#4 and//7 in Table IV). Dyeings made from the base containing the 1:1 diethanolamide (#2) were somewhat darker when it had aged 1000 hours at 2 øC, than when fresh or when aged at 48 øC. This effect was not noted for any of the other amides tested. Amide//7 in this series (2:1 mixed fatty acid di- ethanolamide) seemed to interfere with color "take" when the dye Table XI Effect of Polypeptide and EDTA Max. Viscosity (cps) Drop-Movements (in.) Temp. After Adding H202 Fresh Mix 30 Min Mix Final Rise Base Test s pH (øC) Alone 5 Min 30 Min 5 Min 30 Min 5 Min 30 Min 1 9.6 1 120 3020 1060 2.7 3.4 2.0 2.9 2 9.4 2 80 640 1020 2.9 3.5 2.0 2.4 3 9.2 i 160 1540 1280 2.0 2.4 2.3 3.3 4 9.3 i 140 2400 1760 2.4 3.3 2.7 5.1 '• 1. Control, water. 2. Polypeptide--2.5% (Solids) (Polypeptide LSN, Stepan Chem. Co., Maywood, N.J.). 3. EDTA (Na2)--0.2% (Ha•npene EDTA, Na= Hampshire Chem. Div., W. R. Grace, Nashua, N.H.). 4. EDTA (Na=)--0.5%. All above dye solutions contained 85% of base solution //2, the stated amount o[ poly- peptide or EDTA (Na=), plus water q.s. to 100%. Table XII Effect of Sodium Sulfite Max. Viscosity (cps) Temp. After Adding Final Rise Base Test • pH (øC) Alone 5 Min 30 Min Drop-Movements (in.) Fresh Mix 30 Min Mix 5Min 30Min 5Min 30Min 1 9.7 2 25 720 740 2.6 2.8 2.7 3.0 2 9.6 2 160 2520 2420 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 3 9.6 5 570 1840 3060 2.5 4.1 1.6 1.9 4 9.4 8 125 3000 3400 2.5 7.9 2.4 7.9 a 1. 0.2•0 sodium sulfite. 2. 0.5% sodium sulfite. 3. 1.0% sodium sulfite. 4. 2.0% sodium sulfite. All above dye solutions contained 85(•o of base solution //4, 10•: ammonimn hydroxide (conc.) and 5% water.