ABSTRACTS 327 relErred to as "color rendering powder") having new optical characteristics of which brightness and hue can change simultaneously before and after UV irradiation. This color rendering powder uses the interference light of pearl pigment (specially blue based color), while the substrate color tone is adjusted to be a yellowish orange color. This can show a tone change (a color difference of at least 15) that has never been available before. These optical characteristics were applied to correct unnatural appearance of skin under various optical environments. A foundation containing this color rendering powder can correct unnatural cosmetics appearance of heavy covered skin. For example, the foundation can provide a bright and translucent appearance under fluorescent light and a natural and beautithl appearance under bright sunlight. This new color rendering powder can show superior optical characteristics under various light environments. Therefore, this powder is useful as a powder for base make up application. The EffEct of Plant Extracts on Production of Adult T Cell Leukemia Derived FactorUTioredoxin (ADF«TRX) Hiroshi Tanaka, Yoko Funasaka, Masamitsu Ichihashi Research Development Department, Naris Cosmetics Co., Ltd. Department of Dermatology, Kobe University School of Medicine Study of Blooming on the Eyebrow Pencil Containing Cetyl Alcohol Hiroyo Kameymna, Mika Kurashige, Kunio Sugimoto, Kiyokazu Tamura Product Development Department, Tokiwa Corporation In eyebrow pencils containingcetyl alcohol, white fine powders have appeared on the surface. This is called as blooming. Analytical data continned that the white powder was cetyl alcohol itself. Particularly, at the temperature of 372, cetyl alcohol crystallized quickly and appeared on the surface of eyebrow pencils in the form of needle crystals. On the other hand, when cetostearyl alcohol (a 1:1 mixture ofstearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol) was used instead ofcetyl alcohol, no such blooming problem occurred. This is probably because that the crystallization ofcetyl alcohol is hindered due to mixing withstearyl alcohol so that no crystals grow even at 377•. Also, it has been found that less blooming substance appeared when the ratio of oil was increased. This is because that more oil can dissolve more solid substance and therefore prevent cetyl alcohol from crystallization This study indicates that the differences in solubility of solid substances in different oils and the micronizing of cetyl alcohol crystals by mixing with higher alcohol are key factors for the occurrence and control of the blooming in eyebrow pencils. With the aim to recognize the materials which increase the tyrosinase activity of melanocytes in the conditioned medium ofkeratinocytes after UV B irradiation, we studied the stimulatory effects of conditioned media using ADF TRX and ct MSH (melanocyte stimulating hormone) antibodies. As a result of the studies, all tyrosinase activities of melanocyte in the conditioned media with ADFUTRX andor a MSH antibodies were suppressed efficiently as compared to the medium without the antibodies. As melanin amount is up regulated by UV B irradiation that causes skin pigmentation, we searched for a way to suppress the amount of ADFI•TRX produced during UV B irradiation. We found the ingredients that effectively suppress the amount of ADF [] TRX [] as follows:dl a tocopherol, Psidium guajava leaf extract, Thea sinensis L. extract and Helianthus annuus L. seed extract.

j. Cosmet. Sci., 52, 329-353 (September/October 2001) Papers presented at the Annual Scientific Seminar of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (Thursday's Program) May 10-11, 2001 Sheraton New Orleans New Orleans, Louisiana 329