HORSE CHESTNUT EXTRACT VS SKIN AGING 375 at the corner of the eye and the lower eyelid compared with the placebo. Six weeks of treatment with the gel was sufficient to have a wrinkle-smoothing effect. Medically, it is well known that extracts of horse chestnut are active against chronic venous insufficiency and anti-inflammation activities (8,9). But these biological and physiological activities were not explained due to the contraction force generation. Here, we show the wrinkle-smoothing effect of this extract. We hypothesize that the genera­ tion of contraction forces by fibroblasts, followed by a firming of the dermis, causes this efficacy. The activity of the ingredients to generate cell contraction forces in the skin in vivo is not clear, but cell contraction forces play important roles not only in vitro but also in vivo. Berg et al. (10) have reported that cytochalasin D induces edema formation and the lowering of interstitial fluid pressure in the dermis. Their results suggest that dermal cells can participate in the regulation of the extracellular matrix fluid of tissues via the actin filament system, and that dynamic assembly and disassembly of actin filaments also occur in the cells of dermal tissue in vivo. In general, the elastic properties of the skin change in edema. Auriol et al. (11) have reported that immediate extensibility, Ue, which reflects the elastic properties of the skin, is decreased in lymphoedema. Moreover, there have been several studies that indicate the negative relationship between the elasticity of the skin and wrinkle formation (12,13). Taken together, it is quite likely that the disruption of the actin filament system induces skin edema followed by wrinkle formation. To the contrary, it is suggested that the extract of horse chestnut acts upon the actin filament system and generates cell contraction force, resulting in wrinkle smoothing efficacy accompanied by contraction of dermal tissue. We did not test this extract in a controlled study compared with other ingredients such as ascorbic acid (14) or alpha-lipoic acid (15), and we did not clarify the mechanism(s) of wrinkle smoothing experimentally in vivo. Although further investigation will be required, our results suggest that the horse chestnut extract, which induces the con­ traction force of fibroblasts in vitro! exerts potent anti-aging efficacy even in vivo. REFERENCES (1) M. S. Kolodney and R. B. Wysolmerski, Isometric contraction by fibroblasts and endothelial cells in tissue culture: A quantitative study, J. Cell Biol., 117, 73-82 (1992). (2) A. K. Harris, P. Wild, and D. Stopak, Silicone rubber substrata: A new wrinkle in the study of cell locomotion, Science, 208, 177-179 (1980). (3) N. M. Morel, P. P. Petruzzo, H.B. Hechtman, and D. Shepro, Inflammatory agonises that increase microvascular permeability in vivo stimulate cultured pulmonary microvessel endothelial cell contrac­ tion, Inflammation, 14, 571-583 (1990). (4) E. Bell, B. Ivarsson, and C. Merrill, Production of a tissue-like structure by contraction of collagen lattices by human fibroblasts of different proliferative potential in vitro, Proc. Natl. Acad. Sci. U.S.A., 76, 1274-1278 (1979). (5) K. Tsukahara, Y. Takema, H. Kazama, Y. Yorimoto, T. Fujimura, S., Moriwaki, T. Kitahara, M. Kawai, and G. Imokawa. A photographic scale for the assessment of human facial wrinkles,]. Cosmet. Sci., 51, 127-139 (2000). (6) L. Balazs, J. Okolicany, M. Ferrebee, B. Tolley, and G. Tigyi, Topical application of the phospholipid growth factor lysophosphatidic acid promotes wound healing in vivo, Am. J. Physiol. Regul. lntegr. Comp. Physiol., 280, R466-R472 (2001). (7) M. S. Kolodney and E. L. Elson, Correlation of myosin light chain phosphorylation with isometric contraction of fibroblasts,]. Biol. Chem., 268, 23850-23855 (1993). (8) M. H. Pittler and E. Ernst, Horse-chestnut extract for chronic venous insufficiency: A criteria-based systematic review, Arch. Dermatol., 134, 1356-1360 (1998).
376 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE (9) H. Matsuda, Y. Li, T. Murakami, K. Ninomiya, J. Yamahara, and M. R. Yoshikawa, Effects of escins Ia, Ib, Ila, and IIb from horse chestnut, the seeds of Aesculus hippocastanum L., on acute inflammation in animals, Biol. Phann. Bull., 20, 1092-1095 (1997). (10) A. Berg, K. Rubin, and R. K. Reed. Cytochalasin D induces edema formation and lowering of interstitial fluid pressure in rat dermis, Am. J. Physiol. Heart Circ. Physiol., 281, H7-H13 (2001). (11) F. Auriol, L. Vaillant, C. Pelucio-Lopes, L. Machet, S. Diridollou, M. Berson, and G. Lorette, Study of cutaneous extensibility in lymphoedema of the lower limbs, Br. J. Dermatol., 131, 265-269 (1994). (12) Y. Takema, K. Tsukahara, T. Fujimura, and M. Hattori, Age-related changes in the three-dimensional morphological structure of human skin, Skin Res. Tech., 3, 95-100 (1997). (13) Y. Takema, Y. Yorimoto, and M. Kawai, The relationship between age-related changes in the physical properties and development of wrinkles in human facial skin, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 46, 163-173 (1995). (14) T. Raschke, U. Koop, H.J. Dusing, A. Filbey, K. Sauermann, S. Jaspers, H. Wenck, and K. P. Wittern, Topical activity of ascorbic acid: From in vitro optimization to in vivo efficacy, Skin Pharmacol. Physiol., 17, 200-206 (2004). (15) H. Beitner, Randomized, placebo-controlled, double blind study on the clinical efficacy of a cream containing 5% alpha-lipoic acid related to photoageing of facial skin, Br. J. Dermatol., 149, 841-849 (2003).
Previous Page Next Page