j. Cosmet. Sci.) 57, 397 (September/October 2006) DRY SKIN AND MOISTURIZERS: CHEMISTRY AND FUNCTION, 2ND ED., Marie Loden and Howard Maibach, Eds. (Taylor & Francis imprint, CRC Press, Boca Raton, FL, 2006), 543 pp., $149.95. Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function is compilation of chapters written by international experts in the field to cover the biochemistry and function of the skin, hyperkeratotic skin conditions, the use of specialized ingredients and their in­ teraction with the skin, instrumental mea­ surements pertaining to skin moisturiza­ tion, and specialized skin reactions. The 543-page book is printed in black and white with some gray-tone figures. It is an excellent reference for the novice cosmetic chemist who wishes to get a broad over­ view of the etiology of dry skin and the basic active moisturizing ingredients. It does not discuss moisturizer formulation. The text opens with a thorough discus­ sion of the skin barrier, comparing the three basic stratum corneum models (brick and mortar, domain mosaic, and single gel) and continues on to classify the epi­ dermal lipids. Chapter 5 presents the use of particle probes to analyze calcium, zinc, and iron levels in the skin, focusing on the importance of calcium in preprogrammed cell death. The topic of calcium signaling for barrier repair is further presented in Chapter 6. The discussion then turns to renewal of the skin through desquamation, with chapters on ichthyosis, atopic derma­ titis, photoaged skin, and psoriasis. Book RevieW" The next section of the book discusses the use of proteases, lactic acid, urea, glyc­ erol, hyaluronan, petrolatum, phospholip­ ids, essential fatty acids, sphingolipids, and vitamins in moisturizers. One detailed chapter is devoted to each of these topics. It would have been fitting to have an au­ thor wri re a summary chapter discussing how each of these ingredients might fit into an overall final formulation. The ma­ jor problem with moisturizer formulation is that not all beneficial ingredients can be placed into one product, thus creating con­ fusion. The text closes with chapters on nonin­ vasive skin assessment, including analysis techniques for skin smoothness, moistur­ ization, squamometry, anl barrier func­ tion. Finally, sensitive skin, irritating sub­ stances, and sensitizing substances are dis­ cussed. One final regulatory chapter on the safety of skin moisturizers is included. The book is cohesive and well orga­ nized. It is nicely printed and well bound, making it a lasting addition to a library collection. This is the second edition of the text, which was originally published five years ago. The update is current and timely, except in the areas of botanicals and cosmeceutical moisturizer ingredients. These discussions are of ingredients that have withstood the test of time, avoiding the fads of the moment. This makes the book a valuable reference for both industry and the dermatologist.-ZOE DIANA DRAELOS-Dermatology Consulting Ser­ vices 397

J. Cosmet. Sci.) 57, 399-400 (September/October 2006) Abstracts IFSCC Magazine Vol. 9, No. 2, 2006* Trends in Ecological Science - Is There a Paradi gm Shift? Walter Aulmann Henkel Corporate SHE and Product Safety, Henkelstrasse 67, 40191 Diisseldor( Germany The cosmetic industry takes full responsibility for the safety of its products. The common understanding of this responsibility has been moving lately from the basic concept of ensuring consumer protection to a wider perspective also encompassing the protection of indirectly exposed targets. Hence, a newly defined responsibility also accounts for exposure to chemicals that possibly spread globally having an impact at any remote spot in the world. Such responsibility safe gua rds future human generations as well as other living organisms, both wildlife and experimental animals. In pursuit of taking this responsibility seriously, the scientific and regulatory community has to accept new challenges. This compels us to question paradigms that were once considered indisputable. It may even be necessary to change them. The basic Paracelsus imperative of ecological and toxicological science, the dose, is such a paradi gm which is increasingly called into question. The substantial erosion of the dose paradigm is illustrated by the example of persistence and bioaccumulation. Likewise, in the search for in vitro alternatives to animal tests possible future breakthroughs will be linked to challenging the dose paradigm. Importance of Substrate Roughness for In Vitro Sun Protection Assessment Louis Ferrero, Marc Pissavini, Adeline Dehais, Stephanie Marguerie, Leonhard Zastrow Lancaster - Coty, International Research & Development Center, Athos Palace - 2, rue de la Lujernetta, MC 98000 Monaco The purpose of this study is to demonstrate the influence of plate roughness on well-known absolute or relative UV spectroscopic indices such as the in vitro SPF, in vitro UV A PF (PPD), lN A/UVB ratio, critical wavelength and SPF/UV A PF (PPD) ratio. First a roughness index was measured by non-contact surface topography anal ys is on different PMMA plates which are available today on the European market. A large difference between maximum and minimum plate roughness values could be measured ranging from 1.88 µm to 6.76 µm. Then the PMMA plates were grouped into five different roughness classes. To measure the different spectroscopic indices, the same sunscreen preparation was applied at the same amount rate (1 mg cm"2) to each of the selected plates. Large differences were noted for the absolute in vitro indices SPF and lN A PF (PPD), with the SPF varying in one instance from 13.5 to 40.7. On the other hand, the relative absorbance indices lN A/UVB ratio and critical wavelength showed a small but significant variation in relation to roughness. The SPF/lN A PF (PPD) ratio index based on direct in vitro values was found to be very sensitive to roughness variation. However, adjusting the lN absorbance curve to reach equality between the in vitro SPF and in vivo SPF is a recognized and efficient mathematical process to limit the variation. All these results can be interpreted using the irregular sunscreen film theory. Mathematical developments can be achieved by modeling the height distribution with a gamma function. Optical Rejuvenating Makeup Using an Innovative Shape­ Controlled Hybrid Powder Katsuhiko Yagi', Katsuki Ogawa 1 , Tetsuya Kanemaru1 , Kyoko Joichil), Naomi Kuni:zawa1 , and Ruriko Takano2 1 Shiseido Research Center, 2-2-1 Hayabuchi, Tsuzuki-ku Yokohama, 224-8558, JAPAN 2 Shiseido Institute of Beauty Sciences, 3-9-1 nishigotanda, shinagawa-ku Tokyo, 141-0031, JAPAN For women, the sagging of facial skin noticed with aging is one of the important problems that should be solved. Although conventional skincare cosmetics exist that can prevent sagging, no makeup cosmetics that can correct the appearance of sagging have been developed. The vital factors for an optical rejuvenating makeup were found to be recovery of the skin tension and lightening of the face shadow appearing on sagging skin. Therefore, a hybrid powder consisting of platy barium sulfate on the surface of titanium * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 399