400 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE dioxide coated mica having red interference light was developed. Results of a panel test showed that almost all panelists noticed the rejuvenating effect of the foundation containing the powder. Image analysis showed that the foundation finish made the face look 12 years younger than the face with no makeup. As the mechanism of the optical rejuvenation, regular reflection of the red interference light from the hybrid powder can give the natural-fresh impression observed for a very young skin, and diffuse reflection of the white light can irradiate the shadow. The development of this innovative shape-controlled hybrid powder offers a new technique for making anti-aging cosmetics. Is the Neilla a Distinct Skin Phenotype? Allan Watkinson•, Robert S. Lee, Alison E. Moore, Sarah E. Paterson, Paul Pudney, and Anthony V. Rawlings# Unilever R&D, Colworth, & Port Sunlight Laboratories, UK "' Avecia Biotechnology, P.O. Box 2, Belasis Avenue, Billingham, Cleveland, TS23 IYN, UK , # AVR Consulting Ltd., 26 Shavington Way, Kingsmead, Northwich, Cheshire, CW98FH, UK The axillary skin is cosmetically important with millions of consumers daily applying antiperspirant/deodorant products. Despite this, we know virtually nothing about axillary skin or how antiperspirant use impacts upon it. To characterize axillary stratum comeum and determine whether this is a unique skin type, we have evaluated a range of skin parameters, comparing these with the volar forearm. Trans­ epidermal water loss (TEWL) and comeosurfametry (CS.M) revealed a reduced barrier function in the axilla. However, application of antiperspirant had no effect upon these barrier properties. High performance thin layer chromatography (HPTLC) analysis of stratum comeum lipid demonstrated statistically elevated levels of fatty acids, ceramide and particularly cholesterol in the axilla. This modification of barrier lipid ratios appeared to result in a more ordered lipid lamellae phase behavior, as determined by attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR FfIR), with transition phase changes occurring at higher temperatures. Morphological differences were also seen in the cells of the axillary stratum comeum. Microscopic evaluation of axillary cornified envelopes revealed them to be smaller, indicative of a shorter stratum comeum turnover. However there appeared to be no significant difference comeocyte maturation. 'Skin dryness' squamometry measuremenl indicated that the axillary stratum corneum retained desquamated material on its surface more than on the forearm. This correlated with decreased levels of the desquamatory stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) in the surface layers of the skin. These resulL indicate that the axilla has a distinct phenotype. Color Simulation Method for Accurate Prediction of Resulting Dyed Hair Color Toshiyuki Takahashi, Yutaka Tango, Koichi Shimmoto, Tsuyoshi Ogil:iara, Shigeyoshi Momose Research & Development Division, KOSE Corporation, 48- 18, Sakae-cho, Kita-ku, Tokyo, 114-0005, Japan When choosing hair dyes, it is natural for the user to assume that the final hair color will resemble the color indicated on the product container or color chart Often, however, the result is quite different. The ability to accurately predict resulting hair color after dyeing is essential but not easy to attain because hair varies significantly from person to person. In this paper, a new method for predicting the dyed hair state is proposed. Our method is based on a model where the observed final color com1ists of contribution from three layers of the hair structure: a melanin-containing layer, a bleached layer, and a pigment-colored layer. A method for predicting the final color from responses in each layer is introduced. In this method, response formulas for each layer are derived from the energy balance, and the predicted hair color after dyeing is obtained by calculating each equation assuming that the hair state before dyeing is solely due to the contribution from the melanin-containing layer. In addition, a small measuring apparatus utilizing this prediction method was developed and the effectiveness of our method demonstrated by data obtained before and after hair dyeing.

J. Cosmet. Sci., 57, 401-440 (September/October 2006) Papers Presented at the Annual Scientific Seminar of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists May 11-12, 2006 Boston Marriott Copley Place Boston, Massachusetts 401