440 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Modified and Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate. 'In the dispersed polymer state, the amylose and amylopectin components are free to act as individual polymer chains. These starch-based polymers swell in the water phase, enabling the polymers to build viscosity through hydrodynamic volume exclusion,·modify rheology and texture, and stabilize emulsions:'-� Soluble starch derivatives can also form humidity resistant films when dried6, and can deliver smooth, conditioning aesthetics when applied to hair and skin. 7 Examples or starches used in the dispersed polymer state in personal care products include Potato Starch Modified and Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate. Performance Four granular starches that are either h{drophobically modified. cross-linked, or both, are compared to two benchmarks, talc and titanium dioxide, for their ability to reduce friction. All four starches are based on corn starch to minimize differences attributable to granule size and shape variation. The starches are modified as follows: • Corn Starch Modified (CStM) - C12 hydrophobe, cross-linked with calcium • Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (AStO) - C11 hydrophobe, cross-linked with aluminum. • Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate (SStO) - C11 hydrophobe, not cross-linked • Glyceryl Starch (GSt) - Covalently cross-linked The results in Figure J show that the friction coerficient for CStM, is significantly lower than the other friction coefficients, and is similar to that of talc. The friction coefficient for AStO, is higher than CStM, but lower than SSLO and GSt. The data indicates that cross-linked starch granules with long chain hydrophohes will have the greatest effect at reducing friction, increasing silkiness and thus enhancing aesthetics. Frictioll Coeff'cieont of l'MUW Stan:- 0.2 0.4 0.8 0.8 Figure 3 1 □TI02 fO ■TM: ! ■SSIO Further examples will be presented showing how the starch starting material, chemical modifications and physical propenies are tailored to optimize performance for a variety of specialty starches. The performance benefits of these specialty starch products combined with their natural derivation provide formulators of personal care products the unique opponunity to create new formulations with naturally derived raw materials that exceed the performance expectations of their consumers. References I. Webster's Ne.._, MillenniumrM Dictionary of English. Preview Edition(\' 0.9.6J 2. Rutenberg, M .• "Starch and It Modifications". Handbook of Watu Soluble GunLf and Re.fins, ed., 1980, pgs. 22.1 - 22.83, 3. Mwtino, G. and Solarek, D., "Personal Care Applications of Starch", The Chemi.ftry and Ma,1ufacture of Co.m�tics, ed .• 2002, pgs. 703-729, 4. Cardinali, S., Pasapane. J., and Greenberg, J., "Novel Thickeners for Hard-to-Thicken Personal Care Products", GCI, May 1997. pgs. 42-48 5. Oestmann, A., Bonnardel, V., and Milliere, J., "'A New Concepl for Creating Skin Care Emulsions in Asia", Personal Care Ingredients • Fonnularion • Mun1ifacrure, November 2002. pgs. 27-29 6. Vitale, M. and Moll. S., "Performance Enhancement of Styling Products Using Starch-Based Fixatives", Pu.wnal Care Ingredients Asia Conference Proceedings. Marrh 2002, pgs. 339-348 7. Ondeo Nalco Company, "Sensomer Cl-50 Product Bulletin PC-Cl-50", 2001 8. Advanced Ceramics Web Site, www.accos.com/LUBRICITY.html, December 2002