2010 TRI/PRINCETON CONFERENCE 223 Figure 2. Hair tresses that exhibit substantivity with 0.5% quat solution. SILICONE COMPLEXES The data above was presented to show the basic theory of making complexes and optimiz- ing them for hair care applications. The application of this technology to silicone com- plexes results in an ability to improve deposition of silicone conditioning agents on hair. The structure of silicone quaternium 20 is shown in Figure 3. By making the complex of the anionic and cationic silicone a more effective conditioner is achieved. Silicone quaternium 20 has been developed to maximize the disruption of the hydrogen bonding between water molecules, yet still maintaining water solubility. The result is a complex that despite its water solubility achieves the lowest free energy by depo- sition on the hair and skin. The result is a very effective conditioning of the hair and skin. SALON EVALUATION: 1. Silquat® J208-1B Silicone quat 2. SilPlex® J2-S Silicone quat complex Shampoo base Ingredients % Water Qs Sodium laureth-2 sulfate 30.00 Cocamidopropyl betaine 7.00 Cocamide DEA 4.00 Na2EDTA 0.10 Silquat® J208-1B or SilPlex® J2-S 2.50 Germaben II 1.00 Citric Acid (25% soln) Qs All formula pH adjustments ranged from 6.65 to 6.80, specs being 6.30 to 6.80.

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 224 Comments All products were yellow in color. • The product made with silicone complex was crystal clear, while the one made with the • silicone quat had a slight haze. The product with the silicone complex did not affect the viscosity. • Foam heights: • (a) The product with the silicone complex was similar in both foam and viscosity to the control. (b) The product with silicone quat had lower foam and viscosity indicating interaction between the cation and anion. EVALUATIONS These two products were then evaluated for wet and dry combing on 10 inch virgin brown hair. Three two gram swatches were used with one gram of shampoo for each swatch. The water temperature used for wetting and rinsing the hair was a constant 25°C. All the swatches were rinsed until squeaky clean or for at least one minute. After the wet hair evaluation (Table XIV), the swatches were left to air dry and then the dry comb evaluation (Table XV) was performed. The scale used for all evaluations is from 1 to 5, 5 being the best. Figure 3. Silicone quaterniun 20.