2010 TRI/PRINCETON CONFERENCE 157 onto the SEM images (Figure 8) show the location of the zinc-rich domains. There does not appear to be a dramatic difference based on hair type. After 168 hrs of UV exposure, (Figure 9), the zinc oxide morphology is unchanged and there is continuous UVA/UVB protection and prevention of color loss. This confi rms the UV damage protection and color loss protection benefi ts of zinc oxide and jojoba oil across many hair types. ANTI-FRIZZ AND HUMIDITY RESULTS FOR ZINC OXIDE AND JOJOBA OIL ON AFRICAN HAIR To better simulate the conditioning and antifrizz benefi ts of zinc oxide and jojoba oil, African hair tresses treated with zinc oxide and jojoba oil were exposed to 90% RH and 30°C for 4 hrs. The zinc oxide/jojoba oil treated tress has reduced frizz and more control than the commercial control or untreated control (Figure 10 Table V). Expert panelists evaluated hair tresses after treatment, and the results are show in Figure 11 below. The feel of the hair tresses is improved compared to the control cream without zinc oxide and jojoba oil. These tresses felt smooth and did not feel greasy. The addition of the zinc oxide to the surface of the hair did not negatively impact the other properties. The benefi ts of the jojoba oil would be for very curly or tightly curled hair that is not easily managed, such as Brazilian or African hair. It offers controlled frizz and a smooth conditioned feel. Figure 8. (a,b) Overlays of zinc-rich phase maps onto SEM images. Figure 9. Overlay on UV-exposed (a) European bleached hair and (b) Brazilian curly hair.
JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 158 POLYQUATERNIUM 10 AND 67 FOR ENHANCED FEEL AND CONDITIONING Polyquaternium-10 and polyquaterniun-67 have functionality for conditioning benefi ts on hair through a shampoo but have additional benefi ts provided directly from a styling product for conditioning, combability and feel. They provide ease of comb (wet and dry), improved feel (softness/smoothness), and manageability. As demonstrated in Figure 12a,b where a split end is observed, after treatment with polyquaternium 10 there is repair of the split providing improved conditioned feel and smoothness, and hair repair. The polyquaternium-67 and acrylates/hydroxyesters acrylates copolymers were incorpo- rated into a curl activator spray and shown to provide curl defi nition and anti-frizz on Brazilian curly hair and Asian hair. In addition, the acrylates/hydroxyesters acrylates co- polymer is a fi lm former and aids in improved high-humidity curl retention. Polyquater- nium-10 and 67 are strongly conditioning, providing effi cient frizz control and curl defi nition they can be recommended for normal to “diffi cult” hair types (frizzy, curly) and from Asian hair to Brazilian curly hair (see Figure 13 Table VI). Table V Anti-Frizz on African Hair after Exposure to 90% RH, 30°C for 4 hrs 10a Untreated hair Very frizzy 10b Zinc oxide and jojoba oil-treated Minimal frizz 10c Commercial control Moderate frizz Figure 11. Hair panelist evaluation of Brazilian Latin hair, average of three tresses. Zinc oxide and jojoba oil cream on Latin hair hair characteristics by panel evaluation. Figure 10. (a) Untreated. (b) Zinc oxide/jojoba oil-treated. (c) Commercial control
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