2010 TRI/PRINCETON CONFERENCE 153 With the reduction in roughness there is a smoother surface, which correlates to an im- provement in shine. Again this benefi t was observed across a variety of hair types where the cuticles were either fl attened or the valleys have been fi lled in with the thin layer of styling and shine treatment. ACRYLATE-BASED TECHNOLOGY RESULTS FOR HOLD AND NON-FLAKING Not only do the acrylates/hydroxyesters acrylates copolymer hair fi xatives provide en- hanced shine across a variety of hair types, they also provide high humidity curl retention. Asian hair tresses were curled then treated with the acrylates/hydroxyesters acrylates co- polymers 1 and 2, with the control silicone spray pictured in the middle (see Figure 3 Table II). The tresses were air dried, then exposed to a high-humidity chamber for 8 hrs at 90% relative humidity and 30°C. The acrylates/hydroxyesters acrylates copolymers were able to maintain their style retention and control while the silicone-containing product had signifi cant loss in style control under humid conditions. When the hairspray dries, the hair fi xative creates a network of “welds,” the polymer forms fi lms between hair fi bers that act to secure the hair in place. The polymer can be distributed as either spot welds, at the intersection of two fi bers, or seam welds, in the space between two parallel fi bers. This network of spot and seam welds are distributed in a thin layer across the hair shaft fi lling in the valleys to create a smooth surface that enhances shine and a bound network of fi bers for enhanced hold even under humid conditions. Figure 3. Asian hair: 8 hrs, 90% RH, 30°C. Table II % Curl Retention after 8 hrs at 90% RH and 30°C Initial 4 hrs 8 hrs Fig. 3a Acrylates/hydroxyesters acrylates copolymer 1 100 95 90 Fig. 3b Commercial silicone/polymer spray 100 70 45 Fig. 3c Acrylates/hydroxyesters acrylates copolymer 2 100 90 85

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 154 Beyond a styling spray, the acrylates/hydroxyesters acrylates copolymers can be incorpo- rated into a hair gel. The acrylates/hydroxyesters acrylates copolymers are also non-fl aking as can be observed after combing through a bundle of Brazilian hair, where we compared the acrylates hair fi xative to a polyvinylpyrrolidone-based hair fi xative. The PVP based product has signifi cant fl aking on the hair and residue on the comb. By having a contin- uous ‘non-fl aking’ fi lm on the hair, there is a smoother, shinier surface. The PVP fi lm tends to crack and fl ake, giving a discontinuous fi lm that appears matte or dull (see Figures 4a and 4b). The rheology modifi er, acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate crosspolymer, is used to thicken the hair gel. These are multifunctional by providing thickening and viscosity control and inherent fi lm formation. The rheology modifi ers have the ability to provide hold and style control as well as humidity resistance in clear hair gels as shown in Table III below. ZINC OXIDE AND JOJOBA OIL RESULTS FOR COLOR PROTECTION Zinc oxide offers broad spectrum absorption across the whole solar UV range (UVA + UVB). Traditionally, zinc oxide has been formulated into sunscreens for the sun care mar- ket. Although an effective UV fi lter, its lack of transparency limited its use. A new mi- cron sized zinc oxide product in combination with jojoba oil offers opportunity to expand the use of zinc oxide beyond sunscreens and in hair care products. zinc oxide and jojoba oil deliver color protection, enhanced feel and anti-frizz control. Jojoba oil is natural product and non-greasy. It is commonly used in hair treatments, especially hair that is dry or damaged, has split ends and is prone to breakage and tangling. Jojoba is considered moisturizing oil since its molecules are small enough to penetrate the hair cuticle. Using products with jojoba oil as a hair treatment will give your hair a healthy shine and con- ditioned feel. To demonstrate the attributes of zinc oxide and jojoba oil in a styling cream, bleached hair was dyed using L’Oreal Cherry CordialTM (Manufactured by L’Oreal Group Cosmetic Company), treated with zinc oxide and jojoba oil comparable to those in a commercial control Figure 4. (a) Acrylates RM and HF hair gel. (b) Commercial hair gel. Table III % Curl Retention after 8 hrs at 90% RH and 30°C Initial 4 hrs 8 hrs PVP/carbomer commercial hair gel (control) 100 50 10 Acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate crosspolymer 100 75 50 Acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate crosspolymer and acrylates/hydroxyesters acrylates copolymer 100 90 85