J. Cosmet. Sci., 62, 101–108 (March/April 2011) 101 Linking enhanced deposition agent functionality with aesthetic performance PAQUITA ERAZO-MAJEWICZ, CATHLEEN ROBERTS-HOWARD, EUGENE OLDHAM, CRAIG LYNCH, JOHN GRAHAM, COURTNEY R. USHER, and SURENDRA JONEJA, Ashland Aqualon Functional Ingredients, Ashland, Inc., Ashland Research Center, 500 Hercules Rd, Wilmington, DE 19808. Synopsis This study examines the cationic polymers 1) guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride polymers (GHPTC), 2) acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer (APTAC/Acm), 3) polyquaternium polymers (PQ-10, PQ-7, PQ-67), and 4) a new polymer system approach for their a) deposition effi ciency (as measured by quantifying oils deposited on virgin hair) and b) ability to deliver good wet and dry lubricity to the hair from a cleansing formulation as measured by comb energy and friction characteristics of the hair samples. Conditioning polymer technology approaches 1) acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copoly- mer, 2) a guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride polymer, and 3) the new polymer system approach deliver superior deposition of natural conditioning oils and dimethicone materials from anionic/amphoteric surfac- tant cleansing formulations. These new polymer technologies offer formulators the ability to improve unifor- mity of deposition as well as deposition effi ciency of conditioning agents onto hair, and target the desired hair lubricity. INTRODUCTION The function of conditioning shampoo is to cleanse the hair and to deposit active ingre- dients, conditioning agents, fragrances, and other materials onto the hair or scalp. Effec- tive deposition of conditioning ingredients is associated with the formation of a polymer-surfactant coacervate complex formed from the shampoo on dilution with water (1). Acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer and guar hydroxypro- pyltrimonium chloride polymers have been shown to enhance deposition of dimethicone and dimethicanol silicone oils onto hair (2). The deposition performance of these poly- mers for natural oils such as jojoba and meadowfoam seed oil is of interest given the movement in the marketplace towards natural ingredients. OBJECTIVE This study examined guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride(GHPTC) polymers, an acryl- amidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer(APTAC/Acm), polyquaternium-10, © 2010 Ashland/Hercules
JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 102 polyquaternium-67, and polyquaternium-7 polymers, and a new polymer system ap- proach (DEV-1) under development at Ashland Inc. for their conditioning benefi ts. The conditioning polymers were formulated into a conditioning shampoo and compared with respect to their a) deposition effi ciency for different oils onto hair and b) ability to deliver good wet and dry lubricity to the hair from a cleansing formulation. EXPERIMENTAL MATERIALS 1. INCI: guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, GHPTC-1 (N-HanceTM 3196, Ash- land Inc.) 2. INCI: guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, GHPTC-2 (N-HanceTM 3215, Ash- land Inc.) 3. INCI: acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer, APTAC/Acm (N-HanceTM SP-100, Ashland, Inc.) 4. INCI: Polyquaternium-10, PQ-10 (Ucare* Polymer JR-30M, Dow Chemical Com- pany) 5. INCI: Polyquaternium-7, PQ-7 (Merquat* 550, Nalco Company) 6. INCI: Polyquaternium-67, PQ-67 (SoftCAT* SX1300H, Dow Chemical Company) 7. DEV-1, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer (Ashland Inc.) 8. Sodium Laureth Sulfate (2EO) (Standapol* ES-2, Cognis Corporation) 9. Cocamidopropyl betaine (Amphosol* CA, Stepan Company) 10. Carbomer (Carbopol* 980, Lubrizol Noveon® Consumer Specialties) 11. Dimethicanol and TEA dodecylbenzene sulfonate microemuision (Dow Corning* 1784) 12. Jojoba oil (Lipoval* J, Lipo Chemicals, Inc.) Charkit Chemical Corp. 13. Meadowfoam seed oil(Natural Products, Inc.) Charkit Chemical Corp. METHODS Virgin European medium brown hair was supplied as 12-inch tresses from International Hair Importers. Tresses were washed with a 4.5% sodium lauryl sulfate solution prior to applying the shampoo treatment: A) Shampoos compositions used in this study contained 0.25 wt% cationic conditioning polymer and the following ingredients: 12 wt% SLES (sodium laureth sulfate (2EO), 2 wt% CAPB (cocamidopropyl betaine), 1 wt% sodium cloride, 1.5 wt% conditioning oil, and carbomer added for emulsion stabilization. B) Wet and dry combing performance measurements. Combing performance was measured on an Instron* 5542 testing system, equipped with a double comb fi xture. Eight combs were performed per tress, at 23°C and 50% relative humidity. Hair tresses were then allowed to dry overnight at 23°C and 50% relative humidity. *Trademark owned by a third party.
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