2010 TRI/PRINCETON CONFERENCE 105 AMOUNT OF OIL DEPOSIT ON HAIR To determine the amount of oil present in the hair deposits, the dried extracts were redis- solved in heptane and run on a GC with a fl ame ionization detector. Figure 4 shows the amount of oil recovered in the extract as measured by GC. The following polymers, listed in decreasing effectiveness of deposition, enhance deposition of both jojoba and meadow- foam seed oil onto hair relative to the shampoo containing oil without cationic conditioning polymer. PQ-10 polymer enhances deposition of meadowfoam seed oil, but not jojoba oil. APTAC/Acm∼DEV-1GHPTC-2 ∼PQ-67GHPTC-1 (jojoba oil)PQ-10PQ-7 As shown by comparing Figure 4 with Figure 5, the polymers depositing the most jojoba and meadowfoam oil from shampoos are also good deposition agents for dimethicanol, with the exception of the PQ-67 polymer. PQ-67 polymer shows poor silicone oil deposi- tion from this formulation. Acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer APTAC/Acm, DEV-1 developmental polymer system, and guar hydroxypropltrimonium chloride polymer GHPTC-2 enhance jojoba, meadowfoam and silicone oil deposition. The PQ-67 polymer enhances jojoba and meadowfoam oil deposition, but not silicone oil deposition. As shown in Figure 5, the acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer APTAC/Acm effectively deposits the same amount of silicone oil onto the virgin brown hair, even at 33% reduced dimethicanol silicone oil levels in the shampoo. This enhanced deposition effectiveness at reduced oil levels, however, does not translate to the natural oils in this formulation, as shown in Figure 5. The relative order of deposition effectiveness for jojoba and meadowfoam seed oil from the quantifi ed oil graph in Figure 5 is in the order: Figure 4. Amount of oil deposit on virgin brown hair tress.
JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 106 APTAC/Acm∼DEV-1 GHPTC-2∼PQ-67 The relative order of deposition effectiveness for dimethicanol microemulsion from the quantifi ed oil graph in Figure 5 is: APTAC/Acm GHPTC-2 DEV-1 PQ-67 HAIR PERFORMANCE AFTER SHAMPOO TREATMENT Wet comb energy reduction. As shown in Figure 6, shampoos containing the dimethicanol microemulsion deliver slightly lower wet comb energies relative to shampoos containing jojoba and meadowfoam seed oil. The relative order of wet comb energy reduction perfor- mance for the series of polymers follows a similar order to deposition effi ciency: APTAC/Acm GHPTC-2 DEV-1 GHPTC-1PQ-67 PQ-10PQ-7 The shampoos delivering lower comb energy also deliver more oil phase and extracted mate- rial to the tresses. Acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer APTAC/ Acm, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride polymer GHPTC-2, and DEV-1 polymer system consistently deliver the lowest wet comb energies and the most oil deposit onto the tress. In addition, the wet comb performance of the shampoos containing acrylamidopropyl- trimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer APTAC/Acm and DEV-1 developmental sys- tem do not signifi cantly change after reducing the oil content of the formulations by 33%. The tresses treated with the shampoo containing PQ-67 polymer show some of the high- est wet comb energies in this study. This result was expected for the shampoo containing dimethicanol, because of low levels of silicone oil deposition by the PQ-67 polymer. The Figure 5. Comparison of deposition polymer effectiveness across oil types.
Previous Page Next Page