2010 TRI/PRINCETON CONFERENCE 103 C) Coeffi cient of friction measurements on dry hair. Friction measurements were obtained on a CETR UMT* M0 tribometer using a sledge friction test with a silicon wafer counter- surface at 23°C and 50% relative humidity after air drying the hair overnight at 23°C and 50% relative humidity. D) Microscopy. The microstructure of shampoo samples was examined under an Olympus* BH-2 Phase Contrast Light Microscope (LM). All of the samples contained two particle phases as shown in Figure 1(a–c), with the oil phase appearing as round particles and small agglomerates (generally appearing as blue spots in the phase contrast images). E) Natural oil deposition measurements. Virgin brown (VB) hair tresses were extracted with hexane to recover the soluble hair extract. Solutions of hair extracts were run on a gas chromatograph (GC) with a fl ame ionization detector. For jojoba oil, the area of the four major peaks, identifi ed by GC/Mass Spectrometry as ester forms, were summed and compared to a standard. Figure 2a shows a chromatogram for the jojoba oil stan- dard. The four major peaks present a unique pattern of the jojoba ester components that was used to quantify the jojoba oil in the hair extracts (3). The limit of quantita- tion (LOQ) is considered to be approximately 11 mg/kg. Figure 2b shows a chromato- gram for the meadowfoam oil standard. The fi ve major triglyceride peaks present a unique pattern that was used to quantify the meadowfoam seed oil in the hair extracts. The limit of quantitation (LOQ) is considered to be approximately 100 mg/kg. Figure 2. Gas chromatography-fl ame ionization detector chromatograms for (a) jojoba oil and (b) meadow- foam seed oil. Figure(1a–c). Light photomicrographs of shampoo containing acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acryl- amide copolymer (APTAC/Acm) and (a) dimethicanol, (b) jojoba, and (c) meadowfoam seed oils.
JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 104 F) Silicone deposition measurement. The hair tress samples were double extracted with meth- ylene chloride, and the silicone content was quantifi ed in the infrared by measuring the SiCH3 band near 1261 cm-1 using a Thermo-Nicolet MAGNA* 560 FTIR with a fi xed path liquid cell (2). RESULTS AND DISCUSSION Jojoba oil has been used as a hair and skin moisturizer for many years. Considered a liquid wax, it is composed primarily of mono-unsaturated long chain fatty acid/fatty alcohol esters, mainly with a carbon chain length of C18 to C22. Meadowfoam oil has been used as a hair and skin moisturizer for many years. The oil is composed primarily of mono- unsaturated long chain triglycerides, mainly with a carbon chain length of C20 to C22. Virgin hair was treated with shampoos containing various additives to measure their ef- fectiveness in retaining jojoba or meadowfoam oil after rinsing. TOTAL DEPOSIT ON HAIR Figure 3 shows the total weight of dried extract recovered per tress for both jojoba and meadowfoam seed oil shampoos. This extract contains the oil deposited on the tress in addition to other components. The relative weight of dried extract for each shampoo sys- tem gives a relative trend of deposition effectiveness for each polymer. Guar hydroxy- propyl trimonium chloride polymers GHPTC-1 and 2, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer APTAC/Acm, and the polymer system DEV-1 enhance deposition onto hair from both jojoba oil and meadowfoam seed oil shampoos. PQ-7 and PQ-10 polymers deposit some material onto hair from the meadowfoam oil shampoos. Figure 3. Total weight of extract from virgin brown hair tress.
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