510 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS analysis melanin granules, 159 penetration stratum corneum, 249 photoacoustic measurement horny layer, 375 Aminomethyl propanol toothpaste composition, 211 Ammonium laureth-3 sulfate (AEOS-3EO) Attenuated total reflectance (ATR) polydimethylsiloxane measurement on human skin, 73 Autoradiography analyses uptake and permeation of radiolabeled chemicals, 249 Bacteriostatic activity soap bars on human skin, 99 surfactant irritation collagen swelling, 199 Band Amide II protein skin, 73 Ammonium laureth-6 sulfate (AEOS-6EO) Barium carbonate Grignard reaction surfactant irritation collagen swelling, 199 radiolabeled HCA, 397 Ammonium laureth-9-sulfate (AEOS-9EO) Benzocaine gels solubility, viscosity, 429 surfactant irritation collagen swelling, 199 Benzoic acid Ammonium lauryl sulfate anionic surfactant quality assurance, 445 irritancy collagen swelling, 199 Ammonium persulfate bleaching treatment, 141 Amphoteric surfactants swelling of collagen film, 199 Anatomy man relationship between percutaneous absorption and transepidermal water loss, 351 Androstenol perspiration, 409 Animal model percutaneous absorption, 297 safety topically-applied sub stances, 249 Anionic surfactants adsorption, 309, quality assurance, 445, swelling, 199, 125 Aniseed oil hair preparation of cross section, 59 ANOVA hair assembly characteristics, 141 Antioxidants soap and detergent composition rinsability, 89 Antiperspirant formulations gelled with dibenzylidene sorbitol stability, 225 APAMOS microscope spectrophotometer software program, 59 Aqueous broth mold assay, 49 buffer stratum corneum hydration, 9 gel suspensions release experiments, 429 cosmetics, 49 evaluation in anionic surfactants, 445 relation between transepidermal water loss and percutaneous absorption, 351 Benzophenanthridine alkaloids sanguinaria extracts, 279 Beta-glycyrrhizin pentaacetate, 177, physiochemical properties cosmetic applications, 177 Betaines swelling effect on artionic surfactants, 199 Bleaching hair, 395 assembly characteristics, 141, inter-fiber friction, 489, morphological components, protein structure, 159 Butanol membrane permeability, 297 Butylene glycol effect on gel stability, 225 Butylparaben solvent permeability polydimethylsiloxane, 429 Calcium chloride solutions epidermal membrane production, 35 Calcium pyrophosphate abrasion standard, 211 Carbohydrates cleansing bar evaluation skin surface adsorption, 309 Carbomer cosmetic base formulation skin penetration, 249 toothpaste composition, 211 solution beta-glycyrrhizins, 177, hydrogen Carbon surfactant structure swelling peroxide, 159, xanthan gum viscosity, 329 Arabinic acid oil-in-water emulsion stability, 329 Arginine in melanin granules, 159 Ascorbic acid sample preparation nitrosamine analysis, 267 Aspergillus niger ATCC mold assay three-day, 49 Assay microbiological preservative efficacy, 481 mold cosmetics, toiletries, 49 nude rat skin permeability, 297 ATCC fungal strains cosmetics mold assay, 49 activity, 199 Carboxymethylcellulose emulsion stability creaming, 329 Carrageenan toothpaste component sanguinarine analysis, 279 Cationic fluorescent dye sorption skin surface, 309 surfactant swelling, 125, 199 Caucasian hair assembly characteristics, 141, combing forces wet, dry, 111, manageability, 489 Cellulose gum toothpaste composition, 211 Chain length carbon collagen film swelling, 199 Chamber test rinsability soap, detergent,

SUBJECT INDEX 5 11 89, erythema quantification, 475 Chloramphenicol in HC agar, 49 Chloride salt alkaloid extract component anti-plaque effectiveness, 279 Chlorophyll henna color intensity, 359 Chromatography thin layer lipid analysis, 369 Chromone acid absorption human skin, 297 Citrate buffer assay conditions acid phosphatase, 387 Citric acid toothpaste composition sanguinarine analysis, 279 Civet perfume ingredient, 409 Cleaning effect toothpaste, 211 C-NMR methodology properties of alpha and beta glycyrrhizins, 177 Cocamide MEA effect on gel stability antiperspirants, 225 Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) surfactant irritation, collagen swelling, 199 Cocoa butter soap composition, 89 Coco amidopropyl betaine surfactant swelling, 125 Cocobetaine surfactant solution irritation marker, 387 Coconut acid soap composition, 89 Collagen film swelling response, 199 Collodial oatmeal soap composition, 89 Colognes in mold assay, 49 Color formation oxidative hair dyeing, 1 hair quantitative determination, 59, inter- fiber friction, 489 soap composition, 99 wool felts dyed with lawsone and henna, 359 Colorimeter color assessment bleached wool felt, 359 Combars characteristics tinsability, irritancy, 89 Combing hair forces, 111, manageability, 489, fiber curvature, friction, stiffness, diameter, 141 Composition detergent tinsability, 89 soap tinsability, 89 Compression hair combing forces, 111 Concentration emulsifier viscosity, 329 methanol-phenol solutions effect on polydimethylsiloxane membranes, 429 odorants body odor 409 surfactants lysosomal acid phosphatase activity, 387, swelling, 125, 199 Conditioner henna, 359 Cosmetics analysis, 109 applications alpha and beta glycyrrhizins, 177 ingredients safety, effectiveness, 249 microbial challenge test, 481 mold assay, 49 nitrosamine analysis, 267 preparation henna, 359 skin care efficacy, 309 Couplers dye-forming reactions diamine 502, p-phenylene diamine, p-aminophenol, diimine II, 1 Creaming emulsion stability gums, 329 Creams microbial challenge test, 481 Creme rinse hair treatment assembly characteristics, 141 Curvature hair single-fiber properties, 141 Cyclomethicone gel formulation component stability, 225 solvent, 73 Cyclopentadecanolide odorants related to human body odor, 409 Cysteic acid melano protein reaction, 159 Cystine in melanin granule, 159 Dandruff 395 Decyl surfactant irritation collagen swelling, 199 Decyl oleate glycerine cosmetic base formulation skin penetration, 249 Demographics sensory segmentation fragrance preference, 233 Density skin, anionic surface charge, 309 Dental stain toothpaste cleaning power, 211 Dentin toothpaste abrasion, 211 Dentrifice cleaning effect, 211 Deodorant bars tinsability, 89 Depilatories effect on hair, 461 Dermatitis skin surface attenuated total reflectance, 73 Dermatological preparations, 297 Dermis linoleic acid localization, 191 Desorption stratum comeurn water uptake, 9 Detergent liquid irritancy potential, 199 manufacture of, 501 raw material quality assurance, 445 tinsability, 89 skin irritation erythema quantitation, 475 Dextrin soap composition, 89 Diameter hair single-fiber characteristics, 141 Diamine dye role of primary intermediate, 1 Dibenzylidene sorbitol (DBS): antiperspirant formulations stability, 225 Dicalcium phosphate toothpaste component sanguinarine analysis, 279 Diffusion