512 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS dye henna and lawsone, 359 polydimethylsiloxane membranes solvents, 429 properties skin, 35 stratum corneum water loss, 9 swelling process, 125 Dimethicone see polydimethylsiloxanes, 73 Disulfide bonds hair permanent waving, 159, reduction, 461 Dithiothreitol solution epidermal membrane production, 35 Dodecyl surfactant irritation collagen swelling, 199 Dodecyltrimethyl ammonium bromide (DTAB) surfactant irritations collagen swelling, 199, 125 Drug formulations animal models, 297 influence on sebaceous glands, 369 Dry-combing hair assembly characteristics, 141 Dye bleached wool felt absorption of lawsone and henna, 359 cationic fluorescent sorption, 309 fluorescein in soap solution, 89 hair distribution, 59, oxidation, spectral data, stability, 1 EDTA acid phosphatase irritation marker, 387 Efficacy cosmetic ingredients, 249 preservatives cosmetics, 481 skin care soaps, 309 Electric flow properties stratum corneum hydration, 9 Emulsion hair reduction rate, 461 linoleic acid localization, 191 mechanisms alpha and beta glycyrrhizins, 177 mold assay, 49 stability oil-in-water, 329 polyethylene glycol, 502 stratum corneum hydration, 73 Enamel abrasion toothpaste cleaning power, 211 End-peak forces hair combing, I l l Energy absorption transmission spectroscopy, 73 combing hair, 111 Enthalpy stratum corneum water binding site, 9 Enzyme papain hair bleaching, 159 Epidermis guinea pig flexibility measurements, 397 irritation surfactant exposure, 199 linoleic acid localization, 191 lysosomes release of acid phosphatase, 387 membrane preparation, 35 permeation natural moisturizing factor, 249 Equations Beer's law quality assurance of surfactants, 445 contamination index cleansing bar evaluation, 309 diffusion rates parabens, 429 dyes rate of color formation, stability, 1 Fick's law, flux, water concentration, 9 emulsion stabilization particle size, 329 Fick's first law of diffusion skin plasticity. 397, permeability of parabens, 429 filler in commercial membranes adsorption effect, 429 fragrance preference sensory attributes, 233 hair end peak force magnitude, 111 lawsone diffusion coefficient, 359 Maillard reaction polymerization using NMF condensate, 249 mechanism of reduction hair bleaching, 159 paraben flux, 429 permeability coefficient, 297 radiation wave penetration depth, 73 single-fiber properties combing, static friction, kinetic friction, stiffness, curvature, diameter, static charge, 141 skin permeability, 35 substantivity soap wash cycle, 73 surfactant irritation potential, 199 thermal diffusion length thickness of surface, 375 toothpaste scratching value, polishing value, cleaning power, 211 tortuosity of membranes, 429 Erythema cleansing bar evaluation, 309 quantification of, 475 surfactant irritancy, 387 Escherichia coli preservative efficacy cosmetic products, 481 Esters cosmetic base formulations skin penetration, 249 Ethanol effect of gel stability antiperspirants, 225 in mold assay, 49 membrane permeability, 297 solvent body odor, 409 Ethoxylation effect on collagen swelling, 199 surfactant swelling stratum corneum, 125

SUBJECT INDEX 513 Ethylene glycol application of benzoic acid percutaneous absorption, 351 Ethylene oxide surfactant structure swelling activity, 199 Ethylparaben solvent permeability polydimethylsiloxane membranes, 429 European hair assembly characteristics, 141 Expansion swelling process, 125 Eyeliners microbial challenge test, 481 Eyeshadows microbial challenge test, 481 Facial mask in mold assay, 49 Fastness dye hair, 59 Fats saponification, 501 Fatty acids irritancy cleansing bar evaluation, 309 linoleic acid, 191 soap composition, 89, manufacture, 501 Fibers dye distribution polymer, cylindrical, 59 hair assembly, 141, combing, 111, manageability, 489, reduction kinetics, 461 Fibroblasts human skin acid phosphatase activity, 387 Fick's law water loss stratum corneum, 9 Film collagen tissue culture medium, 199 Finn chamber tests skin care efficacy surfactant bars, soaps, 309 Flavor toothpaste composition, 211 Floccules emulsion stabilization, 329 Flow curves properties of glycyrrhizins, 177 Fluorescein dye in soap solution, 89 Fluorescence measurement of microscope spectrophotometry, 59 skin cleansing bar evaluation, 309 Fluoride acid phosphatase irritation marker, 387 Flux hydration stratum corneum, 9, p-aminoacetophenone, 429, paraben, 475 Flyaway hair, 489 Force combing hair, midlength, endpeak, 111 Foundation in mold assay, 49 Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy hair waving and bleaching effects, 159 polydimethylsilixane measurement on human skin, 73 Fragrance gel formulation component antiperspirant, 225 perfume relation to body odor, 409 preferences sensory segmentation, 233 soap composition, 99 Freezing permeability n-alkanols, 297 Friction combing hair, 111, single-fiber, 141 Fungus growth, 49 Gas chromatography false positive nitrosamine analysis thermal energy analysis (TEA), mass spectrometry (MS), 267 Gel acid stable dibenzylidene sorbitol antiperspirant formulations, 225 formation in acidic media alpha and beta glycyrrhizins, 177 hair in mold assay, 49 surfactant treated membrane swelling, 199 Gender odorants, 409 pore patterns sebaceous secretion, 369 skin permeability, 297 Glucose accelerated preservation test cosmetic products, 481, mold assay, 49 Glutamic acid in melanin granules, 159 Glycerin hair reduction, 461 sanguinarine analysis, 279 soap composition, 89, 99 solvent permeability of parabens, 429 toothpaste component, 211 Glycerine recovery processes, 501 Glycine in melanin granule, 159 Glycols preservatives mold assay, 49 solvent paraben solubility, 475, stability of antiperspirant formulation, 225 Grafting athymic nude mouse with human skin, 249 Growth mold incubation, 49 Guanidine salts hair kinetics, 461 Guinea pig epidermis plasticisation, 397 stratum corneum swelling, 125 Gums emulsion components stabilization, 329 Hair combing forces, 111 dressing in mold assay, 49 dye distribution, 59, henna, lawsone, 359, oxidative role of primary intermediate, 1 fiber assembly characteristics, 141 manageability, 489 preparations microbial challenge test, 481 reactions bleaching, waving, 159 reduction single-fiber method, 461 safety and effectiveness of cosmetic ingredients, 249 stratum corneum swelling, 125, diffusion measurement, 397 HC-Red 3 in dye, 59 Hedonics sensory segmentation fragrance preference, 233 Henna absorption bleached wool felt, 359