SUBJECT INDEX 5 17 stratum corneum uptake, 249 Near infrared reflectance spectroscopy surfactants, quality assurance, 445 Negroid hair combing forces, wet, dry, 111, assembly characteristics, 141 Ninhydrin cleansing bar evaluation, 309 Nitromusks nitrosamine analysis, 267 N, N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine hair dyeing, 1 N-nitrosamines analyses gas chromatography, 267 N-nitroso-n-methyl dodecylamine (NMDDA) 267 Nonionic surfactant collagen swelling, 199, 125 N-propanol hair reduction, 461 Nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) physicochemical properties glycyrrhizins, 177 Nutrient agar microbiological assay preservative efficacy, 481 Nylon dyestuff concentration, 59 Occlusive films stratum corneum hydration, 73 Occlusivity stratum corneum plasticisation, 397 Octanol membrane permeability, 297 Odor intensity, pleasantness, 409 Oil effect on hair combing, 111, saponification, 501 Oleth emulsion component stabilization, 329 Oral care products sanguinarine analysis HPLC, 279 Oral rinse sanguinarine component, 279 Organic nitrogen mold assay, 49 Oriental hair assembly characteristics, 141 Oxidation degradation hair bleaching, 159 hair dye, 1, pretreatment, 461 indo dye preparation, 1 PABA stratum comeurn uptake, 249 Palmirate soaps comparison with surfactant bars, 309 P-aminoacetophenone permeability, 429 P-aminobenzoic acid penetration stratum corneum, 249 P-aminophenol dye coupling reactions, 1 Parabens permeability polydimethylsiloxane membranes, 429 preservative mold assay, 49 Paraffin sulfate surfactant swelling, 125 Paraquat diffusion properties epidermal membrane, 35 Patch test skin care efficacy soap, surfactant bars, 309 P-benzoquinone monoimane hair dyeing hydrolysis, 1 PEG 4-dilaurate soap composition, 89 6-methyl ether soap composition, 89 stearate cosmetic base formulation, 249 toothpaste composition, 211 Pellicle dental stain toothpaste assessment, 211 Penetration depth infrared spectroscopy, 73 linoleic acid percutaneous, 191 plasticisation stratum corneum, 397 radiolabeled cosmetic ingredients human skin, 249 skin anionic surfactants, 309 Pepsin oil-in-water emulsions stability, 329 Perfumes, 409 fragrance preference sensory segmentation, 233 Perhydrosqualene percutaneous absorption, 191 Permanent waving hair morphological components, protein structure, 159 Permeability anatomic location, 351 in vitro measurement human and animal skin, 35 n-alkanols effects of short-term freezing and alkyl chain length, 297 stratum corneum, 429 water effects of short-term freezing and alkyl chain length, 297 Perspiration influence on stratum corneum hydration, 9 Petrolatum cosmetic base formulation skin penetration, 249 irritancy free fatty acids, 309 occlusive agent transepidermal water loss, 9 pomade treatment hair, 141 pH adsorption lawsone and henna, 359 color formation rates oxidative dyeing, 1 detergent bar rinsability, 89 effects on collagen swelling, 199 hair depilation, 461 in dyeing paste, 59 in mold assays, 49 plasticisation stratum corneum, 397 skin surface tape strips, 309 soap rinsability, 89 surfactant evaluation of, 445, solutions, 125 Phase inversion temperature emulsions, 502 Phenoxyethanol in mold assay, 49 Phenylalanine hair bleaching, 159

5 18 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS 2-Phenyl-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid sunscreening agent photoacoustic measurement, 375 Phosphate buffer surfactant treatment, 199 mold assay, 49 Phosphorescence quenching tryptophan, 309 Photoacoustic spectroscopy absorption biological tissues, 375 stratum comeurn hydration, 9 Photography tinsability soap, detergent, 89 Photomicrography emulsion stability analysis, 329 Physiochemical properties beta glycyrrhizin, alpha-glycyrrhizins, 177 pKa aminoindamine dyes stability, I Plantar callus water flux in vitro, 9 Plaque toothpaste cleaning, 211 Plasticisation stratum corneum 2- hydroxyoctanoic acid, 397 P-nitrophenyl phosphate stratum corneum acid phosphatase activity, 387 Polishing value enamel roughness dentrifice treatment, 211 Poloxamer gel formulation component antiperspirant, 225 oral rinse formulation sanguinarine analysis, 279 Polydimethylsiloxane human skin quantification of, 73 membranes percutaneous absorption, 429 Polyethylene glycol effect on benzocaine permeation, 429 Polymers fibers dyestuff concentration, 59 influence on emulsion stability, 329 physical properties in personal care products, 73 Polysaccharide xanthan gum, 329 Polysorbate cosmetic base formulation skin penetration, 249 oral rinse composition sanguinarine analysis, 279 Pomade hair treatment assembly characteristics, 141, manageability, 489 Pore patterns sebaceous secretion, 369 Potassium mold assay, 49 soap composition lauryl sulfate, 89, tallowate, cocoate, 99 Potassium ferricyanide indo dye preparation, 1 Potassium persulfate bleaching treatment, 141 P-phenylenediamine coupling reaction, 1 Preservatives cosmetic efficacy, 481 mold assay benzoic acid, sorbic acid, methyl paraben, alcohols, glycols, 49 soap composition, 99 Primary intermediate N,N-bis-(2-hydroxy- ethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 1 Prism skin contact using infrared spectroscopy Ge, ZnSe, 73 Proline in melanin granules, 159 Propylene glycol cosmetic base formulation skin penetration, 249 effect on benzocaine permeation, 429 hair reduction, 461 Propylparaben emulsion component stabilization, 329 solvent permeability polydimethylsiloxane membrane, 429 Propyl-p-hydroxylbenzoate reagent emulsion stabilization, 329 Proteins cleansing bar evaluation skin surface adsorption, 309 denaturation skin irritancy, 387 pellicles, 21 l structure effects of hair bleaching, 159 substrates surfactant swelling, 199 Pseudomonas preservative activity cosmetic products, 481 Pseudomonas aeruginosa mold assay, 49 Psoriasis transepidermal water loss, 9 Psychographic sensory segmentation fragrance preference, 233 Qualitative percutaneous skin absorption transcellular intracellular, appendageal, 249, vs. transepidermal water loss, 351 skin surface analysis attenuated total reflectance, 73 Quantitative combing force, work, 141, style arrangement manageability, 489 gums stabilization of oil-in-water emulsions, 329 methodology swelling, 199 polydimethylsiloxane human skin, 73 sorption anionic surfactants at skin surface, 309 water content stratum corneum, 9 Quaternaries preservative in mold assay, 49 Quaternary ammonium salts in cosmetic products nitrosamine precursor, 267 Radioactivity measurement liquid scintillation spectrometer, 199, 249, percutaneous absorption, 375