360 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE (a) 40 --- Water 35 -o- Ulmus extract ----T- Hyaluronic acid - 30 -v- 1,3-buthylene glycol (]J 25 0 20 0 :J 15 10 5 o o 3 6 9 12 15 18 21 Time (min) (b) 35 30 .-. 25 0 20 0 15 :J 10 ----e- Water -o- Ulmus extract 5 --T-- Hyaluronic acid --v- 1 ,3-buthylene glycol o o 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 Time (min) Figure 3. Moisturizing effect measured by Corneometer CM 825 of Ulrnus davidiana root extract solution (1 %) (a) and formulation containing 10% of Ulrnus davidiana root extract solution (1 %) (b). The data were collected five times from one person in a group of ten female volunteers and are expressed as mean values (± standard deviations) of five experiments.

U. DA VIDIANA EXTRACTS IN COSMETICS 361 Samples were prepared at various concentrations ranging from 0.1 % to 3%. Normal human fibroblast cells were treated with samples in the absence of 10% FBS for 4 h, after which the medium was changed. The cells were then incubated for an additional 20 h in the presence of 10% FBS. Ten microliters of thawed CCK-8 solution was added to each well. Plates were incubated for 4 h at the same incubator conditions, after which the absorbance was read at 450 nm with a reference wavelength of 600 nm. Cell viability was calculated as: Cell viability (%) = (OD4SO(sample ) / OD4SO(conrrol ) ) X 100 where OD 450(sample) is the absorbance at 450 nm of the treated cells and OD 45 o(concrol) is the absorbance at 450 nm of the negative control (non-treated cells). ANTI-INFLAMMATORY EFFECTS Anti-inflammatory effects were quantified by means of the ELISA method using com­ mercially available kits. 11-6 and 11-8 were detected using kits from Endogen (Woburn, MA), and PGE2 was detected with kits from Assay Design Inc. (Ann Arbor, Ml). RECOVERY OF PHOTO-INDUCED DAMAGE (13,14) Human fibroblast cells were distributed to 24-well tissue culture plates at a concentra­ tion of 2.5 x 105 cells/well in 500 µl of DMEM (Dulbecco's Modified Eagle's Medium) 120 100 80 - :.a 60 40 20 0 (a) (b) (c) (d) (e) (f) Figure 4. Cytotoxicity of U Imus davidiana root extract against human fibroblast cells: (a) control (b) 0.1 % (c) 0.5% (d) 1 % (e) 2% (f) 3%. The data are expressed as mean values (± standard deviations) of four experiments.