EFFECT OF BASE COMPONENTS ON OXIDATION HAIR DYES Table VIII Effect of Amphoteric Surfactants 433 Test a Max. Viscosity (cps) Drop-Movements (in.) Temp. After Adding H•O• Fresh Mix 30 Min Mix Final Rise Base pH (øC) Alone 5 Min 30 Min 5 Min 30 Min 5 Min 30 Min 1 9.9 2 30 975 1280 8.1 8.2 8.0 8.0 2 10.0 2 36 30 25 3.9 4.7 3.5 4.8 3 9.7 1 38 15 15 8.6 8.7 4.7 4.7 4 9.7 2 15 15 15 4.3 8.5 3.0 7.0 5 9.7 I 30 20 20 5.0 5.0 4.6 4.6 • 1. 2-Cocoyl-2-imidazolinium hydroxide 1-carboxyethyloxyethyl 1-carboxyethyl diso- dium salt at 15% (Miranol C2M-SF, Miranol Chem. Co., Irvington, N.J.). 2. 2-Heptadecenyl-2-imidazolinium hydroxide 1-(2-hydroxyethyl) 1-carboxyethyl so- dium salt at 15% (Miranol OM-SF, Miranol Chem. Co., Irvington, N.J.). 3. Partial sodium salt of N-lauryl •-imino dipropionic acid at 15% (Deriphat 160C, General Mills Inc., Kankakee, Ill.). 4. Coco amidopropyl betaine at 15% (Tegobetaine C, Goldschmidt Chem. Corp., New York, N. ¾.). 5. Control, water 15%. Above dye bases contain 75% of base solution//3, 10% isopropyl alcohol, 15% amphoteric surfactant plus 5% water. Table IX Effect of Tertiary Fatty Amines Max. Viscosity (cps) Drop-Movements (in.) Temp. After Adding H•O•. Fresh Mix 30 Min Mix Final Rise Base Test • pH (øC) Alone 5 Min 30 Min 5 Min 30 Min 5 Min 30 Min 97 99 97 97 94 97 2 52 820 1032 O. 3 1.1 0.9 2.5 1 22 58 60 4.1 5.8 6.7 10.0 2 62 1820 2400 1.7 5.3 3.1 7.4 I 23 40 36 3.9 7.6 2.7 3.9 2 72 377 395 2.5 7.8 2.8 6.5 I 30 20 20 5.0 5.0 4.6 4.6 • 1. Bis-2-hydroxyethyl soybean amine at 15% (Ethomeen S-12, Armour Industrial Chemical Co., Chicago, Ill.). 2. Bis-2-hydroxyethyl soybean amine at 7.5% (Ethomeen S-12, Armour Industrial Chemical Co., Chicago, Ill.). 3. Bis-2-hydroxyethyl stearyl amine at 15% (Ethomeen 18/12, Armour Industrial Chemical Co., Chicago, Ill.). 4. Bis-2-hydroxyethyl stearyl amine at 7.5% (Ethomeen 18/12, Armour Industrial Chemical Co., Chicago, Ill.). 5. 2-Hydroxyethyl 3-Hydroxyethyl soybean amine at 15% (Ethomeen S-15, Armour Industrial Chemical Co., Chicago, Ill.). 6. Control, water 15%. All dye bases above contain 70% base solution #1, the stated amount of tertiary amine type cationic surfactant, plus water q.s. to 100•o.

434 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS free fatty acid, distribution curve of ethylene oxide content, and other factors which were found to affect greatly the properties being measured. It will be noted immediately from inspection of Table IV that all the 2:1 diethanolamides produced a 4 øC temperature rise during the test period, whereas all the 1:1 diethanolamides gave temperature rises of only 1-2 øC. The only monoethanolamide tested produced a tempera- ture rise of 3 øC. This effect may be related to the amount of free amine present it was investigated in considerably greater detail later (Table XIII) as a result of this initial observation. The "final" pH (after mixing the dye base with peroxide) did not vary significantly from one amide to another. The 2:1 coconut di- ethanolamide (#1) produced almost no viscosity increase compared to Table X Effect of Quaternary Ammonium-Type Cationic Surfactants Max. Viscosity (cps) Drop-Move•nents (in.) Temp. (After Adding H202) Fresh Mix 30 Min Mix Final Rise Base Test a pH (øC) Alone 5 Min 30 Min 5 Min 30 Min 5 Min 30 Min 1 9.5 2 30 860 980 1.0 2 9.6 1 20 36 50 3.8 3 9.8 2 35 2060 2580 0.4 4 9.7 0 20 300 320 6.2 5 9.4 I 30 320 448 1.5 6 9.7 I 26 40 250 5.0 7 9.6 i 32 1280 1340 3.3 8 9.4 I 36 1520 1472 0.2 9 9.7 I 10 5 10 5.1 10 9.7 I 30 20 20 5.0 2.1 71 05 77 3 1 62 56 10 54 30 0.8 0.9 5.6 6.6 0.2 0.3 6.7 7.2 1.6 3.7 4.1 4.9 2.2 5.6 1.0 2.0 3.2 3.6 4.6 4.6 a 1. Stearyl methyl bis-2-hydroxyethyl ammonium chloride at 15% (Ethoquad 18/12, Armour Industrial Chemical Co., Chicago, Ill.). 2. Stearyl methyl bis-2-hydroxyethyl ammonium chloride at 7.5% (Ethoquad 18/12, Armour Industrial Chem. Co., Chicago, Ill.). 3. Dimethyl distearyl ammonium chloride at 15% (Arquad 2HT, Armour Industrial Chem. Co., Chicago, Ill.). 4. Dimethyl distearyl ammonium chloride at 7.5% (Arquad 2HT, Armour Industrial Chem. Co., Chicago, Ill.). 5. Stearyl quaternary imidazoline at 15% (Sole-onic QS-80, Hodag, Chicago, Ill.). 6. Dimethyl distearyl ammonium lanolate at 15% (Quaterlan (experimental), Amer. Cholesterol, Edison, N.J.). 7. Dimethyl cetyl benzyl ammonium chloride at 15% (Cetol, Fine Organics, Lodi, N.J.). 8. Cetyl pyridinium chloride at 15% (Fine Organics, Lodi, N.J.). 9. Cetyl pyridnium chloride at 7.5% (Fine Organics, Lodi, N.J.). 10. Control, water. All dye bases contained 70% of base solution #1, the stated amount of quaternary ammo- nium type surfactant, plus water q.s. to 100%.