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J. Cosmet. Sci., 62, 259–264 (March/April 2011) 259 From conditioning shampoo to nanomechanics and haptics of human hair CLAUDIA WOOD, ALBERT BUDIMAN SUGIHARTO, EVA MAX, and ANDREAS FERY, BASF SE (C.W., A.B.S.), and University of Bayreuth, Physical Chemistry II (E.M., A.F.), Germany. Synopsis Shampoo treatment and hair conditioning have a direct impact on our wellbeing via properties like combabil- ity and haptic perception of hair. Therefore, systematic investigations leading to quality improvement of hair care products are of major interest. The aim of our work is a better understanding of complex testing and the correlation with quantitative parameters. The motivation for the development of physical testing methods for hair feel relates to the fact that an ingredient supplier like BASF can only fi nd new, so far not yet toxico- logically approved chemistries for hair cosmetics, if an in-vitro method exists. In this work, the effects of different shampoo treatments with conditioning polymers are investigated. The employed physical test method, dry friction measurements and AFM observe friction phenomena on a mac- roscopic as well as on a nanoscale directly on hair. They are an approach to complement sensoric evaluation with an objective in-vitro method. INTRODUCTION Haptics refer to the tactile sense: External objects or forces are noticed at contact with the body, esp. with hands and fi ngertips. In the skin, there are cutaneous sensual organs with tactile receptors. Their density is highest at the tip of the tounge and of the fi n- gers, which enables to differentiate fi ne structures. The skin on the back has the lowest density of tactile receptors. Tactile quality is noticed and evaluated in sensory assess- ments, where it can be distinguished with expressions like “luxury of touching soft, fl owing hair”. Many hair cosmetic products such as shampoos, conditioning rinses and even hair sprays claim haptic attributes on their packaging like the suppleness of silk, cashmere, and vel- vet or claim attributes like smooth, sleek, silky, and soft. METHODS AND RESULTS In BASF’s application lab, the sensoric or subjective evaluation of hair after various treat- ments is according to a ranking system: “hand mark” of 1=very good to 3=weak, bad. Different attributes of wet and dry hair are ranked as follows:
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