256 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS obtained in the irradiated cultures and the inhibition induced by 5-MOP was significantly greater than that of 8-MOP. The Concentration of 5-MOP in Perfumes. The 5-MOP content of a total of 108 perfumes was determined. Taking YSL toilet water as an example, the killing zones ob- tained with 5/xl of 0.25, 0.5 and ! % bergamot oil and a similar volume of YSL toilet water are shown in Figure 5. It is noted that the clear zone obtained with YSL toilet water is slightly smaller than that of 1% bergamot oil. To determine, therefore, the exact concentration of bergamot oil in this toilet water the experiment was repeated us- ing 5 /xl of 0.5, 0.75 and 1% bergamot oil and the toilet water. The clear zone produced by the toilet water was greater than that of 0.75 % and less than that obtained with ! % bergamot oil, indicating that YSL toilet water contains 0.75 to 1% bergamot oil. The concentration of 5-MOP would therefore be 0.00203 to 0.00270 g%. A similar approach was used in the determination of the concentration of bergamot oil in the remaining perfumes. The test was most accurate when quantities of bergamot oil smaller than 0.1/xl (0.27/xg 5-MOP) per TLC spot were used. Normal growth was ob- tained in all control plates. The 5-MOP content of a total 108 perfumes tested is shown in Table IV. The concentrations ranged from 0.00004 to 0.01080% (0.016 to 4% Table IV The 5-MOP Content of Random Samples of Perfumes as Determined By the Candida Albicans Phototoxicity Test and the Estimated Bergamot Oil Equivalent Based Upon a 5-MOP Concentration of 0.27 g/100 ml Bergamot Oil (Coty) Manufacturer Perfume Estimated Bergamot Equivalent Based Upon 0.27 g]100 ml 5-MOP (ml/100 ml) Estimated 5-MOP Concentration (g/100 ml) Avon Charisma Cologne Deep Woods Aftershave Elegance Cologne Field Flowers Cologne FleurD'Avon Cologne Nearness Cologne New World Aftershave Oland Aftershave Promise of Heaven Cologne Roses Roses Cologne Tai Winds Aftershave Unforgetable Cologne Wind jammer Aftershave Balenciaga Ho Hang Toilet Water Le Dix de Balenciaga Quadrille Perfume Balmain Miss Balmain Perfume Boots Boots 7 IF Cologne Jade East Aftershave Caron Bellodgia Perfume Caryen Variation Perfume Chanel Chanel Aftershave Chanel 5 Cologne Chanel 5 Perfume Chanel 19 Perfume 0.062 to 0.125 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0.016 0 0.016 0.016 4 0.25 to 0.5 0.5 O.25 0 O.25 0 O.75 0.016 0.125 to 0.25 0.00017 to 0.00034 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0.00004 0 0.00004 0.00004 0.0108 0.00068 to 0.00135 0.00135 O. OOO68 0 O. OOO68 0 0.00203 0.00004 0.00034 to 0.00068 (Continued on Page 257.)

QUANTITATIVE ANALYSIS OF BERGAPTEN 257 Table IV (Continued) Manufacturer Perfume Estimated Bergamot Equivalent Based Upon 0.27 g/100 ml 5-MOP (ml/100 ml) Estimated 5-MOP Concentration (g/100 ml) Charles of the Ritz Christian Dior Coty Cussons Cyclax D'Albert-Orlane Dana Dorothy Gray Elizabeth Arden Estee Lauder Eyelure Faberge' Le Gallion Germain Montel Givenchy Guerlain Guy Laroche Helen Rubenstein Hermes Houbigant Lancome Lanvin Lenthric Leonard Max Factor Molyneux Nina Ricci Ritual Cologne Ritz Perfume Diorescence Toilet Water Eau Sauvage Toilet Water Miss Dior Cologne Miss Dior Toilet Water Complice Cologne Imprevu Perfume Masumi Parfum de Toilet Imperial Lather After Shave Joie Vivre Cologne Vivaldi Cologne Casaque Cologne Canoe Cologne Canoe Aftershave Canoe Toilet Water Tabu Toilet Water Mon Secret Toilet Water Blue Grass Toilet Water Alliage Perfume Estee Perfume Youth Dew Perfume Tabac Aftershave Brut Aftershave Brut 33 Splash-On Lotion Brut Toilet Water Faberge' West After Shave Sortilege Parfum de Toilet Royal Secret Spray Perfume Royal Secret Cologne Givenchy 3 Toilet Water Le De Givenchy Toilet Water Givenchy Gentleman L'Interdit Toilet Water Mitsouko Toilet Water Drakkar Toilet Water Apple Blossom Toilet Water Courant Toilet Water Heavensent Toilet Water Caleche Parfum de Toilet Cal•che Perfume Chantilly Cologne Quelques Fleurs perfume Magie Perfume Eau Arp•ge Onyx Aftershave Fashion de Leonard Perfume Citrus Music Aftershave F•te Perfume Farouche Perfume L'Air du Temps Toilet Water 0.25 0.25 to 0.5 0.25 to 0.5 0.75 to 0.1 0.062 to 0.125 0.25 0 0.5 0.062 to 0.125 0 0.125 to 0.25 0.5 to 0.75 0 0.062 to 0.125 0.062 to 0.125 0.062 to 0.125 0.125 0 0 0.25 to 0.5 0 0.031 to 0.062 0 0.25 0.125 to 0.25 0.5 0.125 to 0.25 0 1.5 1 0 0.016 to 0.031 0 0.031 to 0.062 1 0.125 to 0.25 0 0 0.125 O.75 lto 1.5 0 0.031 0.016 to 0.031 0 0 0.125 to 0.25 0 0 0.125 0.031 to 0.062 0.00068 0.00068 to 0.00135 0.00068 to 0.00135 0.00203 to 0.00270 0.00017 to 0.00034 O.OOO68 0 0.00135 0.00017 to 0.00034 0 0.00034 to 0.00068 0.00135 to 0.00203 0 0.00017 to 0.00034 0.00017 to 0.00034 0.00017 to 0.00034 0.00034 0 0 0.00068 to 0.00135 0 0.00008 to 0.00017 0 O.OOO68 0.00034 to 0.00068 0.00135 0.00034 to 0.00068 0 0.00405 0.00270 0 0.00004 to 0.00008 0 0.00008 to 0.00017 0.00270 0.00034 to 0.00068 0 0 0.00034 0.00203 0.00270 to 0.00405 0 0.00008 0.00004 to 0.00008 0 0 0.00034 to 0.00068 0 0 0.00034 0.00008 to 0.00017 (Continued on Page 258.)