QUANTITATIVE ANALYSIS OF BERGAPTEN 257 Table IV (Continued) Manufacturer Perfume Estimated Bergamot Equivalent Based Upon 0.27 g/100 ml 5-MOP (ml/100 ml) Estimated 5-MOP Concentration (g/100 ml) Charles of the Ritz Christian Dior Coty Cussons Cyclax D'Albert-Orlane Dana Dorothy Gray Elizabeth Arden Estee Lauder Eyelure Faberge' Le Gallion Germain Montel Givenchy Guerlain Guy Laroche Helen Rubenstein Hermes Houbigant Lancome Lanvin Lenthric Leonard Max Factor Molyneux Nina Ricci Ritual Cologne Ritz Perfume Diorescence Toilet Water Eau Sauvage Toilet Water Miss Dior Cologne Miss Dior Toilet Water Complice Cologne Imprevu Perfume Masumi Parfum de Toilet Imperial Lather After Shave Joie Vivre Cologne Vivaldi Cologne Casaque Cologne Canoe Cologne Canoe Aftershave Canoe Toilet Water Tabu Toilet Water Mon Secret Toilet Water Blue Grass Toilet Water Alliage Perfume Estee Perfume Youth Dew Perfume Tabac Aftershave Brut Aftershave Brut 33 Splash-On Lotion Brut Toilet Water Faberge' West After Shave Sortilege Parfum de Toilet Royal Secret Spray Perfume Royal Secret Cologne Givenchy 3 Toilet Water Le De Givenchy Toilet Water Givenchy Gentleman L'Interdit Toilet Water Mitsouko Toilet Water Drakkar Toilet Water Apple Blossom Toilet Water Courant Toilet Water Heavensent Toilet Water Caleche Parfum de Toilet Cal•che Perfume Chantilly Cologne Quelques Fleurs perfume Magie Perfume Eau Arp•ge Onyx Aftershave Fashion de Leonard Perfume Citrus Music Aftershave F•te Perfume Farouche Perfume L'Air du Temps Toilet Water 0.25 0.25 to 0.5 0.25 to 0.5 0.75 to 0.1 0.062 to 0.125 0.25 0 0.5 0.062 to 0.125 0 0.125 to 0.25 0.5 to 0.75 0 0.062 to 0.125 0.062 to 0.125 0.062 to 0.125 0.125 0 0 0.25 to 0.5 0 0.031 to 0.062 0 0.25 0.125 to 0.25 0.5 0.125 to 0.25 0 1.5 1 0 0.016 to 0.031 0 0.031 to 0.062 1 0.125 to 0.25 0 0 0.125 O.75 lto 1.5 0 0.031 0.016 to 0.031 0 0 0.125 to 0.25 0 0 0.125 0.031 to 0.062 0.00068 0.00068 to 0.00135 0.00068 to 0.00135 0.00203 to 0.00270 0.00017 to 0.00034 O.OOO68 0 0.00135 0.00017 to 0.00034 0 0.00034 to 0.00068 0.00135 to 0.00203 0 0.00017 to 0.00034 0.00017 to 0.00034 0.00017 to 0.00034 0.00034 0 0 0.00068 to 0.00135 0 0.00008 to 0.00017 0 O.OOO68 0.00034 to 0.00068 0.00135 0.00034 to 0.00068 0 0.00405 0.00270 0 0.00004 to 0.00008 0 0.00008 to 0.00017 0.00270 0.00034 to 0.00068 0 0 0.00034 0.00203 0.00270 to 0.00405 0 0.00008 0.00004 to 0.00008 0 0 0.00034 to 0.00068 0 0 0.00034 0.00008 to 0.00017 (Continued on Page 258.)

258 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Table IV (Continued) Manufacturer Perfume Estimated Bergamot Equivalent Based Upon 0.27 g/100 ml 5-MOP (ml/100 ml) Estimated 5-MOP Concentration (g/1 O0 ml) Paco Rabanne Prince Matchabelli Puig Revlon Rochas Shulton Vanda Vidal Yardley Yves Saint Laurent (Y.S.L.) Calandre Perfume 0.5 0.00 ! 35 Paco Rabanne Toilet Water 0.062 0.00017 Cachet Cologne 0 0 Wing Song Toilet Water 0 0 Aqua Brava Aftershave 0.016 0.00004 Puig Aftershave 0.0 ! 6 0.00004 Aquamarine Toilet Water 0 0 Charlie Cologne 0.0 ! 6 0.00004 Intimate Toilet Water 0.016 0.00004 Audace Perfume 2 to 2.5 0.00540 to 0.00675 Eau de Rochas 1 0.00270 Femme Cologne 0.125 0.00034 Femme Toilet Water 0. ! 25 0.00034 Femme Perfume ! to 1.5 0.00270 to 0.00405 Madame Rochas Parfum 0.031 to 0.062 0.00008 to 0.00017 de Toilet Monsieur Rochas Cologne 0.031 to 0.062 0.00008 to 0.00017 Old Spice Aftershave 0.03 ! 0.00008 Si Jolie Cologne 0.016 0.00004 Pino Sylvestre Cologne 0.75 to ! 0.00203 to 0.00270 Bond Street Cologne 0.25 to 0.5 0.00068 to 0.00135 Caprice Cologne 0 0 Cougar Aftershave 0.016 0.00004 Flair Cologne 0.125 to 0.25 0.00034 to 0.00068 Khadine Cologne 0.062 0.000 ! 7 Reverie Cologne 0.016 0.00004 Sea Jade Cologne 0 0 Shanida Cologne 0. ! 25 0.00034 Rive Gauche Cologne 0.125 0.00034 Y.S.L. After shave 0.75 to 1 0.00203 to 0.00270 Y.S.L. Toilet Water (Males) 0.75 to 1 0.00203 to 0.00270 Y.S.L. Toilet Water (Females) 0.062 to 0.125 0.00017 to 0.00034 Y.S.L. Perfume 0.25 to 0.5 0.00068 to 0.00135 bergamot oil). It was impossible to predict the presence or absence of 5-MOP from the price, kind or manufacturer of the perfume. Recovery experiments. As shown in Table IV, the concentration of 5-MOP in Paco Rabanne toilet water and Agua Brava aftershave, as determined by the C. a/bicans test, was 0.00017 and 0.00004% respectively, whereas Caprice cologne and Wind Song toilet water did not contain any 5-MOP. Following the addition of a known quantity of bergamot oil and using the same test, the concentration of 5-MOP in the resultant solu- tions was shown to be approximately 0.00135%. The recovery of bergamot oil from these perfumes was, therefore, virtually complete. Of the four resultant solutions, only Agua Brava aftershave had a TLC pattern similar to that of bergamot oil and Group A perfumes. The TLC pattern of Paco Rabanne toilet water, Caprice cologne and Wind Song toilet water was similar to that of Group B perfumes, which showed a poor separation of 5-MOP from the adjacent TLC bands. This was further confirmed by spectrophotometry where the absorption spectrum of the 5-MOP band of Agua Brava