490 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS assembly properties such as combing/brushing of hair, lack of style retention (during styling and reshaping), and the phenomenon of flyaway hair are all components of hair manageability. We have recently conducted a consumer survey that confirms that these three assembly properties are strongly associated with manageability (Table I). Ninety-nine percent of the panelists of this survey indicated that one or more of the above hair assembly properties are relevant to manageability. Fifty-two percent indi- cated that all three of the hair assembly properties are relevant to manageability, 37 percent indicated that only two are relevant, while 10 percent believed that only one of these properties is relevant to the manageability of hair. This survey shows that these three different hair assembly properties are all relevant to manageability, but that manageability is perceived differently by different persons. Therefore, we conclude that manageability is too complex to measure by any single procedure, and we recommend defining three types of manageability based on the above component hair assembly properties: style arrangement manageability (essentially combing/brushing ease), style retention manageability (retention of a style during styling), and flyaway hair manageability (static flyaway). We selected this terminology for the following reasons. Style arrangement manage- ability is used instead of combing ease because it includes other hair arrangement oper- ations such as brushing, picking, etc. Style retention manageability is used instead of style or set retention to clearly indicate that our concern is with the retention of style during the styling or managing process. The term "flyaway hair manageability" was considered as a separate category because a large number of consumers (in our survey) considered static flyaway to be important to managing their hair. Therefore, for any Table I Results of Manageability Survey on Women (N = 100 women) Question More Less Not Manageable Manageable Relevant X 2' 1. If you apply a treatment to your hair that produces less static flyaway, does it make your hair ................ 71 2. If you apply a treatment to your hair that helps your hair to stay in place better, does it make your hair ............ 71 3. If you apply a treatment to your hair and it makes your hair comb easier, does it make your hair ................ 70 Conclusions: 12 17 64.2 16 13 64.0 9 21 62.7 © These three properties are all strongly associated with manageability. © Easier combing, less flyaway, and keeping hair in place are all related to improving manageability. * Responses all significantly different from that expected by random chance.

HAIR MANAGEABILITY 491 definition of manageability to have relevance to consumers' perception, flyaway must be considered. HAIR TYPE, HAIR STYLE AND MANAGEABILITY Since manageability is concerned with styling hair, the desired hair style is critical to its assessment. Of equal importance is "hair type" and its relationship to the desired hair style. The following parameters are associated with hair type and have been adapted from a discussion of hair body by Hough, Huey, and Tolgyesi (3): ß hair curvature or configuration (kinky/wavy/straight) ß hair texture (coarse/medium/fine) ß hair density on scalp (thick/medium/thin) ß fiber stiffness ß fiber-fiber interactions (friction/adhesion) ß fiber length: average length (long/medium/short) variation in length ß oiliness/dryness ß fiber chargeability during combing/brushing Hair styles may also be described by parameters related to several of the above hair type parameters, including: ß degree of curliness ß fullness ß hair length ß type of cut Curvature of a hair type is obviously associated with the degree of curliness of a hair style and is perhaps the most important of these parameters. The degree of curliness of a hair style helps to govern the type and extent of fiber contacts. Hair curvature, texture, hair density on the scalp, fiber interactions, and fiber stiffness all contribute to fullness of the assembly, or hair body (3). Fiber length is related to both hair length and the type of cut. Average fiber length corresponds to hair length and fiber length variation to the type of cut, e.g., layered cut vs one length, etc. Since these latter parameters, fiber length, hair length variation, and type of cut are not controlled by cosmetic treatments, they will not be discussed further. Because of individual consumers' desires there is no completely objective means to de- termine the type of manageability most desirable for each individual. We believe, how- ever, that the following scheme provides a relatively reliable means to relate manage- ability to hair type and style. If one considers the ease of managing hair in terms of the type of hair and the desired sty]e, three situations arise: ß hair type matches or relates to style, ß hair type does not match style, and ß flyaway hair. Hair type matches style. In general, manageability problems are minimized when all hair type attributes are consistent with the desired style, i.e., if the curvature, texture, hair density on the scalp, fiber interactions, stiffness, and length are consistent with the